Make A Template Without A Template?

[guitarsnmotorcycles]

I'm building a body for my PRS CE-24 neck. I'd like to make a SG style body to drop my neck into but i don't have an actual template to go off of to cut out the SG style body. I do have a cheap SG knock off guitar that I could trace around on a piece of MDF board or Plexiglass. so I guess my question is, even though you have the outline to guide the cut, it would seem that unless someone was perfect in the cut that you would still not have a smooth cut, how do you then smooth out those rough spots and curves so everything looks smooth and even? hence... if you don't have a template to start with how do you make one from scratch? hope this makes sense. thanks.

[Geo]

My suggestion... cut it out with a jigsaw. You can follow the line exactly if you take it slow and watch it closely. Just clean it up with a sanding block.

[Prostheta]

Tracing onto MDF isn't a bad idea if you don't have many tools. Careful of the dust from that stuff though. It's not nice. If you don't have access to a pillar drill or bobbin sander to finish the edges, wrap sandpaper around a tin or an aerosol or whatever. Great for shaping up the edges alond with a flat faced sanding block.

MDF is a great way to make templates. You can make a thin 5mm template, then use a router with a template guiding bit to transfer the shape to something larger like 10-15mm MDF.

I'm a firm believer in spending a LOT of time on making good templates. The guitar will only ever be as good as the template you made it from.

[Bryan316]

...so I guess my question is, even though you have the outline to guide the cut, it would seem that unless someone was perfect in the cut that you would still not have a smooth cut, how do you then smooth out those rough spots and curves so everything looks smooth and even?

The same way any other luthier or builder here does it. Clean-up sanding! Really, it's not that much more complex. There's no real trick. Even my smoothest, steadiest cuts on either the bandsaw or with my router, has needed some cleanup sanding. It's just a few different grades of sandpaper, and some elbow grease. There's nothing more needed.

Invest in a good quality sanding block, and trust your eyes and your fingers. If you still feel irregularity or bumpiness, you need more sanding. And this goes even for your template! Think about it... even with a template, that template had to be cut out first, right? That means that template also needed some clean-up and some smoothing. And it's usually all done to the touch and by a careful eye.

No fancy tools or new-fangled power tools needed, really. Just some 80-grit up taking steps up through 220 grit, and you'll have baby-butt smoothness in an afternoon or two.

[zyonsdream]

just keep in mind, any slight bump or dip will show x-fold on a routed body edge. It's easier to clean up a template than it is a complete body. I don't just a template routing bit anymore due to tear out. I come very close to the final size and then sand the edges to where I'm happy.

[low end fuzz]

Tracing onto MDF isn't a bad idea if you don't have many tools. Careful of the dust from that stuff though. It's not nice. If you don't have access to a pillar drill or bobbin sander to finish the edges, wrap sandpaper around a tin or an aerosol or whatever. Great for shaping up the edges alond with a flat faced sanding block.

MDF is a great way to make templates. You can make a thin 5mm template, then use a router with a template guiding bit to transfer the shape to something larger like 10-15mm MDF.

I'm a firm believer in spending a LOT of time on making good templates. The guitar will only ever be as good as the template you made it from.

totally!!

even hardboard is great for preliminary template (to then transfer)

im sure i dont have to tell you; but for the ppl who will say "thats stupid, why not just make 1 and be done"

where i run (ran) into my biggest headaches was when you had a nice thick templtae and all was good routing your pickups and such, then you go to stick in the pups and something aint right; the small angle that unnoticably found its way into your template has turned your cavity into a wedge like effect, that is multiplied every pass you go beyond the template. one pass on roter from that template ensures the edge is as straigth as the bit, which should be good; if not your in real trouble.

[jaycee]

If your making a template from scratch ten you have to start with an outline drawn onto a piece of MDF for example.

Cut out the shape sand it fill in any faults.

When you are happy with it make a template from the one you have just made, which will be much better as you can use a router with a guide bit on it to cut the shape.

If your happy with that all well and good, if not make the needed adjustments on the 2nd template and repeat the process.

It may seem a little long winded but it is well worth the effort and experience you get from the process, not to mention a template thet can be used as often as you like.

[Prostheta]

Agreed. I now make my templates out of 10mm perspex, although I shape them by hand out of MDF first of all. The transfer from soft template to durable works really well.

[low end fuzz]

spreading leftover epoxy is a great way to stiffen up the mdf and use epoxy going to waste;

the plastic is better for transparacy (im guseeing its clear) but i just put a bunc of holes along the center line of my templates