WAK Guitars Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 (edited) Hello The lacquer clear coat on this headstock had been curing for just over a month. Today I looked at it and noticed a chip ! I was wondering if the only option is to sand it down and start over or if there is an alternate route i could take to fixing the chip. Because it would be nice to have a finished guitar that has no chips! Time isn't really a factor but it might be nice to not have to wait another 1 or 2 months while i re-refinish it! The clear coat is lacquer and made by the ArmourCoat brand. Here are the pics (I outlined the chip in two of the pics): http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x26/WAKguitars/Chip3.jpg http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x26/WAKguitars/Chip2.jpg http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x26/WAKguitars/Chip1.jpg Any help is greatly appreciated! Edited June 10, 2007 by WAK Guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 drop fill with some lacquer - it may take quite a few applications because its quite large. that way will proabably take a while because the lacquer will shrink alot and need re applying, probably looking at a few weeks/months to be sure it wont sink deeper than the surrounding area. the quicker fix is to fill it with clear epoxy. When doing a fill like this it is best to slightly overfill the hole then scrape it back when its dry using a very sharp scraper till its very nearly level(razor blade or even glass slides from a science lab work well) Strip and re-finish is always on option on one of your own guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acousticraft Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Yes I would second the clear epoxy method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwood999 Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 both work great just take your time when doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-CB- Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 If you're using a nitrocellulose lacquer, then here's what I'd do. I'd get a sanding block, and sand the rear of the headstock with the chip.. but just on the chip end. I'd feather it as I went back towards the middle of the headstock. Use 320 grit paper there. Dont need to take it 100 percent to bare wood, just prelevel the finish to a great extent. Then shoot the end again with two or three coats, and level down again (can do this immediately as its a reverse from drop filling). Reshoot and level. When the bottom "rises up" to the point of being even, reshoot once more and let it sit for several weeks. You might need to relevel it one last time and reshoot it. But in this way, you're "bringing the bottom up and taking the top down at the same time, then adding more thickness. I was shown that by a custom car painter, and used it recently on an L6s top that had some screwholes that I plugged. Drop filling would have taken forever. Just be sure to use a sanding block (I use a rubber 3m one from Home Depot for this sort of thing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaintIt Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 If you're using a nitrocellulose lacquer, then here's what I'd do. I'd get a sanding block, and sand the rear of the headstock with the chip.. but just on the chip end. I'd feather it as I went back towards the middle of the headstock. Use 320 grit paper there. Dont need to take it 100 percent to bare wood, just prelevel the finish to a great extent. Then shoot the end again with two or three coats, and level down again (can do this immediately as its a reverse from drop filling). Reshoot and level. When the bottom "rises up" to the point of being even, reshoot once more and let it sit for several weeks. You might need to relevel it one last time and reshoot it. But in this way, you're "bringing the bottom up and taking the top down at the same time, then adding more thickness. I was shown that by a custom car painter, and used it recently on an L6s top that had some screwholes that I plugged. Drop filling would have taken forever. Just be sure to use a sanding block (I use a rubber 3m one from Home Depot for this sort of thing). I second this method whether it is nitro or uro. As for using epoxy I would be cautious since epoxy yellows from uv exposure. I work with a lot of Carbon Fiber and it will yellow if not Cleared with a good auto clear with uv protection or if it is raw carbon it can be protected with 303protectant that is a uv blocker for fabric, fiberglass, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 If using epoxy i would go for a high quality one like west systems, its a lot clearer and definately less yellow than most other epoxies i have used. It also smells less bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Lahti Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 drop fill with some lacquer - it may take quite a few applications because its quite large. that way will proabably take a while because the lacquer will shrink alot and need re applying, probably looking at a few weeks/months to be sure it wont sink deeper than the surrounding area. the quicker fix is to fill it with clear epoxy. When doing a fill like this it is best to slightly overfill the hole then scrape it back when its dry using a very sharp scraper till its very nearly level(razor blade or even glass slides from a science lab work well) Strip and re-finish is always on option on one of your own guitars Yes I would second the clear epoxy method. I would steer clear of using any different finish than the one you already have. Think long term...Lacquer will continue to cure and shrink over the life of your guitar. They will age differently too. In a number of years, that quick epoxy fix will stand out and look bad. Best thing to do is follow -CB-'s suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 I typically go the cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) method, and speed it up a little, by using a spray accelerator. Contrary to the above opinion, I've never had a problem, down the line, of a repair like this NOT staying blended in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 (edited) drop fill with some lacquer - Yes I would second the clear epoxy method. I would steer clear of using any different finish than the one you already have. Think long term...Lacquer will continue to cure and shrink over the life of your guitar. They will age differently too. In a number of years, that quick epoxy fix will stand out and look bad. Best thing to do is follow -CB-'s suggestion. +1 (drop fill lacquer) Edited October 24, 2007 by guitar2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Lahti Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 I typically go the cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) method, and speed it up a little, by using a spray accelerator. Contrary to the above opinion, I've never had a problem, down the line, of a repair like this NOT staying blended in. Any large repairs this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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