First Time Finishing

[BGuitars]

Alright, so this is my 2nd guitar and I'm trying to figure out the whole finishing thing. I don't know much about painting so simple or explained answers would be helpful. I've got the stain and paint how I want it, now I want to make it shine and be glossy. Because I used paint it's slightly rough right now. I figure I need to sand it down before applying anything else. I just don't know what I should use that won't take off the paint. I've got up to a 220 grit orbital hand sander, but I figure I'll need like a 320 grit or 400 grit sandpaper and do it lightly by hand. my question is, am I on the right track and if I am what should I do next towards getting that shining finish.

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Edited May 2, 2012 by BGuitars

[Juntunen Guitars]

Start with what you have done. It doesn't look like you painted it at all in the pictures unless it's really thin paint. If you describe more what you have done and what brands you used it will be easier to answer.

For gloss you will want to spray on clear lacquer then buff. If you have access to spray equipment like a gun and air compressor use nitrocelulose lacquer, if you don't you can usually get a decent look from rattle cans. I used to use rattle cans from "Cabot" it's a lacquer made or outdoor furniture I think but I'd just spray it on then scuff sand with 220 after the first coat and do a final level sand with 500 grit then rub with steel wool for a satin finish.

If I was you get some clear lacquer and scuff sand the guitar as is with 320 grit, litterally no more than just one or two passes across the whole guitar since you just want to knock down some of the raised finish and wood fibers. If it's really rough do a little more but not much. Spray your coats then level with 500 grit completely level then spray 2-3 more coats and wet sand with 1000 then 1200 grit, wait a week then buff it either by hand or with the foam pads you get from oriellys or stewmac and a power drill.

Explain a little what you have done first though so others can help more. What are you planning on using for equipment?

[BGuitars]

Start with what you have done. It doesn't look like you painted it at all in the pictures unless it's really thin paint. If you describe more what you have done and what brands you used it will be easier to answer.

For gloss you will want to spray on clear lacquer then buff. If you have access to spray equipment like a gun and air compressor use nitrocelulose lacquer, if you don't you can usually get a decent look from rattle cans. I used to use rattle cans from "Cabot" it's a lacquer made or outdoor furniture I think but I'd just spray it on then scuff sand with 220 after the first coat and do a final level sand with 500 grit then rub with steel wool for a satin finish.

If I was you get some clear lacquer and scuff sand the guitar as is with 320 grit, litterally no more than just one or two passes across the whole guitar since you just want to knock down some of the raised finish and wood fibers. If it's really rough do a little more but not much. Spray your coats then level with 500 grit completely level then spray 2-3 more coats and wet sand with 1000 then 1200 grit, wait a week then buff it either by hand or with the foam pads you get from oriellys or stewmac and a power drill.

Explain a little what you have done first though so others can help more. What are you planning on using for equipment?

Ok so what I did first was I used a rag to wipe down the wood first to raise the grain and just clean it. Then I took Rockler's transtint dye (black) mixed with water and rubbed it onto the wood with a clean rag till the whole thing was covered

Black dye

After that I used 220 grit sandpaper disc on my orbital hand sander to sand back the black but leave the black in grains.

After that I used a clean rag and spread white paint I got from home depot. Glidden moonlight white. I then applied about 2-3 coats and let dry between them. At then end if the stain looked too opaque and I couldn't see the stain. I wet the white paint rag and rubbed it on the white paint to dilute it slightly. I wanted to see the grain through the white paint.

That's as far as I got today.

[Juntunen Guitars]

Ok so what I did first was I used a rag to wipe down the wood first to raise the grain and just clean it. Then I took Rockler's transtint dye (black) mixed with water and rubbed it onto the wood with a clean rag till the whole thing was covered

Black dye

After that I used 220 grit sandpaper disc on my orbital hand sander to sand back the black but leave the black in grains.

After that I used a clean rag and spread white paint I got from home depot. Glidden moonlight white. I then applied about 2-3 coats and let dry between them. At then end if the stain looked too opaque and I couldn't see the stain. I wet the white paint rag and rubbed it on the white paint to dilute it slightly. I wanted to see the grain through the white paint.

That's as far as I got today.

Step 1: Sell the orbital sander When sanding a guitar you should do it by hand, a random orbital sander will leave scratches in every direction which will show up in the finish. Get a felt block and sand by hand.

You were right to wet the wood down first but you should have let it dry and then hit it with some 220 to scuff sand it, just a couple passes with the sandpaper to knock the grain off, if you get rid of those barely any will raise later on.

