Daniel Sorbera Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 I'm repairing a Tobias bass that had it's headstock snapped off after it fell over on the stand. pic2 pic3 pic4 As you can see from the pictures things could have been much worse. But the joint seems to stick out a bit when pushed together by hand. I'm afraid that after I glue it together I'll have to sand to make everything flush, and I don't know if I'll be able to match the finish (it's some kind of oil finish). So what is your advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docbass Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 (edited) I'm repairing a Tobias bass that had it's headstock snapped off after it fell over on the stand. pic2 pic3 pic4 As you can see from the pictures things could have been much worse. But the joint seems to stick out a bit when pushed together by hand. I'm afraid that after I glue it together I'll have to sand to make everything flush, and I don't know if I'll be able to match the finish (it's some kind of oil finish). So what is your advice? First, be careful about pushing the pieces together until you're ready to glue it. It will go back together better with the help of some wood glue as lubricant. When rejoining, you might need to tap it very lightly with a small rubber mallet. I've done that and it's worked before. If the joint is raise, you might have to sand it back a bit. Second, you might want to put some matching maple strips (tenons) on either side of the headstock midline, in the back, to reinforce the repair. A lot of luthers recommend that technique if you're concerned about the repair stability. As for finish, I'm sure someone here or in the Guitar Refinishing forum knows that type of finsh Tobias used so you could touch it up. Those are my best suggestions. I hope someone else chimes in for you. Edited May 1, 2007 by docbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaden Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 could be tung oil used for the finish?? Gibson state that its a "hand rubbed finish" my preference for an oil finish is tung oil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 I'd recommend not splining it - you simply don't get the clamping pressure for a good glue joint when using splines, and you have to remove glue joint area from the repaired joint. Same goes for dowels. When reassembling the joint, look for any little splinters of fragments which can interfere with it going back together perfectly aligned - you may have to remove some 'hairy' sections to get it to fit cleanly. Do this *very* sparingly, and slide it together, and as Doc' says, tap it to final fit with a rubber mallet. For finish touchup, shellac will go over pretty much everything, and is a good way to even out areas which you need to sand. A light application, rubbed with fine steel wool may work to blend the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docbass Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) I'd recommend not splining it - you simply don't get the clamping pressure for a good glue joint when using splines, and you have to remove glue joint area from the repaired joint. Same goes for dowels. When reassembling the joint, look for any little splinters of fragments which can interfere with it going back together perfectly aligned - you may have to remove some 'hairy' sections to get it to fit cleanly. Do this *very* sparingly, and slide it together, and as Doc' says, tap it to final fit with a rubber mallet. For finish touchup, shellac will go over pretty much everything, and is a good way to even out areas which you need to sand. A light application, rubbed with fine steel wool may work to blend the repair. Good points and suggestions Setch. I don't use splines either, but I do know some folks do. I didn't use any splines or rods in this repair and it turned out very solid..... Your scraf joint tips are great too, been using them on my repairs and it works great! Edited May 2, 2007 by docbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyM Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 This is just an opinion for what that is worth. :-) It is hard to tell by the pix, but I think what wood you have there is pretty thin on both parts of the break. I'd reglue it and after it is dry, I'd rout some maple splines on the back side to add some support to the glue joint and to get some fresh unbroken wood in there on both sides of the truss rod, especially since you say it doesn't fit back together that perfectly now. Nice tight fitting splines will add some strength, but take away some of the esthetics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted May 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 It's all glued up and it's very strong. front I ended up having to sand a bit to make everything smooth so I had to touch up the finish. The color and sheen matches up perfectly, from the back you can't even tell there was any damage. But take a look at the front. I'm afraid to sand there because the logo is painted on. The wood seems to have been chipped at the very edge, so I'm not sure if sanding is even the answer. What do you think I should do about that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acousticraft Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 I just repaired a broken headstock on an acoustic for a friend and glued it with epoxy for max strength. I touched up the crack line with tinted lacquer with a tooth pick. It did hide the crack line mostly, but as I told him if he wanted a perfect job then it would have to be sanded, filled and re- lacquered which would take off the logo and be quite a job. It wasn't a expensive acoustic after all, but he was very happy to have it back again. The same would apply with your headstock. Without sanding back, filling and refinishing it is hard to hide a crack line like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 I gotta say it turned out rather well, more so on the back, but even the front isn't bad. I understand what you mean about the logo problem and I had a tough time deciding when I had a chip come out when making bigger holes for some sperzel tuners. For a split second my brain geeked and I ran this round file up through the hole up towards the face of the headstock instead of down and it popped a nice chip of the top. I was so close to being finished had 4 out of the 6 done and clean. I was able to get it glued in nicely, but I am going to sand it all back and myabe add a veneer not because I need to but because I want to for looks and for fun, maybe with some matching pup rings or something. So, good luck with that decision and again all in all I think the joint came out nice, it was also a really good idea to keep that little splinter that popped off. I was tolda few years ago if that happened that it's good to save every piece so that it fits back together as best it can. Good luck man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.