Carved Top Tele

[guitar2005]

I want to do a carved top tele. I have a cherry top which is pretty much 3/4" thick.

1) What is the typical delta between the high and low points ofthe carve to get a nice result?

2) I'm also wondering what kind of tools to use for this. I was thinking of doing a rabbet cut with the router around the edge of the guitar and then, with a rasp, make it flow nicely to the top portion.

[ScottR]

I want to do a carver top tele. I have a cherry top which is pretty much 3/4" thick.

1) What is the typical delta between the high and low points ofthe carve to get a nice result?

2) I'm also wondering what kind of tools to use for this. I was thinking of doing a rabbet cut with the router around the edge of the guitar and then, with a rasp, make it flow nicely to the top portion.

I like 3/4" tops for carving. I like to use a rabbet to set and even carve line, usually 1/4" up, which leaves 1/2" of rise. You can get a little more variance by doing a recurve off your 1/4" rabbit. I like a lot of change in my carves but that's just me. RAD gets a visible carve out of a 1/4" top. I think an LP used a half inch top with a quarter inch rise. I literally rough carve mine with palm gouges and then sand them, but I don't recommend that to anyone not familiar with them. Your rasp plan is sound, in fact your whole plan is sound. Take your time; you can always cut a little more away, but it's damn hard to put any back. Use your fingers as much as your eyes to check the uniformity of your flowing curves.

SR

[guitar2005]

I like 3/4" tops for carving. I like to use a rabbet to set and even carve line, usually 1/4" up, which leaves 1/2" of rise. You can get a little more variance by doing a recurve off your 1/4" rabbit. I like a lot of change in my carves but that's just me. RAD gets a visible carve out of a 1/4" top. I think an LP used a half inch top with a quarter inch rise. I literally rough carve mine with palm gouges and then sand them, but I don't recommend that to anyone not familiar with them. Your rasp plan is sound, in fact your whole plan is sound. Take your time; you can always cut a little more away, but it's damn hard to put any back. Use your fingers as much as your eyes to check the uniformity of your flowing curves.

SR

Ok - that's what I'll do then: a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet to use as a guide. I've looked at gouges @ Lee Valley to get most of the material out. Is there one in particular that you would recommend?

They have these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30024&cat=1,41504

or these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58812&cat=1,130,43332,43703&ap=1

or these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=43701&cat=1,130,43332,43703&ap=1

or these smaller "palm" gouges:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=68940&cat=1,130,43332,43703&ap=1

So many choices... I'm lost

[Mattia]

I recommend an angle grinder and a flap sanding disk. And then fine-tuning with a small convex soled plane (I use the large ibex finger plane) and (french curve) scrapers. I usually use anything from 16mm (5/8") to 20mm (about 3/4") for carved tops, carved backs on my electrics are more subtle (and do not have a recurve) with a delta between peak and edge of about 10-12mm (1/2") tops. I've used a gouge (traditional style, like the first in your shot, rather than the woodcarving sets you've also linked to) for carving out the inside of a top before. In all honesty, for the largely convex shapes involved in tops, even a chisel will do a pretty good job roughing things out.

[guitar2005]

I recommend an angle grinder and a flap sanding disk.

I can just imagine the cloud of dust. I'd rather rough out with hand tool if possible to minimize the amount of dust.

[ScottR]

I mostly use the straight gouges about a half inch wide set up as a palm gouge. I don't recommend that flexcut brand though, too much flex and they don't hold an edge long enough IMO. Crow uses the straight gouge, a bit wider, and set up like your first example to tap with a mallet. That is less work and less control. If you haven't used these before, you should look into the finger planes Mattia is recommending as well before buying anything. A lot of guys here use them and swear by them. Carving with gouges is very fun and rewarding, but there is a learning curve involved.

I use the right angle grinder with a flap disk on my back carves, and there is a tremendous amount of dust involved for sure. It is much faster though. I use them very sparingly on the front though. One slip with one could cause a design change, or at least that's what I'm afraid of.

SR

[avengers63]

I use a Saf-T-Planer, taking the topography down in 1/8" steps, then evening it all out with a palm-sander and 60-grit.

[guitar2005]

Is there a small finger plane that you guys recommend?

[Mattia]

I don't carve inside. And yes, the angle grinder requires a light touch, but you can control in incredibly well. Let the speed do the cutting, do it outside, stand upwind, electric fan in the absence of breeze, and there you go. I always wear good dust protection anyway. Small finger plane I use:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Planes/Ibex_Planes/Ibex_Convex_Finger_Planes.html

Largest one (47mm body)

[guitar2005]

I don't carve inside. And yes, the angle grinder requires a light touch, but you can control in incredibly well. Let the speed do the cutting, do it outside, stand upwind, electric fan in the absence of breeze, and there you go. I always wear good dust protection anyway. Small finger plane I use:

Yeah, but I don't want to have to work outside. I need to be able to do this in the workshop.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Planes/Ibex_Planes/Ibex_Convex_Finger_Planes.html

Largest one (47mm body)

Those are nice. They look a lot like these, which I can get locally.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32680&cat=1,41182

I think I'll go with the 47mm body like you suggested.

[Mattia]

Then a gouge it is. I still prefer to spend 10 minutes outside with the angle grinder than an hour inside with edged tools for roughing it in. I carved my first with a gouge and plane, and I'm not doing that again. Not with maple at least. Spruce perhaps, because that's actually fun to carve. The Lee Valley planes are in fact Ibex planes, same as the ones StewMac sells.

[guitar2005]

Then a gouge it is. I still prefer to spend 10 minutes outside with the angle grinder than an hour inside with edged tools for roughing it in. I carved my first with a gouge and plane, and I'm not doing that again. Not with maple at least. Spruce perhaps, because that's actually fun to carve. The Lee Valley planes are in fact Ibex planes, same as the ones StewMac sells.

Ok - thanks for the tips.

So a gouge and a small plane.

[ScottR]

Be sure to show us how it comes out.

SR