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My Current Projects And A Few Neck Questions

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I'm a noob here and I'm attempting to erase my "modifier" status and move up to "Builder" . I've customized a few dozen guitars and made my own bodies , but this is my first attempt at a neck build.

I'm actually making two - one's a neck through , the other is a bolt on. Both are teak.

Here's some pics:


That's my Padouk double V and a Teak body I'm calling "The Jug" .


That's the teak body with the teak neck.



That's the Teak/Maple ML clone. Teak neck through .


StewMac goodies. A Maple FB , an Ebony FB , Titebond and two FB's that I sliced myself out of Maple.


the thickness is pretty close , mine to theirs. I just have to radius mine.

My questions have more to do with truss rod placement and do y'all think this will work ?????

Should I route under the FB , or should I route it from the back of the neck and skunk stripe it ?

Also I'm using jumbo SS fretwire. Does anyone know wher to get some tools made of unobtainium ? This stuff is like trying to file down the Eiffel tower using 120 grit . It takes awhile......

any tips on easier filing ?

Thanks to all who read, respond or help.


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I wouldn't go to the point of saying it is the only reason to use a skunk stripe. There are plenty out guitars with 2 piece neck that has a skunk stripe, it is just there for asthetics. But routing from under the fretboard is much easier. As for the filing, use a file instead of sandpaper, or a diamond honing stone.

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Skunk stripe - I think its all a matter of experience and belief in theory

The six guitars I've made so far all have solid Maple necks so I learnt how to router from the back and am considering to do the same on my next project which will have either a Rosewood or Ebony fretboard. If I decided to router under the fretboard it means I will have to re-learn everything all over again. I also have the theory that solid timber under the fretboard (no glue joints) would have a superior effect on sound

Those skunk stripes are hard to make though!

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