59 Les Paul Guitar Build. My 1st Build

[ScottR]

Well done Chris!

Prostheta- it's comforting to know that I'm not the only one that invents new ways to screw up. Problem solving skills are important to hone, but I fear I take it to estremes sometimes.

SR

[Prostheta]

Never do something correctly the same way twice? I'm not sure if I would put that onto my CV.

[ScottR]

Har! Er........come to think of it, I'm not sure I've done anything exactly the same way twice. Various operations the same way --yes, in principal anyway. But thinking back, I discover that I may be a bit of a tweeker. Apply what I've learned from past builds to the next one and so on. My mistakes are more creative. Like the just finished clear coat buffing job that lept off the work bench as soon as I set it down, landing face down on the concrete floor. That's one I hope to never do twice.

SR

[Prostheta]

Yeah, please stop it with that.

[Chris G]

Every mistake i made or going to make, I have been learning from them. I know on my next build, the mistakes have made on this one will hopefully not happen, but there is always room for new challenges. Here is the progress going to re-wide a bit.

I was having problems finding a 3/16 straight bit for the truss rod channel and got a little head of myself. I glued the ears on the head stock.

Once I got the bit for the channel, I setup my process with to fences on the router table so my neck can follow the fences and get a straight route. Since I got a little head of myself with the ears I was not able to do that. I looked at some truss rod routing jigs and found a guy who used to long clamps, so the router could be guided by the clamps. It worked out really good. Here is a pic.

Once I got my channel routed it was time for the headstock access. I did not have a spotter face bit like everyone else has, so I went back to google and found another way. I flipped my table on the drill press vertical, clamped the neck to in and it worked out really well.

I was scared to go to deep with the drill press, so I finished with a file and rasps once I got my shape from the drill press.

Its not perfect but I can get a tool in there to adjust the nut.

Here is the first order for the guitar.

Cut the truss rod anchor, and rod.

One of my friends at work threaded the rod and pinned it. I did not take a pic of it.

The maple strip being glued into the neck.

A little left to take off the maple strip

Here is the first attempt on the control covers. Not to bad, but needs work. I am going to re-cut and shape another one. I also need to clean up route. Question for you all what is the best way to clean the control cover route?

And last but not least. Here is the custom head stock logo. This will go great with the black ebony veneer I got.

[Chris G]

What is the best way to clean up the control cover route and matching/cutting the cover? Also I am getting ready to cut my neck pocket and pickup ears. I know I route the pocket 1 1/2 deep on the same angle as the neck angle. With the ears trying to find some good info on other LP builds, but they do not go in much detail. Do I route the same depth as the neck? The ears are going to be deeper then the pickup route correct? Last question. On the bridge pickup the right pickup ear is going to be over the wire channel. This kinda confuses me with setup of the pickups. Will i just have a longer screw? I know these are noob questions I just need to know before I route. I have read some forums online but cannot find any ones that go into detail on the LP pickup routes. Any help explaining this or any online articles/forums that will help with the LP pickup routes would be great.

[ScottR]

Do a test mount of your pickups into the rings. Set the height to be flush with the surface of your rings. Since there is no reason for them to be adjusted any lower you can measure the length of your adjusting screw below the the bottom surface of the ring and likewise the lowest point of the pickup below the ring. Allow for a little clearance and you end up with a number that represents the depth you need for your ears and pickup routes. Note on an LP the bridge pup requires even less depth. As far as the ring mounting screw goes it will screw into the maple top before it punches into the wiring channel. You may want to make sure it is not so long that it extends into the channel where it could damage the wire.

Can you show a pic of your control cavity route? I'm not sure I'm understanding what needs cleaned up.

SR

[Chris G]

Do a test mount of your pickups into the rings. Set the height to be flush with the surface of your rings. Since there is no reason for them to be adjusted any lower you can measure the length of your adjusting screw below the the bottom surface of the ring and likewise the lowest point of the pickup below the ring. Allow for a little clearance and you end up with a number that represents the depth you need for your ears and pickup routes. Note on an LP the bridge pup requires even less depth. As far as the ring mounting screw goes it will screw into the maple top before it punches into the wiring channel. You may want to make sure it is not so long that it extends into the channel where it could damage the wire.

Thanks Scott!! I have not gotten the pups or rings yet. It will be a few weeks, since my car is in the shop and will cost 700. I am gong to get the StewMac Golden Age Parsons Street Humbuckers. The price on them is reasonable and got great reviews. Should I wait and do the routing when I get the pups in? After doing some more reading and looking closely at the pups, I know now that the mounting/adjustment screws will not be on the wire channel route.

Can you show a pic of your control cavity route? I'm not sure I'm understanding what needs cleaned up.

SR

Here is a pic.

As you can see I have a little dip from the router on the bottom. What is the best way to straighten that it up and re-cut a cover?

