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Kramer Focus 3000


Pestvic

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ok so i got this guitar in and it needs to be rewired.... there is no sound comming from it... so far i found out that the wiring was done wrong... i fixed it and have everything wired in perfect... except.. now i got this weird... switch thing... its a 6 prong killswitch with some sort of chip on top of it... that i need to wire in with it... here is a pic.

chipwiring.jpg

if you need more pics let me know and bump so i can post more....

i REALLY need this wiring diagram...

Edited by Pestvic
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The tan thing with flat screwdriver slot appears to be a potentiometer, perhaps setting gain or blending signals. The bulbous orange things are low value capacitors. The blue things are resistors. The original pic you posted... the arrow points to a reddish-orange glass component that is either a diode or a zener diode.

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The tan thing with flat screwdriver slot appears to be a potentiometer, perhaps setting gain or blending signals. The bulbous orange things are low value capacitors. The blue things are resistors. The original pic you posted... the arrow points to a reddish-orange glass component that is either a diode or a zener diode.

sweet well thanks for the info :D i still dont know how to wire it in :D but i just did without it. and wired it like it should be without that switch

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I have never used a killswitch

me neither.. it was a friends guitar. but oh well its all over... but just for the sake of information. if someone does figure out how to wire this chip in with two single coil and 1 humbucker pickup, either as a coil tap or kill switch please let us know :D

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the 'chip' is, like donavan said, a trim pot and a few other components......not a switch in sight....

no no no that chip. is connected TO the switch haha. like that green 6 prong thing under it is the switch its connected too.

Edited by Pestvic
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That's a silicon 1N4001 diode. Without knowing about the circuit further, if it is a kill switch then that supporting circuitry could just be there to dampen down any switching clicks and pops. Those are precision metal film resistors (low noise too) and that's a tantalum cap. The preset potentiometer could be there to adjust how quickly the circuit "reacts" to killing or re-enabling the signal. Difficult to say. Either way, it's odd.

<edit: oops, sorry Donovan....just noticed you'd said exactly the same thing!>

Edited by Prostheta
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Sure it's a killswitch?

It looks like it needs a battery, which would mean it's some kind of active tone/gain control. It might function as a killswitch with it not wired into the circuit. I'm guessing red goes to battery positive, black goes to ground/negative, and green goes to the volume control.

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That's a silicon 1N4001 diode. Without knowing about the circuit further, if it is a kill switch then that supporting circuitry could just be there to dampen down any switching clicks and pops. Those are precision metal film resistors (low noise too) and that's a tantalum cap. The preset potentiometer could be there to adjust how quickly the circuit "reacts" to killing or re-enabling the signal. Difficult to say. Either way, it's odd.

<edit: oops, sorry Donovan....just noticed you'd said exactly the same thing!>

ohhh weird.. crazy.

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Sure it's a killswitch?

It looks like it needs a battery, which would mean it's some kind of active tone/gain control. It might function as a killswitch with it not wired into the circuit. I'm guessing red goes to battery positive, black goes to ground/negative, and green goes to the volume control.

im not sure... all i know is when i was testing it. it was killing the signal. but maybe that ties into why it was wired wrong :-P

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Looks like an op-amp clipping circuit to me...likely the op-amp chip is hidden under the big trimming pot that adjusts gain. The glass diode is likely there to clip the signal crating an overdrive or distortion effect.

It was likely operating as a kill switch because there was no battery connected to power the circuitry...no battery, no sound! As a result, it may well be fully functioning (although someones been liberal with the flux in resodering stuff on the back there)

pete

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That's a silicon 1N4001 diode. Without knowing about the circuit further, if it is a kill switch then that supporting circuitry could just be there to dampen down any switching clicks and pops. Those are precision metal film resistors (low noise too) and that's a tantalum cap. The preset potentiometer could be there to adjust how quickly the circuit "reacts" to killing or re-enabling the signal. Difficult to say. Either way, it's odd.

<edit: oops, sorry Donovan....just noticed you'd said exactly the same thing!>

That is not a 1N4001. A 1N4001 is a general purpose rectifier, black with a silver band on one side. The diode shown is probably either a 1N4148 or a Zener diode. I also don't know how you can tell how the metal film resistors are precision and low noise, but OK. :D Anyway, I've been lurking here for about two days and decided to join up. I have my fair share in electronics, I would say. :D

Edited by Asfastasdark
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Oops! You're perfectly correct - i've not done much in the way of electronics for years now, so my memory is obviously failing. A 1N4148 definitely as I used to use them in boring op-amp clipping distortion circuits before I experimented with germanium diodes for their softer threshold :-D

I've found that the majority of modern (90s is modern to me) lower tolerance resistors are coated blue, and general purpose are beige. This isn't a hard and fast rule by any means, but they do look like the 0.25w 1% tolerance resistors I used for all my college and home projects. I think the beige ones were carbon or something.

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