roswellj Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 You'll have to forgive me, I have no doubt this topic has been covered before but I have had a look and can't find anything. Here is the problem. I'm a complete noob at this stuff and thought I had sanded my body right down. Problem being when I applied the first few layers of primer I noticed some of the ruts in the grain coming though where I obviously hadn't sanded enough. No problem I thought as I continued. After quite a few layers of black paint It wont show and I can sand it out. Wrong the ruts are lower than the orriginal primer in some places so i have sanded back through to the primer with little black ruts. Anyway of filling this straight over the top of the paint and then starting fresh over that? I don't even know what to use to do this. Help would be muchly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 It will help the folks here if you tell what type of wood you were using, what your sanding procedure was and what finish you applied. All of those variables can be involved in the problem you are describing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roswellj Posted June 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 sorry. The wood is an ash. I was sanding the old fashioned way, by hand, and thought I had sanded properly. The body currently has a few layers of primer on it and a layer of black enamel paint on it (ok I know I'm being cheap). The problem lies in the fact that the paint is going into the grain marks and leaving it looking black with dips in the grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 sorry. The wood is an ash. I was sanding the old fashioned way, by hand, and thought I had sanded properly. The body currently has a few layers of primer on it and a layer of black enamel paint on it (ok I know I'm being cheap). The problem lies in the fact that the paint is going into the grain marks and leaving it looking black with dips in the grain. even if you dont use a grain filler, you should always use some kind of sealer. sealer prevents a finish from "soaking in" to the finish, what i am positive is happening to your body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwood999 Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 yup what killemall8 said sealer>>>>>>>>>> dont forget the sealer.EVER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roswellj Posted June 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 so how do i fix this? Strip back and start again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubab0y Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 if you want it to look good, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 I was under the impression that sealer isn't needed & can actually be detrimental as it is softer than any additional layers of finish to allow for easier sanding?...unless of course you use epoxy. Primer is designed to build quickly & should be used until the finish is flat before any paint is applied as the paint will naturally be thinner & take forever to fill any holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubab0y Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 yes, but the grain will raise with the primer if you don't do a sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 Sealer is a fast build clear coat. It is softer and has a higher solids content. It is softer so that it is easier to sand level, hence the usual name Sanding Sealer. The high solids is so you can get a fast build with it. With opened grained woods, you have 2 choices, use your clear coat or sanding sealer as a filler, in which case you need to spray A LOT of coats, with cure time in between (in the range of weeks of curing) and a lot of sanding back until the grain is filled. You will need to let it fully cure for a long time to make sure it doesn't shrink back anymore, which it probably will. Or you can use either oil based or water based grain filler or epoxy. This will fill in the open pores and give you a flat surface to begin working on. I would recomend absolutely going with the grain filler route. Ash has very open pores and will soak up paint, primer, sealer and finish coats like sponge. To get a flat smooth mirror finish, you want to sand it back to bare wood and use grain filler on it. Check out the finishing schedule on the Stew Mac website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 (edited) You really have to use grain filler on ash, otherwise you won't get a nice smooth finish. Most people go: grain filler-->S&S-->primer-->color-->clear CMA Edited June 18, 2007 by CrazyManAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roswellj Posted June 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 thanks heaps guys. After my last exam on friday I will have all the time in the world to sand it back to bare wood Until then I shall have to start working on either Medicinal Chemistry or Soldering the electrics together... I know which one I'm gonna end up doing... and it doesn't involve any drug names Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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