Warwick Streamer Repair/refinish

[Muzz]

Wow after seeing so many guitars sanded back to reveal crap wood or even plywood it is great to see this one sanded back to reveal such subtle but lovely grain, It will look great in natural, but it wouls also look beautiful stained candy apple red, with a few coats of red lacquer. I'm enjoying this one whichever way it goes.

[Prostheta]

After you sand Maple up through the grits to 800-1200, spritzing it with a little water causes the grain to raise a little and become fuzzy. I'm not sure if this is relevant for all finishing processes, but it worked out very nicely on the last flame Maple neck I cleared with Poly. Whether it was an important step, I'm not sure. Do a bit of research! I think what I would be most concerned about is the glueing up of the crack and making sure that the glue doesn't cause any problems with stain or dye (if you're going to use them).

[Muzz]

The best way to fill that crack up would be fill it up with glue using an insulin syringe and needle. The scar would be very fine but you could score it with a scalpel and surface fill with something that will take stain (if it is going to be stained). I love neat repair scars on guitars.

[travismoore]

The best way to fill that crack up would be fill it up with glue using an insulin syringe and needle. The scar would be very fine but you could score it with a scalpel and surface fill with something that will take stain (if it is going to be stained). I love neat repair scars on guitars.

What sort of glue would be best to use with that method?

[Muzz]

The best way to fill that crack up would be fill it up with glue using an insulin syringe and needle. The scar would be very fine but you could score it with a scalpel and surface fill with something that will take stain (if it is going to be stained). I love neat repair scars on guitars.

What sort of glue would be best to use with that method?

1-2m is huge.

Ooops typo "mm" is what i was goin for.....

I'm not touching the crack, but I think I am going to enjoy watching this project

,

%#@$ it. just made a lier out of myself wouldn't be the first time

Because the crack is so thin, you could use just about anything, if it was me I would use a two pack finish, inject it in and use the same finish to coat the guitar, that would really lock that crack in and render it solid, but unless you plan on throwing that bass across the stage to a fumble fiingered friend it shouldn't make much difference, superglue, PVA, model aeroplane glue (which I have used for fretting) would all be fine.

[Muzz]

If you are staining, the old high school technique of sawdust mixed with PVA as a surface fill after a scalpel score should do it.

[travismoore]

If you are staining, the old high school technique of sawdust mixed with PVA as a surface fill after a scalpel score should do it.

Would I just be scoring up the surface enough so that the glue sticks nicley or?

Also do you think the crack will be subtle enough that I can go for a natural or stain?

[Muzz]

If you are staining, the old high school technique of sawdust mixed with PVA as a surface fill after a scalpel score should do it.

Would I just be scoring up the surface enough so that the glue sticks nicley or?

Also do you think the crack will be subtle enough that I can go for a natural or stain?

Many combinations would do it, you could stain first, perhaps scrape the crack after stain to even the colour if it darkens more than the area around, syringe in the finish and then do the top coats. You would only have to score the crack if you filled it with waterproof glue before staining.

If I was doing it, I would like the scar on the guitar so I wouldn't care about subtelty, but the fault line is so thin that it shouldn't be very noticable.

[travismoore]

Update

In my search for glue's I stumbled across this stuff and I thought I would give it a go as it seemed to tick all the boxes.

The glue is about as thin as water so it went nicley right through the crack.

I ended up bracing it apart a little with a maple off cut I had lying around.

After:

I still have to sand it down but its getting late here, so I will do it tomorrow.

[travismoore]

Hey guys, Sorry for the lack of activity here. As always life has been crazy...

I have the bass all sanded and masked now:

And this is the design I was looking at going for (I have gotten black hardware for it now too).

My dad is going to be doing the airbrushing but I need some info on what paints etc will be best.

I know I need a primer and I am guessing it should be white (as the grey might show through?) any suggestions on brands/types?

Also for the main finish my step dad has acrylic paints would they be ok or would automotive be better?

Thanks,

Travis

[Prostheta]

Maple is pretty forgiving for most paints, so as long as you've done a good sanding, raising of the grain, sanding back, etc. then pretty much any sealer/primer will do the trick.