Honestly with a top like that I would just have left the dye on there instead of trying to paint over it. If you are looking for a finish like the blonde teles those were done with thinned out lacquer. I'm not really sure on the right way of doing it. I tred a little on some test pieces but couldn't get it to turn out right.

Now if you have it where you want it there isn't much you can do but spray a clear on. I'd use nitro if you can but there are other clears like polyurethane or even epoxy if you really want to but I would stick with lacquer.

I would scuff sand the paint a little, probably sand a little more than what I said to do for scuff sanding then spray clear. After several coats level sand with P500 grit until there are no more shiny spots in the lacquer. Spray a couple more (thinned if possible, if not that's fine? then it should be decent for no buffing. If you want to buff wet sand with 1000 grit then 1200 grit and buff from there. 3M makes a sanding disk at 1000 and 1200 grit that you can use dry and not have to wet sand, it works pretty nice but is a little expensive.

That's what I would do. I don't think you would have any problems with lacquer sticking to the paint as long as you scuff it first but I'm not sure, the only time I have worked with coloring wood besides staining was with colored nitro lacquer.

And I am no professional at this stuff, it's just the way I do this. Remember to sand with the grain not against it and if you use the 1000 or 1200 grit I will sand with the 1000 grit with the grain then the 1200 at a 45 degree angle to it so when I buff I can see what grit scratch is left then go back and touch it up.

[BGuitars]

Yeah, I was trying to find a white dye, but I guess there's no such thing lol

[supplebanana]

Yeah, I was trying to find a white dye, but I guess there's no such thing lol

yep there is.... Liberon make a water based one here in the UK

LIBERON CONCENTRATED WATER BASED WOOD DYE WHITE 15ml

got some sat here next to me right now...lol

[demonx]

I tend to disagree with the random orbital leaves scratches comment. (I'm talking in wood at the moment, not paint)

It's all about finding the right one and changing the grades of paper.

The guitar I made that is currently on the front page of this forum for winning guitar of the month was sanded with a random orbital.

I have 3 random orbitals. I only use one if them. The most expensive of the three is a makita and I just dont like it. Then I have two cheapo ozito's. One of them spins so fast it's basically a grinder, the other seems to have more control.

I'll use this to carve with 40 grit, then 120, then when I'm ready to paint I'll use it on flat surfaces to 320 which gives me a scratch free finish similar to if I hand sanded to 600.

I use it for sanding the neck also.

I DO NOT use it for sanding paint. I only hand sand paint.

Ie: different sanders will give different results.

When it comes to paint, I use 600 on all primer and then on the clear I start around 1000 if it looks like crap, or if I've done a good job of the clear I'll start at 2000 then 3000 before a buff.

[sdshirtman]

Alright, so this is my 2nd guitar and I'm trying to figure out the whole finishing thing. I don't know much about painting so simple or explained answers would be helpful. I've got the stain and paint how I want it, now I want to make it shine and be glossy. Because I used paint it's slightly rough right now. I figure I need to sand it down before applying anything else. I just don't know what I should use that won't take off the paint. I've got up to a 220 grit orbital hand sander, but I figure I'll need like a 320 grit or 400 grit sandpaper and do it lightly by hand. my question is, am I on the right track and if I am what should I do next towards getting that shining finish.

I can only see pics 1, 5 and 6. But for starters it doesnt look like you have any binding on the edges of that yet. You'll want that installed before you start laying down clear coats I think.

Anyways, everyones finishing prep steps are going to be slightly different. I raise the grain with water letting each application completely dry to let the grain swell then I knock it down with 320. I do this until it wont raise any longer. On the last step of raising the grain I use 400 by hand.

Next I start spraying coats (after stain of course) My definition of a coat is a nice even vertical side to side motion. Start the spray five or six inches before the sweep hits the guitar and keep spraying until after the spray is past the body a few inches. Continue to overlap the spray pattern by about 50%. Then I immediately do the same all over again in a horizontal motion. That a coat to me.

After I have a decent base of clear on the guitar, say 5 or six good coats, I knock back the orange peel with 400 grit again. Like everyone else said, just a bit. You can always repeat coats if necessary but its a drag if you sand through. Take your time.

I also agree with Demonx on the orbital sanders. If you use it with the correct grits it shouldn't leave marks. If you want more control over it you can use a router speed controller in front of it to tame it down. Then again nothing beats hand sanding for control.

When it comes to wet sanding I only use quality Japanese paper and start with 1200 grit. It cuts great and eliminates the risk of leaving lower grit scratches.

If you dont mind me saying. Thats a beautiful top on that. tTo each his own but are you sure you want to do such a simple finish on that?

That could look absolutely gorgeous with some colored dye on it.