Jump to content

Acoustic Triple O Build


Recommended Posts

It will have cherry back and sides, sitka spruce top, striped ebony fingerboard, no fingerboard inlays, one piece mahogany neck, body joint at 12th fret, and a slotted headstock. I will start when I get the plans and a few parts from stewmac in a day or two. Here's pics of the wood, I had 4 tops, 3 backs, and 2 sides to choose my favorites out of. Sorry the pics aren't that great.

sides (sap wood will stay and will be on the top side closer to the neck):

IMG_2929.jpg

back (there is some quilt figure in it finishing should bring it out some more):

IMG_2931.jpg

soundboard:

IMG_2934.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats looking good GP. Do you have a close bond with your Estwing.....as it's in most of the pics...or is it there in case you get into trouble

Lol, I never even noticed that but it is in almost all the pics, I have a couple of them since there great hammers so that's what I use when I need one for hammering the nails, getting the rosette all the way in, and stuff like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All I've done in the past two days is rough cut the braces and sand a curve into them. Toady I got a lot done. I unclamped the sides from the mold, trimmed off the overhang, got them fitting right in the mold, sanded the back, glued all the braces on to the back, made head and tail blocks, and made all the kerfed lining. Tomorrow I will glue the head and tail block to the sides, shape the back braces and start gluing the soundboard ones.

Back cut out:

IMG_2945.jpg

Gluing on first brace:

IMG_2946.jpg

Cutting the kerfed lining:

IMG_2947.jpg

Kerfed lining done:

IMG_2948.jpg

Cutting slots for the other braces after shaping the first one:

IMG_2949.jpg

Rest of the bracing glued on:

IMG_2950.jpg

Sides in mold:

IMG_2952.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday i shaped the braces on the top and back, today I cut the top races back for the lining, mortised the binding, and glued the top on. I routed the truss rod slot, thicknessed the back of the headstock, and glued on the veneers.

Shaping back braces:

IMG_2967.jpg

Done:

IMG_2968.jpg

Soundboard braces done:

IMG_2970.jpg

Gluing soundboard on:

IMG_2973.jpg

Thicknessing headstock:

IMG_2971.jpg

Gluing on headstock veneers:

IMG_2972.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Too much? Did you determine that by tap tuning?

Too much because I just felt there should have been a little bit more brace left in a few spots but I did get both the top and back to have a great tap tone.

I had to make a new back, I tried gluing it the same way as the soundboard but it didn't work to good so I made a new one and tried using the go bars and it worked great. I made a jig to rout the binding and purfling channels, routed them, routed out the mortise for the neck, made the end piece, chiseled out a spot for it, and glued in the binding, purfling, and end piece.

neck:

IMG_2974.jpg

gluing on back:

IMG_2977.jpg

drilling tuner holes:

IMG_2978.jpg

jig for routing binding and purfling:

IMG_2979.jpg

binding and purfling channels routed:

IMG_2980.jpg

slot for end piece:

IMG_2981.jpg

getting ready to start binding:

IMG_2982.jpg

all done:

IMG_2985.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...