jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 I just ordered a strat body and I want to do a burst... But not a typical burst. I'm wanting something I haven't seen that will involve some flake and kandy paint.... Here's my questions... 1. After body prep, can I use krylon for the base, airbrush for the kandy? 2. I want to sink the paint so as not to get it damaged, would a laquer or a lot of clear do better? I would like to use house of color all the way through but I don't have my auto paint set up anymore. I have never painted wood so I assume its a similar process as a Chevy or a Harley.... Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Also what major prep would be good? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Am I to assume you've never painted automotive paints? If this is the case I'd suggest not trying flake and candy as your first paint job. Being that you have "no equipment" leads me to think maybe try something basic?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 I used to paint a lot of cars motorcycles and the like. I have since sold off the equipment when I moved states. It's been a few years and since I am building a guitar, I'd like to do the paint. Is it possible to just use an airbrush set up for the edges and use a krylon spray can for the main thing? I want a 2 color burst. Also what clear would be good? Laquer or just a spray paint clear coat? Or should I just bury my pride and have it painted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 You can use cans ,both for paint and clear.There are threads already pined in here I think that go over this.I believe auto paint stores are where they get the supplies,so that should be right up your ally.The trick is to get the right maker of paint and clear,for best use.Good luck to ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Yeah the paint and clear makers is what I'm after. I am realizing tho the pickguard is going to cover a fair amount of the paint... I might just go another route. But thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 You can incorporate the pick guard into the paint sceam , but looking forward to your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 I would but I have a feeling I'll be switching pickguards a little. This is gonna be a player so I might not do a lot with the paint. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Also depends on the grain in the wood too. It may be a good candidate for a nice stain too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 If you've painted bikes and cars, then use the methods and paints you are used to. Only thing that is different is the paint will sink into the grain. You can either fill with grain filler, or fill it with bondo/bog before you prime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 That's what I thought demon. Ok. Well I'll wait to see how good the grain looks when I get it. I ordered a 2nd quality ash wood body from allparts. It was $60 so I hope it doesn't need much to go. The more I think about it, the more I wonder if it would be better to cover the wood. But that depends on the look of the body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 How hard is it to darken the grain blackish and stain over the top in a contrasting color? I would think there would be some sanding involved then a Laquer finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 It might be worthwhile mixing up a batch of dyed epoxy to solve the pore fill you need on Ash and grain enhancement you are looking for. Shame you didn't make the body as you do not have scrap to test this technique (which is a world away from auto stuff) with. Epoxy is of course unforgiving so perhaps a softer grain filler might make this stage easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I'm thinking to get a scrap of ash and playing with it. I'm so undecided at this point what to do with it. Is there a good reputable place for waterslide decals? I am using all Fender licensed parts and not seeking a serial number at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Plenty of places offer this service so they are not difficult to find although none spring to mind right now. I use laser printer decal paper which is why. Print your decal the right way around, apply a dust coat of lacquer to seal it and then release in water same as commercial products. You can embed these between layers of lacquer or apply to sealed wood. I bought my last paper from eBay which was convenient for just the two sheets I needed. One spare in case I screwed it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks man. The only issue is i dont have the printer. It broke in the last move and I think a guitar is more important than a printer right now! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Body showed up today... Anybody know what an allparts 2nd quality body marked "heavy rtv" means? The wood grain is nice so I think im looking at staining it after a few hours of sanding of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Update... Well all that could go wrong did Lmao! So I read about timber mate on a few other sites and saw a beautiful translucent blue Tele that had the grain treatment done to it with the timber mate. So I went to my local woodwork store (the people there were so much help and very nice, I will be going back there if I don't give up on building guitars!). I got some spray dealer and the timber mate stuff. I sanded the body down as directed then forgot the sealer (strike one) Then I put a mud thickness of timber mate on the body and waited for it to dry (strike two) As I was feverishly sanding, sweat dripped onto the body and the timbermate loosened, so I figured a light spray of water (not enough to damage, just a spritz and then wet a towel down to work the rest off) now I'm waiting for it to dry over night sa I can sand it down then add the sealer. I figure if worse comes to worse, I can rattle can it a few different coats different colors then sand it in a few spots to look worn. I think I can save it to stain it with reranch translucent blue, but I dunno. Anybody else have a comedy of first time errors and recover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 I wouldn't stress about what you described. I don't use sealers, I have, but I dont anymore. I've ben playing recently with the timber mate stuff, you can see a couple pics of it at the start of my "experimenting" thread. I put it on the raw neck, sanded and cleared. No other products. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46396&hl=%2Bsearls+%2Bexperimenting Hope those pics ease your mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Would it be a good idea to just sand off the rest and prime it for paint? I recently started to become enamored with the idea of a slightly worn aztec gold over an Olympic white to do a minor relic style... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Always a possibility ... Much more forgiving than a trans finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Since I'm planning a rattle can paint job, should I bother to clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 You just lost me at rattlecan, maybe someone else will take over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakespade77 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Lol sorry demon... Since I don't have my spray set up anymore, it wouldn't make sense to buy a few thousand in paint gear to use it this once and resell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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