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Black Walnut / Birdseye Maple Lapsteel Build


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Thanks Xanthus :D

It's tuned in kind of a hybrid C6 tuning I guess, something that the customer requested, from low to high - C-E-G-A-Bb-C-E-G

Its all Tru Oil, it took a bit of effort to build and fill the walnut, but it wasn't too bad.

This time around I tried some of their Tru Oil in a rattle can for the last couple finishing coats and it worked ok.

I've thinned Tru Oil with mineral spirits and shot it through my gun with good results.

Though, the rattle can stuff seems to dry / cure just a little bit faster.

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A beauty - I've been thinking about making a lap steel for a while now. Is 25" a standard scale length on these things? I know little to nothing about them. I take it a trussrod isn't needed on these builds?

Anything hiding under the left hand side plate, or is it just for symmetries sake? Is that white knob for east of tailpiece removal? (and how is that thing held on, anyway?

All in all, really gorgeous!

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Thanks j. pierce :D

25" would be considered a long scale, Asher uses a 25" scale too.

22.5" was / is more common, with vintage steels, but then the bulk of those were student models.

Though, many say the best sounding Fender Stringmaster was the 26" scale model.

Construction is pretty strait forward, no truss rod and no frets to level or dress.

Because of the way it is played, you have a bit more design freedom as compared to a fretted instrument.

Nothing under the left hand plate, just decoration.

The bridge cover is a 3 point mount.

There are two 1/4" dowel pins mounted forward in the cover that seat into shallow 1/4" holes in the body.

It is held in place with the maple knob that has a 8/32 brass shaft that mates with a threaded brass insert in the body.

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Thanks Tim :D

Tru Oil really does do a great job of bringing wood to life while offering a little more protection than a strait oil.

The fret markers are strips of .032 aluminum and the bezel surrounds on the paua is 9/32 aluminum tubing.

I didn't get a good pic of the inly on this one, but here is a pic of the same type inlay on a 6 string mahogany build.

.

tdrop26.jpg

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Awesome work! Love lap steels.... I've been trying to learn, but it's not as easy as you would think! Dobro-style tunings are one thing (Open G, Open D, DADGAD or whatnot) but more lap-oriented tunings like C6 are a different kettle of fish.

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Thanks GregP :D

I am just a hack player on steel but its such a ton of fun to play. I mostly stick with some open E or D as its a little more familiar territory for me.

But, the instrument itself is so versatile, it can do rhythm, lead, country, rock, blues, jazz, gospel, you name it.

Its really great to see it make it back into todays music a little more.

Here is a cool YouTube of a cover of Modern Love by Last Town Chorus

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This is a coincidence. I have been thinking about building a lap-steel. I broke my left arm and until I have my shoulder replaced, I can't reach the first 3 or 4 frets of a guitar, so I figured a lap steel would be fun. And I've been staring at a piece of walnut and some quilted maple for it. I'm just about finished with a bass that is quilted maple over walnut - the contrast of those two is just beautiful.

I'm in the process of re-doing a friends walnut rifle stock with Tru-Oil. I've put about 5 coats on now and wet-sanded 2 of them. It's starting to look real nice and certainly is easy to use.

Beautiful work by the way. Congratulations.

Marty

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  • 4 months later...
Thanks Old Rocker :D ... Looking forward to seeing your build :D

Look in the build forum, I started a thread with a couple of pics. B)

I couldn't find tru-oil at my local shop so I got some clear gloss poly instead. Also got foam brushes, painter's tape, sandpapers in 5 grits, gloves, and mineral spirits.

How'd I do there? Am I set?

Edited by Old Rocker
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