[ScottR]

Wait till you get them in. As you can see from your drawing the overlap tolerances are pretty tight. You want to make sure your hardware actually match the drawing before routing.

As far as your control cavity goes, I'd make a template just slightly larger than your cavity currently is--just enough to cut out the little dip. Then trace the opening of your template onto posterboard or something similar and cut the tracing out. Test its fit in your new template. Tweak as needed and then use that as a pattern to cut a template for your cover. Sand the edges carefully and test the fit often till you are satisfied. Use the new templates to repair your route and make a new cover. Similar to this:

If possible try to cut your new cover with the grain oriented in the same directions as the back. You canlay some thin paper over your cavity and trace the opening and the grain lines as they interesect the opening enough to show direction anyway. You can lay that tracing over the wood you are going to use for the cover and use it to line the grain in the most pleasing way your wood allows.

SR

[Chris G]

Wait till you get them in. As you can see from your drawing the overlap tolerances are pretty tight. You want to make sure your hardware actually match the drawing before routing.

As far as your control cavity goes, I'd make a template just slightly larger than your cavity currently is--just enough to cut out the little dip. Then trace the opening of your template onto posterboard or something similar and cut the tracing out. Test its fit in your new template. Tweak as needed and then use that as a pattern to cut a template for your cover. Sand the edges carefully and test the fit often till you are satisfied. Use the new templates to repair your route and make a new cover. Similar to this:

If possible try to cut your new cover with the grain oriented in the same directions as the back. You canlay some thin paper over your cavity and trace the opening and the grain lines as they interesect the opening enough to show direction anyway. You can lay that tracing over the wood you are going to use for the cover and use it to line the grain in the most pleasing way your wood allows.

SR

Thanks again Scott!! I will wait to get the pups before I route. I will look over that posting and you are correct on the wood grain direction. I knew I was going to redo that part, but wanted to get the route fixed first.

[Chris G]

First off the question about mounting the pickups was a real stupid question. After reading some more and looking at pickups to get, I realized that I was overlooking that the pickups mount to the rings and not the body. I will understand if you all throw me off the site.

I am so happy about my self right now. I was able to do a very crucial task and not F it up. I routed my tenon pocket tonight. This stage I have been thinking about the most. When the neck is connected to the body. I still have some more work on my tenon, but should have it done in a few days. Here is some pictures.

Almost done.

Now I was scared that the front end measurement was going to be different from the back end and that it would be off.

Here is the back end and its the same.

The last thing I did tonight was glue the ebony veneer together.

[cs51762]

Hey, Chris, your build is very interesting. Thanks for sharing. Quick question. Where did you get the drawings that you're using (and have on the wall)? Thanks.

Mike Fields

[ProjectGuitar.com]

It looks like this plan.

 1950s-Les-Paul-PDF-blueprint[1].pdf

[ScottR]

Pros-

When I tried to use that link I got a message saying my account did not have access to that area....

I expect that may mean others do not either.

SR

[Chris G]

Hey, Chris, your build is very interesting. Thanks for sharing. Quick question. Where did you get the drawings that you're using (and have on the wall)? Thanks.

Mike Fields

I googled the plains. You see on is a stewmac and they do not offer then anymore, but if you google it, go to images you can find the full scale plans that others have posted on there forms. If the admins allow I can post them here. I have 4 plans. When printing them you will want to use a plotter printer. Printing services stores will be able to print the full scale out. Luckily we have a plotter here at my work. 

Pros-

When I tried to use that link I got a message saying my account did not have access to that area....

I expect that may mean others do not either.

SR

I am unable to access the attachment also.

 

Tonight I will post my progress. Head stock almost done and got the binding almost finished.

[Prostheta]

Good call. I'll have a look at permissions. Things like this have changed silently in the upgrade. 

[Chris G]

The ebony has been glued and truss rod access cut.

Headstock template is on ready to cut.

Pilot holes drilled for tuners.

Headstock logo. that will be a fun process to inlay.

Binding Time!! I started out getting the binding shaped to the body before I started the gluing process. I wanted to make sure all the curves were molded to the binding. I let that sit for a few days.

Got everything ready for the gluing process. I made the glue out of melted binding and acetone.

I used some clamps to make sure the binding had enough presser on some of the curves

Halfway done!

Getting the horn.

And done! took about 2 hours.

Binding is done drying.

Had a few gaps but it came out better then I thought!

The recuve was a little tricky. I made sure there was enough glue behind and had some squeeze out.

Scrapping and sanding. That was very time consuming.

All the binding is flush with the body. I still need to do a little clean up but not much.

Here is the neck on the body.

I am going have time this weekend to get some more done. I going to try and have the headstock finished, binding, control cavity and covers, and get the neck to match up with the body perfect.

I have not gotten my pickups yet. I am on a tight budget and wanted to know from you all a good pickup set for under a 100, but would like to stay around 60? I want a PAF style, but want them a little hotter. I will probably do the StewMac pickups, but wanted to here what you all had to say.

