ok, so say you had to wire this up in a 339... and you were aware of the unshielded-ness of the situation...

[mistermikev]

so... this is a (gulp) rewire of a 339.  previous adventures have made me keenly aware of the need for shielding of these wires.  dragging said wire through a 339 cavity is going to become very difficult if you tried to use all 2/4 conductor to keep it shielded.  really, it'd be a much better plan to use a 4p4t as it would not only give better options, but it would keep all the pickup wires in one spot... sadly 4p4t are very hard to come buy in the size that will fit through an f hole.  I have one alpha one left... and for now I'm hanging on to it as the source dried up.  So we are getting the most we can out of a 2p4t... and this is going to make shielding the wires complicated.  

one strategy... is to use 2 conductor for two sets of bridge wires... this works out ok.  one two conductor wire will take care of the neck-most wire set for the neck bucker.  then it becomes next to impossible to make pairs and using single conductor shielded wire will make this harness into a gorilla.  (I know what you are thinking... it IS a gorilla already - fair enough).

so... I could rip the shield from some push back wire... and pass perhaps 4 wires through it... not a great option.  What I'd really like is something I can wrap around groups of wire after it's wired up (as opposed to passing through).  So... could take copper foil and wrap it... then ground the foil at one side... not going to be very flexible after wrapped.  

Just wondering... any interesting/creative ideas for shielding the wires and remaining felxible?

 

[curtisa]

How far away is the rotary switch from the other controls? If they're only a couple of inches apart I'd be tempted to just run shielded cable from the pickups as far as you can and just use the exposed tails from each 4-conductor cable to reach where you need it to for each control.

[curtisa]

If you're dead set on shielding everything as completely as possible, what about splicing extra lengths of shielded 4-conductor wire at each point along the pickup cable run where you need to break out one core? For example, you'd cut and strip the pickup lead where you need the red wire to take off, extend the cut end of the remaining three cores and shield with another piece of 4-conductor (minus the red core), seal the splice up with heatshrink and continue to the next stop. Fiddly, but maintains the shielding as far as possible.

[mistermikev]

5 hours ago, curtisa said:

How far away is the rotary switch from the other controls? If they're only a couple of inches apart I'd be tempted to just run shielded cable from the pickups as far as you can and just use the exposed tails from each 4-conductor cable to reach where you need it to for each control.

 

5 hours ago, curtisa said:

If you're dead set on shielding everything as completely as possible, what about splicing extra lengths of shielded 4-conductor wire at each point along the pickup cable run where you need to break out one core? For example, you'd cut and strip the pickup lead where you need the red wire to take off, extend the cut end of the remaining three cores and shield with another piece of 4-conductor (minus the red core), seal the splice up with heatshrink and continue to the next stop. Fiddly, but maintains the shielding as far as possible.

the second option here - I like that.  would be a bit of micro surgery but that would satisfy all my conditions.  thank you for the suggestion.  all the spans are pretty close... between 1 and 2 inches apart.  Keeping the the unshielded runs as short as possible is def key.  

def not looking fwd to the pull through as it is always a pita.  

thanks again for the suggestion.