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Searls - 7 String Superstrat


demonx

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SUPERSTRAT - 7 string

Mahogany body

Maple Neckthru

Ebony board with white binding

Mother of Pearl large diamond inlays

Reverse Sasafrass headstock

Kahler Trem

Grover Tuners

Bridge p/up - Bareknuckle Painkiller

Neck p/up - Custom order Bareknuckle single

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I really thought I was clever when I started this guitar as I had not seen anyone put sections of timber into a scarf joint. After being on this site a while heaps of people are doing it! Don't feel so special now!

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Building guitars doesnt always go as planned!

This was meant to be a rest day - I got bored and decided to radius and fret the 7 string. This one had a bit more board overhang than what I'd normally do, so I shoved a chisel underneath for a bit of support. Apparently it wasn't enough.

The fix - I've cut it back to a 21 fret, chiseled and cleaned up the shim area and glued a new strip of binding to the end.

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More pics to come when I get time to do more work!

Edited by demonx
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I can assure you the save wasn't by choice!

If the guitar was for someone other than myself I'd have pulled the board and fixed evrything to spec including installing an extended shim and new board, but since this ones just for me to have a 7 string player laying around I just worked with it.

I also just realised I forgot to post a rear pic, so here it is:

IMG_0906small.jpg

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Thanks, appreciate it - the different headstock is not everyone's taste but I like it.

I've never seen it done like this before either, it's something I come up with one night while "day dreaming" at work.

Im trying to be original, same as my scarf joints are a bit different to others.

Not too many ways to be original in lutherie these days!

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  • 3 weeks later...
What finish product are you shooting?

Keep on posting!

This is just a cheap ("Spartan" is the brand) Automotive 2k that I use on transparent guitars as a primer and grain filler before spraying candies or final good quality clear.

It is definitely not what I'd reccomend as a great clear. I only use this because its cheap and I sand most of it away. It sprays horrible. It's thin and runny, even if I under thin it. It's just an all round cheap clear but it does what I use it for! I spray it on extra thick, not worrying about runs or anything as it all gets sanded.

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Speaking of sanding, I'm surprised you left that spot by the treble cutaway. :D

The rest of the guitar looks so professional.

That was a screw up where I slipped when using the bandsaw roughing it out. It's sanded but the cut is deeper than I was willing to sand back, the fact it stands out now doesn't bother me as when I spray the burst, it'll be invisible - covered by black.

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Speaking of sanding, I'm surprised you left that spot by the treble cutaway. :D

The rest of the guitar looks so professional.

That was a screw up where I slipped when using the bandsaw roughing it out. It's sanded but the cut is deeper than I was willing to sand back, the fact it stands out now doesn't bother me as when I spray the burst, it'll be invisible - covered by black.

The guitar looks beautiful as it is now, can't wait to see the burst.

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Ive been out block sanding the clear getting it ready for the next clear shoot, but I cannot do that until the Rhoads is able to be moved from my spray room.

Sooo... in the meantime I've been playing with PPG candy dyes and come up with my own color. It's a trial and error mix of red, yellow and violet PPG candy concentrate dye, then mixed into a Basecoat blender to make a 2k automotive Transparent Candy which I can add thinner to.

You can see what I came up with here wiped over a piece of mahogany to testthe wing color and the thin strip of timber is a bit of maple to resemble the neck. I reckon that'll look sweet once its cleared!

IMG_1213small.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The way I've been doing it (which seems to work quite well) is radius the board at my starting radius, but focus more towards getting the nut area perfect and then sort of gradually lighten the sanding effort but making sure its radiused with no flat spots as I get towards the end of the board. I have different cauls here I can test guage with and even though it sounds weird, it works. I'm pretty much free hand radiusing, except I'm using a radiused block to do it.

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Yep.

Posting pretty much anything here add a bulk to the price, which means a lot of things that our American members take for granted, we see as way overpriced. Timber is one of those things. For example, a while ago I was looking at a set of figured quilted maple wings, price $90, shipping $120. It just adds a lot of cost to the building process.

Simple things like shipping a whole guitar, I've had quotes everywhere between $300 and $600 from different stores in the USA. Buyer beware!

I enquired about the CNC machine that RAD purchased. They offer free shipping in the USA. To get it sent to me was either $1500 or $3000 freight. CAnnot remember which one, either way its a big addition to the initial cost.

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