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Wonder If Anyone Has Tried This?


plinky

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I learned my lesson time and time again - I'm never using spray can anything to finish a guitar (unless its something like re-ranch - never tried 'em so I can't comment on them).

Tried ReRanch & wasn't happy with it (overpriced & he charges full shipping when I'm 3 miles from his house). Had good results with the Stew-Mac lacquers. Just wanting to try a urethane finish this time, but I can't afford an HVLP system at the moment, nor do I have a place to set up such a rig.

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I saw this stuff at an auto parts store recently at $36.00 a can and was tempted to try it until I read all the warnings. Like, if used indoors, must be used with positive ventilation respirator. I might still give it a go, but will have to wait until it's nice and warm outside.

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If you find a sale at harbor freight, you can get a turbine-driven HVLP system for about $60. I think the system is full price at $90. Two cans of your urethane would get you the rig, plus you would have it for all future builds. The system at HF also gets very good reviews from the automotive world. I got one for Christmas, but haven't had weather that will allow me to try it out yet (guess that's what happens when you live near canada in january).

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If you find a sale at harbor freight, you can get a turbine-driven HVLP system for about $60. I think the system is full price at $90. Two cans of your urethane would get you the rig, plus you would have it for all future builds. The system at HF also gets very good reviews from the automotive world. I got one for Christmas, but haven't had weather that will allow me to try it out yet (guess that's what happens when you live near canada in january).

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/hvlp-turbine-spray-system-66297.html

$84 at HF right now. Might just give this a try. Thanks for the tip. The weather isn't much better right now down here in Dallas. One day 70 deg., the next 10. :D

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I used a similar product whilst we were in the UK. Fantastically convenient and stinks the house out a treat. That and it's very convenient for killing you considering it's in easy to use can form.

On the positive side, it dries quickly and one can has an open time of 24hrs or so which allows several repeat coats per can. I used it on my Sabre and my Explorer. A few days later they were cased up on on their way to Finland. No problems with the finish in transit. Wouldn't recommend what I did there though ;-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've used the Spray Max 2k version in a can on a couple of guitars and like how fast it dries for recoating. However, I only use it outside with a respirator, eye protection, gloves and long sleeves because it is dangerous. If I had a proper booth in my basement with an explosion proof fan etc. then I would use it for all my guitar finishing. Otherwise I use waterbase stuff. Also, the Spray Max 2k costs less than the Aeromax. Just one place where it can be purchased. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/search.aspx?keywords=SprayMax

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First thing to check out would be the manufacturer's instructions, six_stringer. Beyond that you would really need to know the composition and tendencies of the specific product to do something other than what is recommended.

If it's like the 2K I used on the Dark Sabre and the Lumi EXP then time between coats is about 15 minutes. That's not dry enough to *handle* but dry enough for a chemical bond to happen whilst "within the window". I think some paints can wrinkle or do strange things if you pop on coats after "the window" and before curing. The least of these problems can be witness lines when finish sanding if you cut through the transition between coats. FWIW, the open time of these 2 part cans with the hardener actuators is about a day which is far longer than the time it'll take to go through the first 3/4 of the tin. You might risk spitting in the last quarter or so (or is that 1/3?).

This looks like it's a pre-mixed "2K" which isn't as good as a proper 2 part (at least, that is what I have been told) although the description sounds like it would do the trick. An intercoat time of 5-10 minutes sounds good as most pre-mixed cans are heavy in solvents for shelf-life, which retards final curing for a few years.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-pol-clear-1-high-gloss-clear-coat-up0796-p-15130.aspx

This is pretty much what I used - the actuator for releasing the hardener into the clear is the red thing in the cap.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLEAR-LACQUER-SPRAY-PAINT-AEROSOL-400-ML-2K-HIGH-GLOSS-/280510654316?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item414fbce76c#ht_2154wt_905

At least, that is my understanding of these things. Paint finishing is the one thing I've never dabbled in hugely for several reasons.

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Oopsy. I may have just misread the thread by being in too much of a hurry! Sorry. Big brainfart. :D

Yep. The stuff linked from the OP's post is the same kind of product I recommend. Convenient for occasional builders but expensive compared to spraying for regular painters.

Edited by Prostheta
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