henrim Posted January 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 35 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Yours has a much superior strength in that specific point That area was my biggest concern when I drew this thing. In many ways the design is a compromise. It took me several months after starting this thread to actually start the build. Meanwhile I realised this guitar may not be "the verdict" the thread title implies. Wanted to go on regardless. I'm confident that it will become a playable instrument but with the design I have introduced way more new issues than I was trying to resolve. Anyhow there are new things to incorporate in to the next build. But it will not have this same neck mount. Something like aluminium or carbon fibre would be more ideal materials for this type neck. But I'm not going there since I want my guitars to have a wooden neck. As such the neck is way too complicated to make (without cnc at least). Also against my knowledge I wanted to try to use birch for the neck. I'm still happy I tried but at the same time I know I'm not going to do that again (heat treated, maybe). Even if it somehow holds straight it's too soft to work with. The nice thing about the design is that the string tension alone is enough to keep the body and neck together (obviously bolting them together adds strength). Could be interesting to try to make the body act as a tremolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 11 hours ago, henrim said: ~950mm radius Heh, that’s not quite right. 475mm would probably be closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 13, 2023 Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 That's all part of the fun, at least for me anyway. I enjoy the process and the mental exercise more than having to reach the end goal. Of course, that's always good, however I do think that upping one's abilities, trying new challenges and building on previous experiences and new information keeps life interesting. It's the journey, not about the podium. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2023 Did some chiseling as the body doesn’t fit in to my mill and I couldn’t figure any easy way to route the channels either. Anyway now there is channels for the cables and a slot for connecting the cables. Either a simple PCB or maybe an old-school tag-board. Other than that the body is shaped and sanded to 120. So it’s ready to be finish sanded. And then ebonized. Although now that I look it the way it is right now I’m not so sure about blackening it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2023 Btw I will have to put pickup adjustment screws on the top side. I like the way they can be adjusted from the back on my black single cut but there is no convenient way to do it that way on this guitar as the neck is on the way. I had thought about having adjustment holes in the neck but that was a half assed thought and can’t make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 I just realized I was missing three of those set screws that are used to set the string height on the bridge. I remember dropping the bridge on the floor the other day. Maybe they went missing then. At least the two I miraculously found from the floor gaps (along with some other screws, washers and drill bits. One is still missing and there is a good chance I never find it. I don’t have a spare of that size. Haven’t even measured the size but I highly doubt it’s metric. I wouldn’t like to make an order for just one screw, because I know what happens if I do. There won’t be just one screw in the order but a huge parcel stuffed with something I think I may need some day… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 16, 2023 Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 7 minutes ago, henrim said: Haven’t even measured the size but I highly doubt it’s metric. I lost some on my Chinese bridge and to my surprise they were standard M3. The local screw shop had those in various lengths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 5 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: I lost some on my Chinese bridge and to my surprise they were standard M3. The local screw shop had those in various lengths. M3 doesn’t fit. According to Hipshot they are 4-40. Whatever that means. I keep searching a bit before I order a few pedals, Marshall stack and a screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 16, 2023 Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 Uraltone sells them: https://uraltone.com/4-40-x-3-8-kannaton-ruuvi-straton-tallaan-kielten-korkeuden-saatoon.html This tells about unc sizes: https://themetricmaven.com/without-metric-threads-were-screwed/ And here you can find the exact measurements of 4-40 and others: https://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/unified-coarse-thread.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 Thanks! I started vacuuming with the shop vac and listened what dropped to the metal bin. Few other screws went in before the right one was found! But it’s good to know Uraltone stocks them. I do frequently buy from them. What comes to imperial sizes I was just trying to be witty with “whatever that is”. Sorry about that. I have to deal with them more than I would like to. I have this Chevy from early nineties which is a mess. Not because of imperial bolts and screws but because about half of the screws and bolts are actually metric. And it’s not always straightforward to tell which is which. