Inisheer Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Hello everybody. I finally started my project (I'll start a progress thread soon) and just glued my maple top together. It is 1/4" thick, and I used the method from Hiscock's book. But when I glued it up, it was slightly crooked and I wanted it to be lined up perfectly. So I quickly took it apart and stuck it back together. That only took about 5 seconds, but some glue seeped out and there wasn't as much the second time I stuck the sides together. Now there the line down the middle is very visible. Does this look bad to you guys? Would it still work and be strong enough, or am I just being paranoid? Here is a picture that shows the line at the bottom of the front. And here are more pictures of the back and front. Does this look good enough to use for my first build? Any comments would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Hard to tell from a picture whether its good or not. The back definitibely looks like the two pieces were not jointed before glueup. The front looks better aside from the bottom part. For a natural top, there should be NO visible gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I see the line you mean at the bottom, but really, that gap isn't worth the trouble of chasing after and regluing, I'd just proceed straight forward with it and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexVDL Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 In practice both back and front glue lines should be straight and tight. The two boards should also be level and flat across the glue lines. But I can't see a problem if the back is a little wider than it should be so long as the joint is still solid. Its going to be covered anyway. Your main issue is ensuring that the front face is near perfection. I say forge ahead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desopolis Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I did the same thing when I tried using a hand plain to joint my two pieces of swamp ash. said screw it, but then I went to a cabinet makers.. we cut it in half, used a jointer, and blam.. you cant even see the line. in fact, I have to draw a line in pencil just to see the centerline.. Id cut it in half and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inisheer Posted November 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 The glueline on the back looks like a horrible gap the whole length. I would saw it back to 2 pieces, plane and square the sides perfectly and try glueing again.Actually when I got it, it was planed and even......I don't know what I did to make it look that bad. I see the line you mean at the bottom, but really, that gap isn't worth the trouble of chasing after and regluing, I'd just proceed straight forward with it and have fun.Thanks, I think that's what I'll do. This is my first build, so it is a learning process, and I just wanted to make sure it would work. I'll just avoid the bottom part of the front where the line is. Thanks everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I would re-do the joint. If nothing else it will always bother you when you look at it. Take your time before you glue. Do a clean dry fit to make sure everything looks good. You can even run through the motions of clamping to make sure the process will flow smooth, and you have everything you need. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 maybe it was your method? im fammiliar with melvyns books, but i cant remember his method for tops; id assume it was done with pipe clamps; i find with clamps there is too much pressure, which, if something is not lined propperly, one of the boards will slip or buckle; i make sure their tottally squared and only use run of the mill masking tape; its perfect for very brittle buckeye and other styro foam woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 I would redo it. If you end up sanding too much from the top, eventually, the gap on the back will start to show through as you get coser to the back. It will be a learning experience for you to repair it. Do it now while it is not attacjed to anything. I like to use a straight piece of oak (those 1" thick pieces from the local wood supplier), and glue sandpaper to the straight edge and use that for truing the edge. Wide strightedges with self-adhesive sandpaper work too. I like Irving Sloane's book Acoustic Guitar Construction for using simple tools. Sometimes, they are the best, and the easiest too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inisheer Posted November 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 would redo it. If you end up sanding too much from the top, eventually, the gap on the back will start to show through as you get coser to the back. It will be a learning experience for you to repair it. Do it now while it is not attacjed to anything. Thanks for the concern, but it is a little too late. I decided to listen to Drak and went ahead with gluing it to the rest of the body already. I know it would have been a good learning experience and if I ever have this problem during future projects I will try to fix it then. Thanks for the advice though, even doing it this way is a learning experience for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acousticraft Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 Unfortunately there is no substitute for edges that have been machine planed because they end up straight and square. I would never attempted guitar building if I did not have access to a thicknesser and buzzer. It is so quick and you end up with straight and perfect joints. Thats no consolation for those who plane everything by hand. Good luck with the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 (edited) Doing it by hand takes a lot of practice and finesse. Just rock your sanding block, plane , or whatever you're using to one side on one pass and you could blow a corner off like nothing. I've had good results with my sanding table and vertical fence tho. I do mine by killing 2 birds with one stone. I glue/clamp the tops and backs together first, then square the matching edges and then glue/clamp those together. Edited November 13, 2006 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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