milhouse Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I was working on a body this weekend and hit a snag. Its thin (~1.25" thick), and carved, and although i tripled-checked my measurements, I miscalculated and busted through the top while routing the control cavity. Any advice on how to repair this? Thanks in advance. Pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 i did almost the exact same thing once i cut a piece of wood and glued it back in the cavity then reworked it. you could still get away with a burst if your not wanting to paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I would cut a wood plug ,and glue in .Then recut the cavity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Good advice. Your only problem is that you need to cut your patch piece to fit the shape of the inside of the cavity. On that basis I think you would make it easier on yourself in the long run by cleaning up the rout straight. Yes, it will enlarge the hole a bit however you will have a flat surface and a better chance of a clean fit. In addition you should be able to move the new piece around to match the grain better than as not. I wish you luck on this save. Oh, do remember to strengthen the thin edges you have created also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milhouse Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Good advice. Your only problem is that you need to cut your patch piece to fit the shape of the inside of the cavity. On that basis I think you would make it easier on yourself in the long run by cleaning up the rout straight. Yes, it will enlarge the hole a bit however you will have a flat surface and a better chance of a clean fit. In addition you should be able to move the new piece around to match the grain better than as not. I wish you luck on this save. Oh, do remember to strengthen the thin edges you have created also. Thanks for the replies, everyone. Prostheta - when you say 'cleaning up the rout straight', what does that mean? Do I just square off the hole i created, or do I chop that whole section of the body off and match it up? i really want to keep this body clear, or stained with no filler (kind of like those black Washburn N4s). Would either of these options work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I just meant the inside of the cavity wall. It isn't going to be easy to fashion a repair part to fit that perfectly, whereas a straighter piece is far easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I just meant the inside of the cavity wall. It isn't going to be easy to fashion a repair part to fit that perfectly, whereas a straighter piece is far easier. +1 on that. Make it so a flat sided repair piece is glued in. Id also glue in a 3mm veneer into the bottom of the cavity to strenghten the thiner areas up. Then just do a burst to hide the repair. Maby even just an edge burst in black, similar to what I do on most of my Walnut guitars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSm Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 If you're going to paint it or have a really dark part os a burst there a cheap & nasty fix is sawdust & glue. You's need some sort of backing placed on the inside. Make sure you get really nice sawdust... (sorry ..) Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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