gm.williford Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Hi, I have been working on an SG style guitar, and I'm almost finished. But I am too afraid to drill holes for the tune-o-matic bridge. How should I measure everything so that I can place the holes where they need to be? does anyone know of a helpful template? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Plug your numbers into this tool from StewMac: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm.williford Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Plug your numbers into this tool from StewMac: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator Thanks, that helped a lot, but I still don't know, for example, how deep to drill the holes or how to space the the two components of the tune-o-matic from each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 well... If you have the bridge, measure all the things... thats the obvious way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinhold Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Warmoth has a bridge template section... http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Optio...OptionsPop.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 every bridge is different. Unless is is a name brand brige you will most likely have to figure it out for yourself how far to space the holes. If it isnt a korean bridge look at the manufacturers link they usually show specs, if they dont call them. As for the inserts measur the diameter and make a smaller hole. Probably time to buy an inexpensive digital caliper, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Establish your centerline based on your neck being in place to start with: 1. Mount your neck, screw it in place. 2. Check your centerline by taking a 4' rule and tracing/marking a line (run some tape down the top if you don't want to mark the top up) down each side of the neck down to the bridge area, split the difference, then run a mark down the middle as your centerline. If you have a bookmatched top and your centerline isn't matching up with your bookmatched centerline and you want it to, now is the time to re-adjust your neck so that it does. 3. Know the scale length of your neck/guitar. 4. Measure with a 4' rule or a tape measure from the nut to the end of your scale length and mark it on your centerline, and be precise. 5. Take a square and make (2) 3" lines at right angles to your centerline, this is your -basic- starting position for your bridge. It will probably change. 6. Take your TOM bridge and move the high E saddle all the way forward, maybe leave it a tiny bit back from the very front edge travel. 7. Put your TOM basically in place. Line that treble E saddle up with your scale length mark. Be very precise here. Line the breakpoint of your forward saddle right over the top of that line. 8. Take a pen (or maybe a scribe) and make a mark through the treble stud hole, marking the position. Be precise. Be sure your high E saddle is at least over that mark or a tiny bit forward of it. Your mark may be (probably will be) ever so slightly behind your scale length line, that's OK, I said the scale length marker was just a starting point. 9. Now make a NEW set of 3" right angle marks left and right of your centerline. This is your adjusted/compensated TOM position (for the time being) 10. Lay your TOM over a rule that has marks at least to 1/64", and measure it center to center. 11. Split the difference, take that figure then using your square lined up with your centerline, make two appropriate marks to the left and right of your centerline at your TOM stud center locations. You will be moving the bass side mark back in a minute tho. 12. Now here, people will vary a little how much they sit the bass side behind the treble side. Personally, I try to get it as parallel as I can possibly get it, I hate ridiculously slanted TOM bridges, personally I think they look stupid, and if you've followed the directions so far, you shouldn't have to sit your bass side any more than 1/8" back from the treble side, 3/16" is more accepted I think, ...but it DEPENDS on: A. The exact kind of bridge you have b. How much travel your saddles offer you in movement front to back C. How accurate you were in moving your treble E forward and marking your scale line accurately D. The type/gauge of strings you intend to use 13. Make a mark for your bass side location now, 3/16" if you want to go standard, mine are usually less than that. 14. Measure one of your TOM studs', collar to bottom, so you know how deep to drill, add maybe 1/8" or 1/4" depending on how confident you are 13. Put a piece of tape on your drill bit at that distance 14. Drill your stud holes. HOWEVER: The last important doublecheck I use is once I have my two TOM stud locater marks marked, I will place the TOM back over the marks to see if they actually appear to line up dead center to center, most of the time you have to move the marks in a tiny bit to actually make them line up with the bridge hole centers due to moving the bass side back, it extends the distance and you have to compensate for it, and if your marks don't appear to be dead-on center to center with your TOM holes, then adjust each of them accordingly. PS, I don't actually install the studs until I've completely finished the guitar and buffed the finish, they get in the way. PPS, don't forget to drill a hole from your control cavity into the treble side stud to run a ground wire into later on. I'm not sure if this is the kind of information you were looking for, or if you were simply wondering how deep to make your holes...my apologies if you already knew most of this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 PS, If it's a set neck or a neck-thru, disregard the section dealing with the possibility of adjusting the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buter Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 So you don't just, like, do nice finishes then? Saved to hard drive. Thanx D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 PS, I don't actually install the studs until I've completely finished the guitar and buffed the finish, they get in the way. PS to the PS, I also stick a heated soldering iron into the stud hole for a quick minute to heat up the interior of the holes right before I sink the studs in. Heating up the holes a bit helps to soften up the finish so's not to get any chipping of the finish as you drive 'em home to momma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm.williford Posted August 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 Those instructions were excellent. Thanks for taking the time out to help someone less savvy than yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 No problem, hope it helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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