Fixing Dents/dimples

[Burkeee]

My les paul copy had an unfortunate accident in its case the other day. The stupid lock key that I never use wiggled out of the pocket and did this.

Luckily its in a fairly unnoticeable place. Any advice on fixing this? I'm not certain, but I assume the finish is poly.

Thanks

Paul

[low end fuzz]

i dont know if theres any compatibility issuse; since the poly is tottaly cured;

but fill it with black stick laquer ,level and buff

[syxxstring]

The black resin candles they make for fixing skis and snowboards I've used for stuff like that on cheap guitars before. Your mileage may vary.

[foil1more]

How about a black epoxy like inlace?

[Foggy]

You might try black nail varnish. I use various lacquers and I've never had compatability issues when I've used nail varnish for minor repairs. Obviously it wouldn't be an as new repair and I'd always advise testing for any reactions with the original finish first, but if there are no issues, just apply it carefully to the damage and build it up layer by layer as it dries. Then very carefully level the repaired area with something like 1000 or 1200 grade wet and dry, then a cutting compound and finally polish it up.

I can't guarantee that this will work on your particular guitar, but I have used this method before on one of my sons guitars and it worked out really well.

Jim

Edited February 3, 2009 by Foggy

[Narcissism]

The black resin candles they make for fixing skis and snowboards I've used for stuff like that on cheap guitars before. Your mileage may vary.

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple.

Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO

[syxxstring]

The black resin candles they make for fixing skis and snowboards I've used for stuff like that on cheap guitars before. Your mileage may vary.

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple.

Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO

You hold it far enough away that the flame isn't touching the guitar. Not that hard to figure out really.

Plus with a poly finish not like a candles going to damage it unless your super careless. The flames when i've done it are really tiny.

I've fixed a few cheapies this way when I needed something quick and easy that would look okay.

Part of the reason I did this is many factory finishes are PTex resins. (per a friend who does a fair amount of work for Fender/Jackson/Charvel)

Edited February 4, 2009 by syxxstring

[Foggy]

The black resin candles they make for fixing skis and snowboards I've used for stuff like that on cheap guitars before. Your mileage may vary.

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple.

Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO

You hold it far enough away that the flame isn't touching the guitar. Not that hard to figure out really.

Plus with a poly finish not like a candles going to damage it unless your super careless. The flames when i've done it are really tiny.

I've fixed a few cheapies this way when I needed something quick and easy that would look okay.

Part of the reason I did this is many factory finishes are PTex resins. (per a friend who does a fair amount of work for Fender/Jackson/Charvel)

Showing my ignorance here but always keen to learn..................what is a PTex resin?

Jim

[Woodenspoke]

i dont know if theres any compatibility issuse; since the poly is tottaly cured;

but fill it with black stick laquer ,level and buff

+1

This is also called a Shellac stick. Ski repair material or real finish your choice.

Also try some tinted crazy glue or mix dry black dyes into epoxy and fill.

Any way you fill it you are still going to need to sand and buff out the finish to make it blend. If you just want to cover the light spots on the black try a Sharpie.

[Burkeee]

Thanks for the help guys.

I found out it is actually a lacquer finish, according to the manufacturer. I decided to go with the nail polish suggestion, and it looks like it'll work out. I built up a few layers and sanded flush with a small block, then added another few dribbles to the low spots. Should be good for a final leveling with 400 grit tonight, and then I'll hit it with the micro mesh and see if I can get it to blend.

Paul

[DGW]

Thanks for the help guys.

I found out it is actually a lacquer finish, according to the manufacturer. I decided to go with the nail polish suggestion, and it looks like it'll work out. I built up a few layers and sanded flush with a small block, then added another few dribbles to the low spots. Should be good for a final leveling with 400 grit tonight, and then I'll hit it with the micro mesh and see if I can get it to blend.

Paul

Black really is the hardest color to "blend" but I've had my best luck using nail polish.

Especially for nitro finishes which is what most nail polish is made of.

I build up the ding with nail polish.

Level it off with a razor.

Wetsand and then use my buffing wheel to help blend it in.

Works really well for me.

[Narcissism]

The black resin candles they make for fixing skis and snowboards I've used for stuff like that on cheap guitars before. Your mileage may vary.

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple.

Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO

You hold it far enough away that the flame isn't touching the guitar. Not that hard to figure out really.

Plus with a poly finish not like a candles going to damage it unless your super careless. The flames when i've done it are really tiny.

I've fixed a few cheapies this way when I needed something quick and easy that would look okay.

Part of the reason I did this is many factory finishes are PTex resins. (per a friend who does a fair amount of work for Fender/Jackson/Charvel)

I know he's already chosen a finishing option, but I really want to put my foot down on this.

Step 1: Light P-Tex candle

Step 2: hold p-tex over metal tray to catch unused flaming p-tex drip

Step 3: Drip flaming p-tex into desired cavity

Now, when you're dripping into the cavity its important not to hold it up too high. What'll happen if you hold it up too high is it'll splash, and leave unwanted "dots" which will melt into your finish. Chances are that while you're holding it up too high, you will not get the p-tex into the cavity, but more around the cavity than anything. In the end, you'll be doing a lot of extra work with your guitar because there will be a bunch of burnt dots all around where you're refinishing. Please DON'T use p-tex on your guitar. There are SEVERAL other ways to refinish/buff/fill/smooth out a few dents.