XcitR Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 This one may be common knowledge, but I found this easy to make jig for cutting a perfect fingerboard taper on your table saw. I haven't tried it yet, but it seems pretty self-explanitory: http://www.wellsguitars.com/Articles/Taper_Jig_Article.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 That's good thinking. Cool idea. I tend to just rough cut mine on the band saw, then take them down to final after they're attached to the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 I wouldnt trust a rip saw like that unless I was just cutting raw lumber. Nice idea, but I wouldn't let a blade like that within 1/8" of the wood I want to keep. Just couldn't trust it man. Would rather bandsaw, same as Rick500 and then rout using a template bit against a tapered neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XcitR Posted January 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I thought his blade looked a little rough... Rick500 or Prostheta, what about using something like an 80tooth blade for a smoother cut? You both glue the rough-sized fretboard to the neck first, then final size with a router once attached to the neck? Could you give me a little more info? This is my first fretboard, and I'm not sure of the best method for tapering, sizing, etc. I haven't found much in the tutorials, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 (edited) You could use a router without too much trouble if either the fretboard or the back of the neck were still flat and you had enough stable surface for the router to ride on. I used a sanding block and scraper to get my last one down to final size after it was attached. Edited January 22, 2008 by Rick500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I make a tapered template out of MDF, use it to trace onto the neck blank, rough-cut on the bandsaw just outside the line, attach the template (screws or double-stick 3M paper tape depending), then rout to the template with a template-following bit on a router table. When my straight bit wears out, I will switch to a spiral cut bit which I think will reduce the risk of tear-out. Oh yeah...I do all this AFTER I've routed out the truss rod channel while the neck blank was still square (also on the router table, straight bit with the neck blank against the fence). LOVE the router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XcitR Posted January 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I've got a pre-slotted, 16" radiused ebony board from LMI... beautiful board, but it is pre-radiused. What process here? Best to rough it close with the router, then bring it flush with a sanding block once attached? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Disclaimer: I've only built a few guitars and I don't pretend to be an expert. But I've followed the advice of many here on the forum and haven't screwed anything up too badly yet. I'm working on one right now where I have radiused and slotted the board. I did it like this: Milled the blank flat and square, a little oversize Radiused with my router jig Slotted Rough cut the taper at the band saw Next, I'll attach the fretboard to the neck (still square, but already tapered), then take the fretboard down to final shape with a file, sandpaper, and finally, a scraper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XcitR Posted January 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Thanks, Rick! That's what's great about this board, lots of experience to learn from. Guess I should add, I'm attaching this particular fretboard to an Ibanez Prestige neck as part of a refinishing project. Also, what is the best way to cut the fretboard for under the locking nut? I was planning on using a flat-cut router bit set to proper depth and cutting just prior to attaching to the neck. Sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I don't think the locking nut is screwed down to the fretboard, it is normally screwed down to the neck itself. So under normal circumstances, you'd just cut the end of the board off at the edge of the nut location (the bridge side of the nut). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
six_stringer Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 That small jig works great for cutting the taper on fingerboards. However, you need to make sure you use a high quality smooth cut carbide tipped blade that's still in good shape. Also, you have to have a table saw that has a long table (distance from the front of the table to the start of the blade) and fence. Some table saws have a short table so the fretboard would hang off of the front of the table and the fretboard would not rest against the fence the way the jig was designed. If you have a short table you can make a table/fence extention for that jig to work. I have used it on four or five fretboards and will continue to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcovis Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 I buy all my fingerboards from LMI already slotted and radiused. I just draw the taper with pencil, cut it close with my bandsaw, and then finalize the taper with my edge sander. It takes all of 5 minutes to do, but you obviously have to have an edge sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XcitR Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Unfortunately, I don't have an edge sander, but I'm going to try using the tablesaw with an 80 tooth blade... see how that works. Also going to try the jig using a router table and see between the two, which produces better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 I buy all my fingerboards from LMI already slotted and radiused. I just draw the taper with pencil, cut it close with my bandsaw, and then finalize the taper with my edge sander. It takes all of 5 minutes to do, but you obviously have to have an edge sander. Those are great for radiusing fingerboards too ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XcitR Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Just a follow-up for future reference... The Jig for tapering the fretboard worked GREAT! I used an 80 tooth, diamond-tipped blade set to about 7/16" cutting height, a featherboard along the rip fence, and cut really slow. Fretboard turned out great, very smooth cuts with no chipping, burning, etc. and the pre-cut fret slots remained unharmed. Excellent little jig! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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