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Open E Going Sharp?


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Hi All,

I'm having a problem where if I hit the low open E with any vigor, it will ring sharp for a bit. Also the string will oscillate wildly where if I hit the 1st fret F note it will be fine. I'm not sure if I'm hitting too hard or I'm not cutting the slot correctly. Have you ever seen a nut issue that will cause this problem? I just ordered a cheapo precut plastic nut, just to see what that does.

thanks,

al

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Pretty much all notes ring sharp on the attack, but settle down during the dwell. You'll notice this when using a tuner. It's entirely possible your nut is at fault though. Is there a lot of clearance above the first fret to the string when open? Are the slots wider than necessary? Do the slots slant backward marginally over the nut (a good thing)?

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Pretty much all notes ring sharp on the attack, but settle down during the dwell. You'll notice this when using a tuner. It's entirely possible your nut is at fault though. Is there a lot of clearance above the first fret to the string when open? Are the slots wider than necessary? Do the slots slant backward marginally over the nut (a good thing)?

Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty good at working on the guitar, I've done everthing from refinishing to refrets. But this E thing is driving me bonkers. I use serrated feeler guages up to the A string, but for the E string I use the back edge of a jigsaw blade that I serrated. The saw blade is .043" and I use a .042 E string. I do cut the slot at a slight back angle.

I think the problem is a combination of hitting the open E too hard and the nut. When I hit the open E, the string has a WIDE oscillation to hit where the F note won't. I have to figure why the fretted note has less oscillation. I suspect that the fretted note has the string muted a bit by the next fret where the open string has more clearance. I'm going to pull out the feeler guage to take some measurements. I also ordered a molded plastic nut, jut to compare my nut to it.

I'll keep ya updated,

al

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but for the E string I use the back edge of a jigsaw blade that I serrated

You're making a square hole for a round peg. I use those torch cleaning files that have a round profile and can be bought in any welding supply store. I suspect the leading edge of the nut slot for the Low E is not quite snug. As mentioned, the tool you used to cut the slot didn't have a round profile which makes for gaps where the string is supposed to rest. This causes strange things like buzzing, pinging and pitch changes while the string is vibrating. Depth of slot should be only half the string diameter and the leading edge of the slot should be sharp and in full contact with the string.

Edited by Southpa
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but for the E string I use the back edge of a jigsaw blade that I serrated

You're making a square hole for a round peg. I use those torch cleaning files that have a round profile and can be bought in any welding supply store. I suspect the leading edge of the nut slot for the Low E is not quite snug. As mentioned, the tool you used to cut the slot didn't have a round profile which makes for gaps where the string is supposed to rest. This causes strange things like buzzing, pinging and pitch changes while the string is vibrating. Depth of slot should be only half the string diameter and the leading edge of the slot should be sharp and in full contact with the string.

I did file a round profile to the back of the saw blade, so I think it's fine. I'm going to file some stock, install the string into the slot and look at it with a light behind it.

thanks,

al

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For some reason my original post hasn't appeared so I'll just type it again......

Lighter strings will be more prone to going sharp when hit hard as they're more flexible, maybe move up to a light top-heavy bottom set (9-46) or even go up to a full 10 set. I used to use 9's on my strat & 10's on 3-a-side headstocks but I've switched to 10's all round now & might even try 11's on my 24 3/4" when it's done....gulp!

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For some reason my original post hasn't appeared so I'll just type it again......

Lighter strings will be more prone to going sharp when hit hard as they're more flexible, maybe move up to a light top-heavy bottom set (9-46) or even go up to a full 10 set. I used to use 9's on my strat & 10's on 3-a-side headstocks but I've switched to 10's all round now & might even try 11's on my 24 3/4" when it's done....gulp!

I might give 10's a shot. How much of a back angle do you file the slot?

thanks,

al

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