[ScottR]

I've always heard good things about Irongear pups both on price and sound.

http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_pickups_006.htm

I've never looked into getting some on this side of the pond though.

SR

[Chris G]

I've always heard good things about Irongear pups both on price and sound.

http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_pickups_006.htm

I've never looked into getting some on this side of the pond though.

SR

Thanks Scott!!! I think I found my pickups. For the pickups wiring kit and shipping is 100.00 I can deal with that! I listened to the sound clips and sound great!!  I going to go with the Tesla Shark. Here is the link.

http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_pickups_031.htm

Still contemplating the Nickel cover or Zebras.  I will order them in a few weeks.

[Prostheta]

For the price you're not going to do much better I think. I wouldn't mind trying out a few of the IronGear pickups myself.

[Chris G]

For the price you're not going to do much better I think. I wouldn't mind trying out a few of the IronGear pickups myself.

I know with Pickups and wiring kit it beets stewmac by 70 bucks. Even the shipping from the UK is cheaper then stewmacs. I have been looking at the GFS Slick pickups also. Here is a link. http://www.guitarfetish.com/Slick-Aged-PIckups_c_494.html

The only problem with these is they dont have the old school style. I put my name in to notify me when they are available. They do have the ones that are hotter but dont know if I want to go that hot.

OK Guys, Before I screw this up I need some help. I cannot get my neck flush with the body. Before I take to much off and screw the scale up I thought I would ask you.  Here are some pics.

[ScottR]

If you have not yet drilled the post holes for your bridge, your scale is still safe. You always want to wait till your neck is set before locating the bridge anyway. You are looking at the results of sloppy sanding. You want to get a hard flat sanding block and carefully sand the shoulders of the guitar and heel. All the edges and corners should be sharp. Any rounding will look like a gap. I don't think you are going to get a gunstock perfect fit, but you should be able to improve the look greatly.

SR

[Prostheta]

The butt joint around the neck shoulders having gaps is not important as that type has no functional strength. That is more aesthetics than anything else. The tenon is the business end. Given that it is gappy, epoxy might be a good option otherwise the neck might just not develop enough contact area joint strength with simple PVA/aliphatics.

I'd say that it's a good time to take stock of what you've learnt through this build, figure out what didn't work and what did and apply that to your next build. Pouring more money into this project is probably a mistake; use the experience and grounding to make a second instrument. You've hit most of the usual snags in this one, solved a few issues and revealed the difficulties. Certainly don't scrap this one; take it to completion, but save your good hardware and pickups for the next build....which will be 500% better!

[crazygtr]

The butt joint around the neck shoulders having gaps is not important as that type has no functional strength. That is more aesthetics than anything else. The tenon is the business end. Given that it is gappy, epoxy might be a good option otherwise the neck might just not develop enough contact area joint strength with simple PVA/aliphatics.

I'd say that it's a good time to take stock of what you've learnt through this build, figure out what didn't work and what did and apply that to your next build. Pouring more money into this project is probably a mistake; use the experience and grounding to make a second instrument. You've hit most of the usual snags in this one, solved a few issues and revealed the difficulties. Certainly don't scrap this one; take it to completion, but save your good hardware and pickups for the next build....which will be 500% better!

^ this is good advice.

[Chris G]

The butt joint around the neck shoulders having gaps is not important as that type has no functional strength. That is more aesthetics than anything else. The tenon is the business end. Given that it is gappy, epoxy might be a good option otherwise the neck might just not develop enough contact area joint strength with simple PVA/aliphatics.

I'd say that it's a good time to take stock of what you've learnt through this build, figure out what didn't work and what did and apply that to your next build. Pouring more money into this project is probably a mistake; use the experience and grounding to make a second instrument. You've hit most of the usual snags in this one, solved a few issues and revealed the difficulties. Certainly don't scrap this one; take it to completion, but save your good hardware and pickups for the next build....which will be 500% better!

Thanks for the advice. I do agree, I have made a lot of mistakes and learned from them. There is no way gong to scrap this project, but I will get cheaper hardware to start with and if I get lucky and the guitar turns out better then I thought I will upgrade the hardware. I am going to read up on repairing lose neck tenon. I should be able to add some veneer to it and get the tightness back. 

If you have not yet drilled the post holes for your bridge, your scale is still safe. You always want to wait till your neck is set before locating the bridge anyway. You are looking at the results of sloppy sanding. You want to get a hard flat sanding block and carefully sand the shoulders of the guitar and heel. All the edges and corners should be sharp. Any rounding will look like a gap. I don't think you are going to get a gunstock perfect fit, but you should be able to improve the look greatly.

SR

I have come up with a simple sanding jig that will straighten it up. If there are gaps no big deal, I just wanted to be as close as I can.

Thanks Guys! This build will get finished and I will have learned a great deal!