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 Ok. So I decided not to do a pcb because I don’t like the idea to solder wires directly to a pcb as the connections may get easily broken. And I don’t have the space for connectors. Instead I came up with a solution where I can solder wires together and hold them in place with a pressure plate. Why all this? Because I need to keep everything flat to be able to slide the neck in. Which has to slid in because the fretboard is wider than the neck in the body end. Neck pocket has straight angled sides. I may still have to route a couple of grooves to the inside of the neck extension to allow long pickup screws. Which may not be needed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 17, 2023 Report Share Posted January 17, 2023 Adding a drill hole next to a pad allows you to strain relieve wire connectors. It does add to the finished depth of the board of course. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2023 Etched logo to the wire cover plate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostdive Posted January 18, 2023 Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 Seeing all of the wires in their proper places is so pleasing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 I was hoping to get into ebonizing business but I found out yesterday that the batch of ferric acetate solution I made a few weeks ago was bad. All brown. That doesn’t work. Several possible causes but nothing to do but mix a new solution. Should be ready in a few days/week. Meanwhile I started to apply tannin solution to the body (that suspicious looking substance in the picture ). Swamp ash doesn’t have much tannins so it would turn ugly muddy brown without adding tannins. First layer raised the grain good and I continue to apply a few more coats, sanding in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 34 minutes ago, henrim said: the batch of ferric acetate solution I made a few weeks ago was bad. All brown. Whoa! What colour should it be? Mine is also brown... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 Technically what you want is Iron (III) Oxide. Clean your wire wool with acetone to remove grease and contaminants. Steel wool isn't ideal, but it's quick. Heat the vinegar first and keep it warm. Strain through a coffee filter or two. It's probably what you're already doing anyway! Edit: Brain dumb. Iron iii acetate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 Well, I used steel wool but didn't clean it. And I used vinegar acid but that's just less water, isn't it? And I didn't heat it up, just kept it in room temperature until the steel wool had vanished. Filtered the stuff, though. Pretty much what the YouTube videos show, they don't clean or heat anything either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 20 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Technically what you want is Iron (III) Oxide. Clean your wire wool with acetone to remove grease and contaminants. Steel wool isn't ideal, but it's quick. Heat the vinegar first and keep it warm. Strain through a coffee filter or two. It's probably what you're already doing anyway! It is pretty much what I do. Yesterday I made a new batch and cleaned the steel wool with acetone. I have done it with various different degreasers in the past with success without getting rust. I heated the vinegar and now it is sitting on top of a radiator. I believe the last batch was in too cold place and there was water in the steel wool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 31 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Whoa! What colour should it be? Mine is also brown... What have worked for me has been clear with bluish grey tint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 Ahh, the YouTubers' stuff has mostly been brown. There was one that showed a bluish one made out of steel wool but was it still under progress, I don't know. He also had a bunch of nails in water which had become all black and if I understood correctly, that liquid was to be mixed with vinegar. Guess I'll have to do a new batch! [edit] Found a short article talking about iron (II) and iron (III) acetate, the Roman numbers telling the oxidation state of the iron. (II) was bluish clear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 1 minute ago, Bizman62 said: Guess I'll have to do a new batch! Try it out first. I tried the previous batch on a piece of oak and within a few seconds it was clear that it doesn’t work. With proper solution you get instant black on oak but that only turned slowly brown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 8 minutes ago, henrim said: Try it out first. Oh joy! Tried it on several offcuts of various woods. Walnut turned pitch black, a multi-laminate piece of a neck got various shades of grey. As did my finger which I used for spreading... So it still works! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: Technically what you want is Iron (III) Oxide Right, yes. The process can happen in unexpected places. I was in that hotel the other day where they had very nice trays (or a set of trays that formed a box with a lid) made of oak for servicing breakfast. Nice otherwise but they had black streaks on the bottom surfaces. Apparently they used vinegar solution to wipe the trays clean and put them in a stainless steel rack to dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 (edited) Sawed a bone headstock emblem. (Edit: I was supposed to upload a photo where the one made of bone was sharp. But never mind ) Edited January 19, 2023 by henrim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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