guitarnut Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I started on clear coats today. The neck has 5 coats on it. I'll give it a few days and then wetsand it before final coats. I'm really pleased with the flame on this one. I also put a couple of coats on the body to seal the maple and help protect the edges that will eventually be the binding. The red spots are lacquer putty, otherwise know as glazing putty. It makes a huge difference when doing opaque finishes. It fills in all the tiny surface imperfections. Alder is so soft and easy to ding, that even being careful, I managed to scratch it...see the red scratch at the bottom of the body. Lacquer putty makes quick work of this sort of thing. It applies easily, dries fast and sands like butter. It's a bit messy, so keeping the dust collector or vacuum close makes a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I'm back on this one again...it's been hit and miss but I'm pushing to get this one and my $210 Challenge build to finish at the same time. With a couple of clear coats on the sides to protect the faux binding, I'm ready to start the dye process. After wetting the top, and a piece of similar maple for finish testing, to raise the grain... I sanded it back to knock off the stubble. Then I applied a generous coat of black dye. I'll sand it back this evening and start testing with color...I'm leaning toward purple, but I've changed my mind on this several times already. So.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Well, I'm no longer thinking about what color to use on this build It's PURPLE! I'm loving it! Can't wait to get a few coats of clear on it. I'll leave the edge of the maple cap natural as faux binding...which will tie in nicely with the flame maple neck...and I think I'll black out the back...a purple back would be too much I think :!::!::!: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 awesome. looks like velvet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CainMD Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 jesus, that neck is sexy looking. Really liking this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinhold Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 A purple back would be too much for this, you wouldn't want to take away from the beauty that's already there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 I shot a few coats of clear to protect the dye while I work on the back and sides. Next. I'll sand back the sides and clean up the maple edge. I hope to get this one finished by this weekend. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 More shots of the finishing process. With the top dyed and clear coated, I sanded the sides back to make sure the edge of the maple cap was clean. This thing looks like a train wreck but it's smooth and clean and ready for black color coats. I taped off the faux binding and placed tape over any areas I didn't want overspray to reach. Close up of the masking around the truss rod adjustment route...nothing can reach the neck PU route or the top of the guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 With the black applied and the masking removed. This finishing system uses a clear sealer as the base for opaque colors so it looks like a dry application but it isn't entended to have a sheen like nitro would at this point. This water based stuff takes some getting use to. Here's a tight shot of the binding before easing the edge. And, after level sanding the top and easing the edge to reveal a bit of maple on the top. Clear coats tonight!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Mark, This is sweet....like usual. How did you "ease the edge" of that maple cap to get such a uniform faux binding top view? I get how the side is done, but have never seen the way the top edge is created. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Mark, This is sweet....like usual. How did you "ease the edge" of that maple cap to get such a uniform faux binding top view? I get how the side is done, but have never seen the way the top edge is created. SR Hi Scott. Thanks! I started to take photos of this but I was in a hurry to finish and get ready for work this morning. The edge is eased using a small rubber pad. about 1" wide by 2" long, and 220 grit. I hold the pad/sandpaper at a 35 degree angle to the top. And gently glide along the edge...keeping the length of the pad perpendicular to the edge of the body...so it's always forming a cross to the edge. This is one of those things where you should watch more what's coming off than what you're leaving behind. As you sand, you'll see dust or powder build up between the pad and the edge of the top. Watch this and sand until you have a uniform line of powder. This allows you to keep moving without lifting the pad...which could cause inconsistant edges. After you have a completed line around the guitar, wipe it clean and check your work. If you want more of an exposure, repeat until you're happy with the reveal. The key is to take your time and use minimal pressure until you see the results...which could vary from guitar to guitar depending on how the finish was built up. I highly recommend a little practice on scrap before attempting this on a nearly finished body. A quick mockup... Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Well of course. That makes perfect sense. You one sharp cookie mista! Seriously, your builds are full of great ideas. I will join the many that have said thanks for passing them on. It's really pretty hard to beleive that the Texas Tele was your first. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Well of course. That makes perfect sense. You one sharp cookie mista! Seriously, your builds are full of great ideas. I will join the many that have said thanks for passing them on. It's really pretty hard to beleive that the Texas Tele was your first. SR It took so long to complete, it was almost my last. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Well, Ive brought this build out of the dust and I'm ready for final clear coats. I did a quick level sanding to the first round of clear coats this morning. I'll be spraying fnal clear tomorrow with several other builds. I splashed a bit of water on the surface to see how it lays down. I've found this a quick way to look at color and texture before applying clear coats. A smooth surface is going to let the water flow out. A rough surface will make it pit and stay put...because of surface tension, I guess. This one's looking pretty good. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Final clear coats on...I love how smoothly this water based lacquer lays down... Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 The neck for this one came out pretty nice. This is natural...only clear applied. I wish I had done more with the heel on this one, though with that figure, I doubt anyone would notice. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Just a quick update. I have all the clear coats sprayed. I've been very happy with the way the EmTech water based lavquer lays down...just beautifil. It sprays like nitro, flows out smoothly, and cures very quickly. Of course, I've added a bit of help in the curing dept. I hang the guitars in my studio closet and I've placed a small space heater ( no extention cords involved...keeping it safe) in there with them...it keeps the room at about 100 degrees F. That coupled with the dry air indoors from the A/C really help the spraying schedule. I spray 2 double coats, place them in the hot room for an hour, spray 2 more and so on. It's been great. And when they come out of the room for another few coats, they're quite warm and the coats flash very quickly...allowing the double coat process to go very quick without fear of sags or runs. This will also allow me to speed up the cure time...normally fully cured in 100 hours. I used this hot room on my $210 Challenge entry and buffed it out the next day...only 20 hours after the final coats were sprayed. Now I just need to wait a few days for "baking" and they will all be ready for buffing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 I got started on buffing this morning. I started with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit wet sanding. Then buffed with fine ColorTone compound. I switched from my small buffer to a foam pad. It worked beautifully. It took only seconds before I had a smooth mirror shine...something the small buffer took much longer to accomplish. I was sanding/buffing 4 guitars this morning, so this is only to fine compound. I need to make a pass with swirl remover and then hand polish. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 After a pass with swirl remover... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2p2e Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 (edited) Wow... Seriously, I've read through countless threads on here, but your work is by far the most thorough, clean, efficient, and just "followable" that I've ever seen. You have all of these great innovative solutions to things most of us have labeled as guesswork. Keep up the great work, man! I can't describe how helpful your incredibly in-depth posts are to someone like me who's just starting out and is trying to learn everything they can so they don't make any major mistakes. Not that I won't end up making any, I'm sure.. But, thanks a ton for all of the effort you put into your posts, and really, your work in general. And by the way, I love the flame and purple finish on this one! Edited May 30, 2010 by s2p2e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Beautiful craftsmanship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Wow... Seriously, I've read through countless threads on here, but your work is by far the most thorough, clean, efficient, and just "followable" that I've ever seen. You have all of these great innovative solutions to things most of us have labeled as guesswork. Keep up the great work, man! I can't describe how helpful your incredibly in-depth posts are to someone like me who's just starting out and is trying to learn everything they can so they don't make any major mistakes. Not that I won't end up making any, I'm sure.. But, thanks a ton for all of the effort you put into your posts, and really, your work in general. And by the way, I love the flame and purple finish on this one! Thanks! That's very kind of you to say. I've been learning my way thru these builds over the last 18 months and I'm excited about all I still have to learn. I'm very happy to know that my experiences are helpful to others. Of course you couldn't have known this but I was having a hell of a crappy day before I read your post...nothing going right in the shop. Your thoughtful words helped me to focus and put the frustration behind me. Thanks! Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Beautiful craftsmanship. Thanks Muzz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarnut Posted May 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Another build that's been languishing in the vault since May of last year...had to rescue it from page 27 of the forum...sad. Not that anyone cares anymore, but I wanted to document the warp up. So, I got off track on this one because I didn't have PUs that I wanted for it. I decided to go with a set of Vintage Series '62 Customs. Beveled Alnico 3, staggered poles, brass base plate and cloth wrapped wire. I have the bridge, neck ferrules and tuners due in today, so this one should finish up quickly...then on to new, exciting builds. Peace, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whalehazard Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Are you using EM6000? What's your experience with the durability of that stuff? I've only finished one guitar and I used KTM-9 and am very unhappy with the durability. I'm pretty hard on my guitars, but this one was soft for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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