I'm not an expert on finishing, but I have done a few "on a budget". Grey is a good choice of primer so you know if you've accidentally sanded through your colour coats when flatting. I'm a git for making mistakes like that, so it's helped me prevent them. A good white should obliterate any grey primer. Plastikote worked well for my Dark Sabre and my white Explorer, but I used the satin rather than gloss. The clearcoat brought it them up to gloss anyway. I got great results using a 2K-in-a-can clearcoat I got from eBay. A couple of cans should do this nicely. The only problem I can foresee is that PlastiKote has a significant curing time compared to 2K. You need to let the colour cure properly of course!

As for airbrushing? No idea. Sorry!

This is the 2K clear I used. It has the red doohickey in the cap which is used to release the seperate hardener into the paint (or however you term it). Many of the others on eBay are pre-mixed, which I don't believe will be as reliable. This stuff is open for 24hrs, although you can complete your clearcoats in maybe 2-3hrs with a handleable instrument within 12hrs. Seriously rocking stuff, but needs a respirator.

[travismoore]

Hey all,

I am just digging up this post because this bass has been sitting around at home while I've been at university and I finally have time to finish it. As always though I need some advice. I have done a bunch of reading up on refinishing but I definitely need some clarification before I buy all the stuff.

Currently the bass is all masked up and sanded to a 400 grit, my step dad has air brushing stuff so that is covered.

Before I prime the bass do I need to fill the grain first? Will the pores in the wood effect the finish?

**Will be using tack cloths to clean dust etc in between coats

Current Process:

Double check sanding - 400 Grit

Wax & Greese Remover

Primer - 1k - light coat to seal

- Sand to 600 Grit

White - 3-4 Light Coats - Auto Air

- Only sand if not smooth

Hot Rod Sparkle - 3-4 Coats - Auto Air

- Don't sand will mess up finish

Clear Coat - 2-part Catalyzed Polyurethane - 3 Heavy Coats

Sanding - 1000-1500, 3000, 5000 grit

Polishing - Foam Pad - Liquid Ice 3 passes/coats - Micro Fibre Cloth

This is sort of what I think the process should be from my research but any input would be massively helpful.

Cheers,

Travis

Edited May 18, 2014 by travismoore

[Prostheta]

I reckon you want to hit up Allan/demonx on this one. He's the man. Good hearing from you!

[travismoore]

Thanks Prostheta I will certainly drop him a line. Its good to be back here and to work on some of my projects that have been frustratingly sitting around. I am hoping to finally get my bass build completed as well

[demonx]

I skim ready and it sounds like you're using acuto 2k and then a 2k clear?

Anyway, a few comments. If it's all maple you won't get much sink back, but i tend to use epoxy sealers to both seal and grain fill before I do any priming and this is on all timbers. It'll help you level the surface anyway as it's never perfect even after a fussy sand.

I tend to do all my priming with clear coat these days, but I used to use PPG prima primer or other high solids grey primers. I haven't used "primer" on a guitar for a couple years now as I'm getting better results with the sealer and clear. It also helps achieve cleaner mask edges at tricky spots like fingerboard edges etc

3-4 coats of color sounds excessive, I usually spray 2, sometimes three if I have to. But I do spray a tack coat at the start, which is virtually just a mist over the guitar to help with adhesion and avoid runs

Same as above with clear, usually two clear coats is enough if you're using a 1.8 tip. If you're using a 1.4 tip you'll need three thick coats.

Sanding the clear I start at 2000 then 3000 and then buff, however sometimes I'll have done a crap job and have a couple spots I'll start off at 1000, but it's usually 2000.

I don't use microfibre cloths or any of that dirt of stuff. Just a good cut as described above (all wet sanding of course) and then a polish with a waffle pad on an air polisher (variable speed) with a quality 3M polish.

[travismoore]

Thanks for taking the time to give your opinion Demonx it is much appreciated.

Just to double check I understand, the process would go something like this:

Double check sanding - 400 Grit

Wax & Greese Remover

Epoxy Sealer - 1 Coat?

Clear Coat - 2-part Catalyzed Polyurethane - 1 Coat? (instead of Primer)

White - 2-3 Coats - Auto Air

- Only sand if not smooth

Hot Rod Sparkle - 2-3 Coats - Auto Air

- Don't sand will mess up finish

Clear Coat - 2-part Catalyzed Polyurethane - 2-3 Coats

Sanding - 2000, 3000 (start from 1000 if needed)

Polishing - Air Polisher - Waffle Pad - 3M Polish

A couple more questions if that's ok.

