stevefister Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 Hey, I am trying to create a PRS-style look on my quitar body (kit Saga HT-10). I finally got the stain mix just right and went to apply it to the body. Well, wouldn't you know they sealed the body with some crap that won't let the stain take. Anybody know the best thing to use to take whatever this stuff is off? I tried the safe route Orange stripper...didn't do crap. I ordered a can of the Peel Away 6 which is supposed to not damage veneers or raise the grain... Anybody with similar experience on removing this stuff, I'd like to hear from you. Thanks!! <steve> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 sandpaper is compatible with removing all finishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGM Guitars Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 You'll find that trying to remove that finish without going through that paper thin veneer is next to impossible. I have one too that I've just been messing with off and on, I put a new veneer on it, if you vacuum bag it it's not to bad to get the veneer over the curves. I sanded off that sealer on mine and it was like seconds after getting through the sealer that I was through the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 I'll see if I can get the picture of my other computer but somebody sent one to me of an awesome blue over the veneer. I'm not sure if he just coated it with a translucent finish or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefister Posted February 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 Ok...well, from reading other people's info on sanding the veneer...I was hoping that would be my last resort as it is so thin. Hopefully the Peel Away will come in tomorrow and I'll give that a try... Yeah, that's exactly the color I wanted...I bought some test maple veneers to try out some color combinations...the best one I found was to put down an initial layer of black transparent stain and then sand down the "high" points of the veneer, removing the black from them. Then using two coats of a blue transparent stain....and everything looks nice! I am actually amazed that Saga builds this body with a real pretty maple veneer and then coats the whole thing?! Their instructions assume that you are going to paint the thing...but why put such a nice (relatively speaking) veneer on it if you won't see it? Well, either way...it's a fun project...I just can't wait to get all the staining and clearcoating done so I can put it together!!! Thanks for the feedback! <steve> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 That Peel Away stuff might eat the glue that holds the veneer on. you're best bet is to probably just add the desired color to your clear and finish it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 That Peel Away stuff might eat the glue that holds the veneer on. you're best bet is to probably just add the desired color to your clear and finish it that way Thats pretty close to the PRS method from what I know anyways. Tinted clears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptMysterio Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 if you want to blow some money, you could throw on some candies (tinted clears). should end up looking like the same effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 That Peel Away stuff might eat the glue that holds the veneer on. you're best bet is to probably just add the desired color to your clear and finish it that way Thats pretty close to the PRS method from what I know anyways. Tinted clears. No they're dyed first then sprayed either with straight clear or tinted depending on the "recipe" for that particular color Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefister Posted February 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2004 Hey all...thanks for the replies. I decided that I couldn't wait for the peel away to come in the mail so I went to the hardware store and picked up some spray medium duty stripper. I put the stuff on TWICE...and it still didn't take it off....I finally gave up then figuring with my luck I would end up screwing up the entire body... I had to go with plan 2...I purchased this paint called DupliColor Mirage which is a color shifting paint..I got the blue to red pack which comes with a base black, a middle "color" and a top coat clear in a 3 spray can kit. I made this cheap little guitar body stand using a particle board "round" with a threaded pipe mount base (3/8") screwed to it. I screwed in a 12 inch iron pipe. That is the "swivel" base. I also picked up a 2 foot 1/2" PVC pipe and screwed it to the guitar body at the neck mount. This works great for keeping a hand free and holding the body up...and swiveling. I got the base black coat on with 3 coats. I then put two coats of the "color" coat on...but when I lifted the guitar up off the iron pipe, I went a little too high and scratched the front of the guitar on my bicycle handlebar which is hanging from my garage rafters.... Damn!!! So...I guess I should wait for the paint that is on there to fully dry and then break out the sandpaper to try and diminish the scratch.. Anybody have done a bonehead thing like this before? What is the best thing to do with the paint scratch in wet paint?....(it took a couple of layers of the paint right off...so it looks like a pretty deep gouge...didn't get the wood luckily!!) THanks All!! <steve> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 10, 2004 Report Share Posted February 10, 2004 Been there/done that and let it dry, smooth it out with the finest grit you can stand working with and repeat the process of painting, just skip the moving and banging part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefister Posted February 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2004 Thanks Brian...I kinda figured there was only one way around it...and you mentioned it. So, that's what I did. I was able to sand it down...but ended up going through the primer down to the wood becuase the gouge was so deep...but I was able to use 1000 grit to level the entire area and throw a splash of primer down and then some more color coats...looks pretty good. Pheww...saved that one! Hey...maybe you know. I think the clear coat is a poly of some sort. Is there a major difference in hardness between a poly and a nitro coating? Thanks! <steve> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 11, 2004 Report Share Posted February 11, 2004 Technically Nitro never truely dries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BTravis02 Posted February 11, 2004 Report Share Posted February 11, 2004 In the Saga Manual. it clearly says that it is sanding sealed. If you read the directions on 90% of wood stains they say make sure that the wood isnt sealed. The only Way you can get the desired PRS look is to Do a Candy clear coating process. This is baiscally laying a clear...then tenting and overcoating each with a little more clear. I succesfully have finished my HT-10 KIT but...THE NECK IS TWISTED...AND I CANT SEEM to get any help from the person i bought it off. /\ | | | Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Hi BTravis02 and welcome to the forum I answered your e-mail..............Still awaiting a reply from you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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