verhoevenc Posted March 10, 2010 Report Posted March 10, 2010 Ok, so Rhino is kicking my butt today and for the life of me I can't figure out why. Essentially what I did was create the taper for the fingerboard, extruded it up to 1/4" thick, and then did a boolean with a cylinder to create the radius on it's surface face. All that went off without a hitch. I then put little matching archs at each of the fret points. I then drew a rectangle in the shape of what I want my fret slots to be and sweeped it along each of these archs to create square fret slots curved to match the 12" radius of the board so they're equal depth at all spots. I then used a cut plane to cut off all these guys 1/16" in from the edges of the fretboard so that I can have an unbound board but still no fret slots showing at the sides. This is where the problems started... I have to boolean difference these "slot solids" with the board in order to actually make the slots. But for the life of me I can't get the boolean difference to frickin' work! I've tried everything! These damned things won't take the stupid chunks out of the board to create the slots!!! I've tried joining the, planar hole capping them... NOTHING works!!! Any suggestions you guys? If anyone feels like taking a peak at the file that works to I can always email it over. Chris Quote
MiKro Posted March 10, 2010 Report Posted March 10, 2010 Ok, so Rhino is kicking my butt today and for the life of me I can't figure out why. Essentially what I did was create the taper for the fingerboard, extruded it up to 1/4" thick, and then did a boolean with a cylinder to create the radius on it's surface face. All that went off without a hitch. I then put little matching archs at each of the fret points. I then drew a rectangle in the shape of what I want my fret slots to be and sweeped it along each of these archs to create square fret slots curved to match the 12" radius of the board so they're equal depth at all spots. I then used a cut plane to cut off all these guys 1/16" in from the edges of the fretboard so that I can have an unbound board but still no fret slots showing at the sides. This is where the problems started... I have to boolean difference these "slot solids" with the board in order to actually make the slots. But for the life of me I can't get the boolean difference to frickin' work! I've tried everything! These damned things won't take the stupid chunks out of the board to create the slots!!! I've tried joining the, planar hole capping them... NOTHING works!!! Any suggestions you guys? If anyone feels like taking a peak at the file that works to I can always email it over. Chris Yep, that Rhino will poke at you. Chris, may I suggest posting this at the Olf many there use Rhino. Mike Quote
verhoevenc Posted March 11, 2010 Author Report Posted March 11, 2010 Yup, Bob G. is a god send and awesome on the OLF. Knew exactly what the issue was and all is well once again!!! Woo!!! Now just to find a CNC to practice cutting it out! Anyone want a free model of a 25" scale, 12" radius, 24 fret fretboard with curved slot bottoms so they're a constant depth across the radius, that don't extend to the ends so no need to bind or cover side slot holes? I'd just love to see if cut in something... be it pine, or mdf, I don't care. Simply curious as to whether I've truly got this stuff down pat! Chris Quote
jpmarsh Posted March 14, 2010 Report Posted March 14, 2010 I do pretty much what you are describing but without the curved fret slots. I use the .023" bit from precisebits.com and it works pretty well. It takes a little longer than sawing the fret slots but I can keep the slots from cutting through the ends which saves time plus I can use my CNC to ensure accuracy. In theory, radiusing the fret slot sounds like a good idea but i'm not sure it's totally necessary. Quote
verhoevenc Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Posted March 14, 2010 Oh! That's handy to know they've got a .023" bit!! Chris Quote
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