How Can I Cover This Up?

[Mitch]

How can I cover up this join? I was thinking of inlaying veneer over it but I don't have a precision router base. I could make a dremel base but I don't really want to for just one job plus I'm stuggling to find a nut for the thread on the dremel. Any ideas would be great.

Thanks guys.

[Mitch]

I'm not gonna paint it by the way.

[NotYou]

I think an big wooden inlay is your best bet. Making or buying a router base won't be so bad since you can use it on other builds.

I love your sig, BTW. I disagree, though. I like black coffee.

Edit:

Why is the wood in those stripes darker above that line?

Edited February 20, 2009 by NotYou

[Mitch]

Just a different tree. Same type of wood(cherry). The colour difference isn't quite as much it looks on this pic(cam flash) but its still pretty different. The center laminate is a completely diffrent wood all together, The top is sycamore and the bottom is ash. I'll try making a dremel base some time. It shouldn't be to hard as soon as I find a nut the right size, we have a mig welder here.

[Mitch]

Bump.

[Woodenspoke]

I'm not gonna paint it by the way.

Dam I was going to say that LOL

I think you many want to play with some stain here and a small paint brush. Apply some thinner to the wood and see how dark it gets. Then you can judge where you can go with the stain so it does not look way off from the rest of the guitar. However the light wood is a problem. You may also want to float some color on top by first sealing the wood with shellac and use real paint.

The nut I don't think exists the best I have seen is a 3/4-16 and you need a 3/4-12. That is a 3/4" x 12 treads per inch which is the Dremel thread size. A tap costs around $24. You could use a set screw if all else fails, with the cap on of course.

[wood is good]

OOOF

Man, why diddnt you use a template for that rear recess cover rout?

[Mitch]

I'm not gonna paint it by the way.

Dam I was going to say that LOL

I think you many want to play with some stain here and a small paint brush. Apply some thinner to the wood and see how dark it gets. Then you can judge where you can go with the stain so it does not look way off from the rest of the guitar. However the light wood is a problem. You may also want to float some color on top by first sealing the wood with shellac and use real paint.

The nut I don't think exists the best I have seen is a 3/4-16 and you need a 3/4-12. That is a 3/4" x 12 treads per inch which is the Dremel thread size. A tap costs around $24. You could use a set screw if all else fails, with the cap on of course.

Eek, the stainy paintbrush thing sounds a bit complicated. Plus the join isn't flat its all lumpy and there is bits of wood chipped out. I think I'll make a dremel base and do inlay.

Who's Stupid idea was it to put a put a thread that doesn't exist on their tool!!! Why!?! Anyway, Do you think a jubilee clip with a bit of rubber padding on the inside would hold it okay? I think i could fit 2 clips on the thread and that should hold it.

Edited February 23, 2009 by Mitch

[Mitch]

OOOF

Man, why diddnt you use a template for that rear recess cover rout?

Yeah, It was a dumb thing to do. I thought I could get away with just pushing the router to the lines. Im gonna make a slightly bigger cover and do it properly. I would have used a template(i have one made up as well) but i dont have a bit with a bearing at the top(only one with a bearing at the bottom). I'll just have to wait until i end up going to my friend-with-a-decent-router's house. I'll be hitting 2 birds with one stone doing this as I didn't plan the control cover screws and 3/5 don't actually go into the wood.

[DC Ross]

Do you have any more pics you could show us?

[Woodenspoke]

Do you think a jubilee clip with a bit of rubber padding on the inside would hold it okay? I think i could fit 2 clips on the thread and that should hold it.

So technical, I had to Google that to figure out it was a hose clamp.

Hard to tell it was rough so yeah you need an inlay to repair it.

OK a quick router base, A square plate 4 x 6" made from 1/8" plastic, aluminum or 1/4" plywood. Notch a V in the 4" side. Attach this plate,to a post. Lets say 1 x 1" square piece of wood slightly longer than the dremel. A couple of wood screw counter sunk below the surface of the lower plate holds the post, make sure the dremel is positioned over the notch. The post must not flex. hey weld a plate together even easier. Now use two jubilee clamps one on the Dremel body and one around the tip, as you said use some backing so the tip is tight to the post. You have to clamp the body not just the tip. You can also try just the body. If you have a large brake bend a piece of aluminum into and angle and use that to mount the Dremel. I could think of a dozen ideas.

[Mitch]

Thanks!!! Sorry about the jubilee clip thingy. UUs british come up with stupid names for stuff. anyway..

I have been thinking and i have absolutely no idea what shape to inlay. Any ideas? It can't be to hard as i have never done any inlaying apart from dots. Thanks everyone!

[Rick500]

Well, my experience is that a circle is the easiest thing to inlay, but you probably don't want a big circle there on the back of your guitar.

Maybe just a square or rectangle...?

[Tim37]

you could go to the sign shop and have a thin decal (logo or other design) cut that will cover that area then bury with a few coats of clear sand and buff.

[Woodenspoke]

The more I think of this post the more issues you have.

I think a dremel is not the right tool.

A router and a pattern or template bit. (will also help with the cavity cover)

I would put two strip of very straight wood up to the edges of your center strip and rout across the entire back with a pattern bit removing the center strips down about 1/8" or whatever metric equivalent you want to use. Then I would cut three new strips and inlay them into the same area. This way you only have small lines in each edge if the guitar but not in the back where even your repair will likely stand out.