guitar2005 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 What kind of sanding sealer do you use? I used bullseye shellac with DEFT lacquer and on my 2005 Jem, the shrink back is minimal on the Korina body. It is only in the right light and angle that you can see it and that almost 10 years later. Maybe you need to wait more between coats and spray thinner coats so they flash off more easily? I totally understand your frustration with finishing. I took a break because it was all driving me crazy. I briefly switched to waterbased lacquers and on some guitars (the darker ones), that was a disaster. I'm now refinishing a pair of guitars for the 3rd time using tried and true products and techniques. One of them has a lecewood top and if you're ever worked with lacewood, you know how touchy it is to get it right. I'm not filling the pores on this one: Just spray finish on it. 2 coats every couple of days. The base coat was just thinned down lacquer. I'm ensuring that each coat is thin (max 4 mil) and that it has ample time flashing off before adding more on top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 When i used to use sanding sealer, i would use the minwax stuff. You cant use bullseye shellac under poly or 2k clear. I have just decided that it is 100% impossible to get what i want done correctly. Leading to the end of my career. 9 years of trying to get this right, and i dont see it changing anytime soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 When i used to use sanding sealer, i would use the minwax stuff. You cant use bullseye shellac under poly or 2k clear. I have just decided that it is 100% impossible to get what i want done correctly. Leading to the end of my career. 9 years of trying to get this right, and i dont see it changing anytime soon. Using the minwax is probably your 1st mistake IMO. That's amateur stuff. I've stopped using Minwax products a long time ago. Mohawk has a great lie of finishing products, including pore fillers. http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=105 But as another poster here already stated, a low viscosity epoxy is what you need if you want to stay with epoxy. With the normal, higher viscosity epoxies, I'd had the exact same experience as you. Try this stuff: http://www.woodessence.com/Clear-Coat-P146C18.aspx I might even try it and report back on my next builds, in the coming months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 I have used many different pore fillers. All have the same affect. They all still shrink back even though they claim they wont. I have used that exact epoxy before. The epoxy i currently used is extremely low viscosity, and is meant to be poured and used as a finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I would add information to qualify that shellac-under-2k/poly statement though, Luis. Shellac must be dewaxed before it can be used under those, or in fact many others. A lot of people recommend not using shellac under those coatings but don't specify any reasoning as to why not. Is your minwax shellac dewaxed? I know a lot of people stateside recommend Zinsser. The key is dewaxed though. I mix my own and use the blondest possible in light cuts for sealing. Anything sticks to it. That is how I started paint on my most recent bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I would add information to qualify that shellac-under-2k/poly statement though, Luis. Shellac must be dewaxed before it can be used under those, or in fact many others. A lot of people recommend not using shellac under those coatings but don't specify any reasoning as to why not. Is your minwax shellac dewaxed? I know a lot of people stateside recommend Zinsser. The key is dewaxed though. I mix my own and use the blondest possible in light cuts for sealing. Anything sticks to it. That is how I started paint on my most recent bass. The zinnser bullseye I use is dewaxed but is not compatible with EM6000 (ask me how I know ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Good information to have onboard though. Isn't that a water based finish? It's quite well established that water over shellac is a bad thing so I am not too surprised if that is the case. The Wood Whisperer channel on YouTube is useful in many ways as one Marc did a test on poly over shellac and demonstrated that it works as should be expected. Similarly, I have not directly come across issues with 2k over a shellac wash sealer. There are never guarantees on this stuff of course. Always test new combinations before committing to the workpiece I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I would add information to qualify that shellac-under-2k/poly statement though, Luis. Shellac must be dewaxed before it can be used under those, or in fact many others. A lot of people recommend not using shellac under those coatings but don't specify any reasoning as to why not. Is your minwax shellac dewaxed? I know a lot of people stateside recommend Zinsser. The key is dewaxed though. I mix my own and use the blondest possible in light cuts for sealing. Anything sticks to it. That is how I started paint on my most recent bass. I have never actually tried shellac. I was going to buy some of the bullseye shellac, but read the can and it said not to use under poly as a sealer or base. I am pretty sure it was the dewaxed kind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 From what I gather, that recommendation is overly cautious especially as it seems to be oft-repeated and not qualified by definitive reasoning. I've taken to using shellac quite a lot over the last year and it's the friendliest base I've had the pleasure to work with. The only thing it does not like is water it seems. I'll be very sad to see you give up building Luis. You've hit a really high standard recently. Maybe overcoming this epoxy issue might help ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.