FadeAway Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 I am currently looking at some ghost pearl mix that would go into clear coat. What would be the most cost effective way to apply this? I try to stay away from brushing because I don't trust my self to do a good job of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 If you dont have spraying experience, I'd suggest staying away from pearls/metallics until you build up some time with the gun. just my advice. It takes a slightly more complex spraying patters (spraying in x's) to get a perfect fill of pearls or metallics, otherwise you can get train tracks which in this case means uneven distribution of the flake. It also requires (in some cases) using larger tip on your spray gun otherwiwe it'll clog up. Not fun when that happens, I've been there when I first started out spraying and trying to "make do" with cheap gear and it can ruin a paint job with splatter in seconds. I suggest you head to your local paint store, tell them what you're wanting to do, ask what they reccomend hardware wise and see what your budget can handle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeAway Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Thank you helpful as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Don't take my advice the wrong way - I'm not trying to deter you, just trying to save you from failure. When you start out spraying its hard enough to get the simply solid colors and clears looking good without trying to add "expert" skill level stuff into the mix. If you don't have a spray setup already and a spraying skill base down pat, then you have a long path of failed paintjobs, more sanding and failed paint jobs ahead of you. We've all been there and it does take time and patience. If you persist and try try again, you'll get there. The first time you do get there, you'll be bloody proud of yourself as it is a hell of a lot of hard work and in my case, even now I've got a few years spraying experience under my belt, I still feel proud when I pull off a good paint job. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Would you mind expanding a little upon your "X" pattern of spraying. I have never heard about it before and am rather curious. Anything that might help get a better result is always nice to learn about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeAway Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 demonx, could you take me step by step through this painting process? I know I have to fill the wood in areas where I sanded through the resin. But what type of paint would you recommend? Also, its possible to paint on top of clear coat right? I had an Idea that is more simple but still pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 It's a pretty involved process, I've gone throught it all before on this forum, I'll find the link and post it. I paint over clear, but you need to sand it first so there's something for paint to stick to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Would you mind expanding a little upon your "X" pattern of spraying. I have never heard about it before and am rather curious. Anything that might help get a better result is always nice to learn about. Spray the first coat normal, as in either vertical or horizontal, which ever is your preference, then the second at a diagonal left to right, then the third on diagonal right to left. The first coat you'll see lines in the flake (be it pearl or metallic), the secon coat you'll still see the lines from the first and now lines from the second, then after the third coat the lines will disappear. It's way more noticable spraying a large surface like a car than a small guitar, but I still use the x pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 demonx, could you take me step by step through this painting process? Have a read through these threads, they may answer many questions: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46024&pid=499686&st=0&#entry499686 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=45856&st=0 As far as paint process - it can change dramatically depending what products you choose. Best bet is to read the tech data sheets, you'd be surprised at how much info you can get from them. In a nut shell I sand the timber to 320 Shoot 2-3 layers of primer, after leaving it for several days sand it to 600 spray color and clear on same day then leave it for a week minimum. Sand it with 1000, 2000 then 3000 and polish. I'm about to start experimenting with my products that I use. I'm wanting to try some of the "industrial" range in hope to replace the automotive products. At least replace the auto primers. If I can get as good finish then I'll be happy as I'll be spending a fraction of the price on product. A tin of the clear I use costs me about $480, wheres a tin of the industrial is about $80. I'm doing research and talking to the paint companies tech people before I spend money and start trialing. I just have to call one more person who is their specialist on wood coatings, after I've heard his view then I'll do some trials and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeAway Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I am still going with the pearl , I picked up a rather nifty hobby sprayer that seems to have a decent pattern with the paints I have run through it so far. consistent pattern. I hope it turns out well. would you recommend sanding in between coats of everything? my school art teacher made the suggestion. Also, an idea I had but don't trust to put into practice, What if you took a shape (say a fleur-de-lis) made out of cardboard or plastic (basically the opposite of a stencil) and put it on the body before you sprayed the pearl or the metallic? any idea how that would turn out? and thank you for the tutorial, it will make things much easier with a reference. I envision this coming together some time next week(end)? all depending on how smoothly things go. good luck on your V6 demonx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Sanding between coats? What type of paint are you talking about? With 2k you DO NOT sand the color! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeAway Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I was talking about coats of primer and clear (and not the pearl-clear layer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeAway Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 sorry, I didn't see that part about sanding the primer until after i posted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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