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Posted

Hey, I'm in the middle of pulling the guts out of a cheapy guitar ($39 - SCORE!) before wiring it up again, andI'm trying to follow one of those free SD diagrams, but of course their little pictures aren't translating in my head into what it is exactly i'm looking at from the inside of this guitar, so I need a little help...

IMG_1106.JPGIMG_1109.JPG

Basically, from left to right, we have - 1+2 soldered together / 2 - to one pickup / 3 is wired to 5 / 4 is wired to the volume pot / 6 - to the other pickup / 6+7 soldered together, and as you can see that last wire soldered to the 'box' is the grounding wire for the tone pot... well, you can't see it, see it, but you know what I mean.

Anyway, can anybody tell me how all the above translates to this diagram component?

IMG_1112.JPG

Thanks.

Posted

Are you wanting to keep the original switch or replace it with the one shown in the last image? Is the wiring soldered to the switch your work, or is that how the switch was wired when you pulled apart the guitar?

Unless you know what the internals of those PCB-based switches are, they can be difficult to translate across different diagrams. If you have a manufacturer's part number it might help decode how the switch works.

Posted

The switch in the first two pictures is how it was wired when I opened up the guitar.

There's no numbers of any kind on the card at all, and I've tried going by an image search on Google, without success. I can kind of see how it does what it does, but the Seymour Duncan wiring diagrams can be a touch too specific, so it might just be a guessing game for now.

Posted

My guess is that the switch already does the same thing as the Seymour Duncan wiring diagram shows - Bridge, Bridge+Neck, Neck - just in a more roundabout way.

If that's the case the only things you'd need to take note of is where the two pickup leads go on the switch and the wire going to the volume pot. Given two inputs and one output there's only so many ways to wire it up.

Posted

It's an odd switch because....seven contacts is strange....as is the way the outer throws are bridges with no through drilling. Personally, I'd swap it out for a new known part. They're a few dollars at worst and more than likely to conform to the wiring diagrams littering the Interwebs. That's not to say that you can't make this one work, however you'd probably need to shine a flashlight through the SRBF PCB and figure out the contact/trace pattern, or figure it out with a continuity meter.

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