What clear and epoxy sealer would you recommend?

When you say a tack layer, do you mean just a very thin layer of the colour?

[travismoore]

Just ordered most of the materials to get started on this, I just have a quick question.

I am having trouble finding 2-part Catalyzed Polyurethane within the UK, Can anyone direct me to a good place to get hold of some and what brand is good to go with?

Edited July 6, 2014 by travismoore

[Prostheta]

Not sure about the UK, but companies like PPG-Maalit here mix up rattlecans to whatever colour you want (PPG obviously) for €25 a pop. They can also do straight lacquer. I've seen it off the shelf, however I guess I prefer to buy "fresh" rather than stuff meant to sit on a shelf indefinitely.

I bought some on eBay many moons back. It came in a can with a separate compartment for the hardener rather than being pre-mixed. Search "2k aerosol" on eBay. Not sure about brands. Most will be more or less the same I think when it is off the shelf stuff. Lesonal do a 2k lacquer which I have anecdotally heard is pretty good.

[Prostheta]

Try this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-PAINT-2K-CLEAR-LACQUER-AEROSOL-PETROL-AND-OIL-RESISTANT-WHEN-FULLY-CURED-/301156999463?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item461e5b2127

[travismoore]

Thanks for the link, I was trying to find ones that I could spray using an airbrush rather than a rattle can. I did a little search for PPG but it seems I can only find 5 litres which is overkill for one bass. I will keep looking and hopefully I can find something smaller.

Edit:

Found some, looks like its referred to as a "Clear Coat Lacquer" in the UK......

Edited July 7, 2014 by travismoore

[Prostheta]

I doubt 2k through an airbrush would be safe or even possible. Certainly, being up close and personal with the work - as an airbrush would imply - is not something I would want to do with 2k paint anyway. You need high levels of ventilation and also you should be protecting your eyes and skin from toxin absorption. A rattlecan gives you enough movement and the option to walk away from the work without being tied up to a line and replacing a gun on a stand.

For the amount of money that is in that bass, even buying one of those rattlecans to learn from it on test work would be wise. Better than learning from committing to the workpiece. If you screw this one up, I'm coming over to raid your fridge and take your bass.

[SerpentineGtars]

I would recommend this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-aerosol-Spraymax-Gloss-Lacquer-Clear-Coat-Spray-400ml-art-no-2680061-German-/251373981458?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3a870e8f12

It is in a spray can, but it sprays like a spray gun... And it is genuine 2k, unlike the stuff above. There's a button on the underside of the can which pops open a small canister of hardener inside the can. Shake it up and mix everything together and this stuff will be ready to sand in 24 hours (although I would allow longer unless you have an Infra Red heat lamp lying around that you could to speed up the process).

PS. It is PU based, so decent mask, eye protection and one of those disposable coveralls, working in a well ventilated area (garage with door open) is highly recommended. Leave the garage between coats for additional safety.

Edited July 9, 2014 by SerpentineGtars

[Prostheta]

Good call. That's the stuff.

[travismoore]

Thanks for the info guys I really appreciate it I will go for the rattle can. I am always really glad this forum exists because no matter how much you read up on things on the net someone with experience can always tell you a better way of doing it. Also thanks for the safety tips.

With the can how many coats would I need approximately? I am trying to get the best finish I can really as I will be selling the bass on after its done and I want to make sure its hard wearing/professional.

Don't worry Prostheta my step dad will be doing the spraying as he has experience with that sort of thing, I honestly wouldn't trust myself or at the very least I would be doing a lot of tests ha.

[SerpentineGtars]

Thanks for the info guys I really appreciate it I will go for the rattle can. I am always really glad this forum exists because no matter how much you read up on things on the net someone with experience can always tell you a better way of doing it. Also thanks for the safety tips.

With the can how many coats would I need approximately? I am trying to get the best finish I can really as I will be selling the bass on after its done and I want to make sure its hard wearing/professional.

Don't worry Prostheta my step dad will be doing the spraying as he has experience with that sort of thing, I honestly wouldn't trust myself or at the very least I would be doing a lot of tests ha.

As a guide, one full can will do a body. I would aim for three coats, allowing 15 minutes between coats.