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Turquoise Stain


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Decide what kind of stain you want to use (water, alcohol, metallic, etc)

Then buy yerself a container of blue and yellow.

Custom-mix them yourself until you get your desired shade of turquoise.

Start with a cup of blue and then add yellow to the blue in -very- small drops until you get where you want to be.

You are drifting from blue to green (blue+yellow=green) and the turquoise is just a few very small steps from blue on the way to full-on green.

Same thing for purple. Start with blue and add red in small doses until you get where you want to be...

Start with your stains full strength to find the desired tone of turquoise first.

Then, once you get the tone you want, start to dilute it down with the proper thinner (water for water-based stains, etc...) to get the SHADE you want. Sometimes full-strength is too strong and you want to tone it down to find the right shade of turquoise.

For flamed/quilted woods, I recommend either water-based or metallic (metallic dilutes with water too) these stains bring out the figure more (in my opinion anyway) than alcohol-based stains, at least on bare wood...

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would black stain look good on woods such as maple, bubinga, walnut and mahogany? lets just say a mild black stain, not too black but black enough. or is black a waste of time?


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Where o'where was that link from Scott R when I needed it? I have been mixing my own dyes all this time, and there it is..... Oh well...... At least it is available now.

If you still want to mix your own dyes, go for it. I would suggest a color wheel to help.

Guitar Ed

Advice worth what you paid for it. Nothing.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

The fast dry is oil based. The food color is water based. The poly is simply a base. The color integrity is fine, as far as I can tell....really good for grain enhancement. I dont think fast dry is use ful in this instance. You wipe on, wipe off sand, repeat, wipe on, wipe off, clear. However a poly topcoat will severly fade the color.

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