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Guitarnut - Evh Wolfgang Build


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Well sorry I didn't see this thread before - new job, new country etc. I've been rather busy. Although since I own an original Peavey Wolfgang - if I recall rightly it's around 16 years or so old now - totally original US made from the first production run.

Anyway I a few things - which you've probably work out now - but hey:

1) The StewMac spoke wheel is about half the size of the Wolfgang truss rod.

2) Shaller Mini Tuners using the 40:1 ratio are the original tuners

3) The Floyd Rose has a D-Tuna on it - for quick drop D tuning (actually an excellent tool)

4) The neck and fretboard were original Birdseye Maple

5) The angle on the headstock is 10 degrees (iirc)

6) The Floyd is setup at EVHs preferred non floating - which is mine as well - I can't stand floating floyd roses and was one of the reason behind me buying it! The recess for the rear of the Floyd has a small amount of foam padding so it doesn't damage the wood.

7) 15 inch fretboard radius

Oh the headstock you are doing is the new EVH version. :D

If you need know anything more let me know. :D

Thanks!

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This build is great, I love Wolfgangs.

Is it just me, or does the bridge look closer to the back end of the guitar than one would expect? Doesn't look bad or anything, I just wonder if it is a modified design.

Thanks!

Yeah, the bridge is a bit farther back. As I continue this build, I'm finding problems with the templates. My guess is they made them from tracing a factory issue guitar instead of a CAD file. I haven't figured out exactly where the issue is...the neck joins the body at the right place...16th fret...and the spacing between PUs seems correct. Maybe they altered the size/shape of the body to avoid legal action. Don't know.

The scale is fine and the bridge doesn't bother my eye at all. So, onward and upward.

Peace,

Mark

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Progress and updates on this build have been pretty slow. Work is kicking my ass and with 16 hour days and deadlines looming, it will probably be after the 16th before I do any serious work on this.

I did manage to get a little done last evening. The second neck, with angled headstock, is coming along. The truss rod came in so I was able to get it installed, the fretboard glued up and trimmed.

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I also routed for the locking nut and removed the excess fretboard material behind it. This shot doesn't show it but I blended the fretboard into the headstock also.

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It's looking pretty good so far. I'm really anxious to get this one done...but I'll have to be patient with work...gotta pay the bills.

nck22.jpg

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Peace,

Mark

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People ask me why I spend so much time building gutars. First, I love guitars...have since I was 5 years old. And, even though I have a job where I'm allowed to be creative and enjoy a fair amount of freedom to make decisions and guide the outcome of projects, from time to time, it absorbs my every waking minute...this weekend is one of those times. Building guitars takes me away from all of the software, keyboards and video tapes.

A glimpse into how I'm spending my weekend...not building guitars. Life will be much better after the 15th. Crap, I still have to do my taxes, too!

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Peace,

Mark

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I ended up with a few hours to work on the Wolfgang after all.

I carved the back of the neck and did some detail work on the headstock. Not much, but it's more than I expected to get done today. I have tomorrow off and I plane to touch every build I have going...just so I won't feel so far behind.

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I got back to work on the neck(s) today. I started by leveling the fretboards then marking, drilling and installing the fret markers. Pretty simpe stuff.

nck30.jpg

I awlays like to apply a bit of clamping pressure to make sure the dots don't pop up during curing time.

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Ready for radiusing...

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Here's the neck in various stages of the radius process.

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Done!

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I used my fret saw with the depth gauge to radius the fret slots and take them to final depth.

nck35.jpg

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I fretted both necks and filed the fret edges...still need a final dressing.

nck36.jpg

I also did some work on the body. I did quite a bit of block sanding to finalize the carve. I remembered from the video link I posted about violin maker Joe Thrift, that he only uses scrapers on his violins...not sandpaper. He states that sanding dulls the reflective properties of figured wood.

Just for grins, I ran a scraper over the treble side of the body to make a comparison. There is definitely a difference in the intensity of the grain on the scraped side.

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I installed the tremolo. I had to take the spring cavity a bit deeper than the original route...my body started at 2" so the trem block wouldn't reach without the deeper route.

This shot without a flash shows the carve pretty well.

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I strung the 2 E strings to put some counter tension on the tremolo. The string spacing and action are nice. I really like the spoke nut truss rod...I can adjust the trus rod with everything in place. The neck needed a bit of relief put into it but only slightly.

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This one's getting close to being ready for finish.

Peace,

Mark

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Looking pretty good. Whats the finish gonna be?

And also, how come you made two necks for it?

Thanks. I'm thinking of going with a honey burst...not sure yet.

The first neck was made with a "scooped" headstock similar to a Fender. I wanted a more accurate build so the second has the appropriate angled headstock.

Peace,

Mark

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wrapping up some of the details before finish. I made thicker templates today for the cavity cover lips. The original template is too thin to get a shallow cut so I made them out of MDF. I've been putting this off because I didn't have any MDF but I found a scrap and even tough it wasn't big enough to cut both on the same piece without getting into holes in the scrap, I made them separately and large enough to be stable during routing.

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I always keep the dust collection close when cutting MDF...I wear a respirator, too.

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Ready to go. I'll make some progress on this build tomorrow.

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I finished up the last bit of routing on this one...it's now ready for finish prep. I have a PRS build that's getting close, too. I'll likely spray them at the same time.

body111.jpg

More as soon as I get to that point.

Peace,

Mark

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The last bit of machining to do on this one is the output bore. Easy enough on my Shopsmith.

body112.jpg

I turned my attention to final blocking the top. I made very light pencil marks over the top before blocking with a stiff rubber block and 120 grit.

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After a quick blocking, there are still a few marks in the upper bout, the butt end and the upper horn...might not be able to see them in the pic.

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A little more attention in those trouble spots with 120 then I blocked it with 220 grit. It's very close to being ready for finish.

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The back had a few dings and rubs from being moved around the shop. A hot iron and a damp rag took care of them. I'll have to set it a side to dry for a few hours before final sanding.

body116.jpg

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I got going on the finish. I first started with a couple of coats of sealer. I was real curios to see what the figure would look like with just clear on it. It's nice but not deep enough.

fin01.jpg

So, I sanded it back and applied some brown mahogany TranTint dye in denatured alcohol (DA).

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Then sanded it back

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Here it is with honey amber TransTint applied...a much deeper look.

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This is the first step of the burst. I wanted something different. The bursts on the Wolfgang are very thin on the outer edge...I wanted more drama to draw the eye to the center of the guitar. More like the big bursts on semi-hollow bodies.

After spraying 2 coats of sealer, and using brown mahogany with a touch or red TransTint dye in DA, I was able to spray the burst very quickly. The DA melts right into the sealer and instantly fixes the color. There's no need to let it flash between rounds on the burst. I sprayed this second dtage from start to finish without walking away from the guitar.

fin05.jpg

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Here I've added the third stage of the burst... a mix of brown mahogany with a touch of black TransTint around the very edge.

fin07.jpg

I followed that with several coats of sealer with honey amber TransTint. This brought the grain back nicely. I also sprayed the honey amber mix on the neck to give the grain a bit of a pop.

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I'll get the sides and back done tonight hopefully.

fin09.jpg

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Back on this build this weekend. I have a whole day to myself...my wife and stepson are at the watre park for a fundraiser.

After letting it cure for a few days, this is the result of the color coats.

fin10.jpg

I level snaded all surfaces and I'll add the trans brown to the back today with the goal of getting clear coats on it tomorrow...along with 3 other builds. :grin:

fin11.jpg

fin12.jpg

Peace,

Mark

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