The pointiest build

[nakedzen]

I wanted to build a floyd equipped guitar since I've never owned a good one, and it's been over 20 years since I owned a bad one.

So why not make it extremely pointy as well. Inspired by the Hondo Death Dagger shape:

 

[Bizman62]

I see a ladies' ankle boot there...

[JGTay]

2 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

I see a ladies' ankle boot there...

Now you've gone and done it... I will only be able to see that with this build now.

[nakedzen]

Just for biz.

 

[avengers63]

Thanks, y'all! This starts my day off with a belly laugh. 

[nakedzen]

This will be a black limba neckthrough. Render with wood texture, while I wait for them to arrive.

Anyone used ziricote as fretboard wood before? I'd think it's too splintery? Just saw stewmac has those available.

[nakedzen]

Got the wood finally. Some flame going on on the wing pieces too.

 

[nakedzen]

Wire and truss channel routed, glued the wings on. We'll see if I'll regret doing it this early.

 

[nakedzen]

Here's how it started

Here's how it's going

Hand tools are much more dangerous than power tools it seems. Managed to hold onto the work piece and saw into my hand with the other side of the pull saw. Needed two stitches. Good thing about hand tools though, you very quickly stop doing further damage!

[Bizman62]

Ouch!

Any tool is dangerous if you don't follow common safety rules.

You wouldn't have held onto the workpiece with your hand if you had used any sort of handheld power saw, would you?

That said, don't ask about the scars in my hands...

[nakedzen]

Exactly, hence the remark hand tools are more dangerous. Since you get complacent with them too easily.

[avengers63]

I cut through about  3/8" of my fingertip once - nail and all. About 1/32" of nail held it together.  About half of it reattached. The rest grew back, but there's no feeling there.

[nakedzen]

Ouch. Makes me eye those new bandsaws that shut down if you bring your fingers near the danger zone.

[henrim]

I have been stitched a few times after a hand tool mishap. Nothing severe though and I have never been hospitalized from a power tool accident. Couple of years ago I got a reminder though, that hospital may not be the place to go after such accident. I somehow misplaced a vernier on top of the miter saw and sawed away until there were pieces of carbide flying in the air. Judging how the pieces penetrated the concrete wall I guess I was lucky that non off them hit my head or body. I did have safety glasses though

[nakedzen]

And after the incident... moving on

Some rough cleaning later. Can't decide if I'll use this padauk for the fretboard, or order some ebony. But I always use ebony so it's kind of boring.

[nakedzen]

Fret slots done, routed the top edge of the fretboard flush to the template, the bottom I'll do against the neck once it's glued on. Gouged some material out from the neck and heel.

 

[avengers63]

Just in case you didn't know: Paduk is an amazing reddish brown that nearly glows when its freshly worked. A year later it's a dark, rich reddish brown. But the sapwood doesn't darken appreciably. So sometime next year, that fretboard will have an amazing level of contrast. I highly encourage you to get the line of demarcation as close to the middle as possible for maximum impact. 

[nakedzen]

8 hours ago, avengers63 said:

Just in case you didn't know: Paduk is an amazing reddish brown that nearly glows when its freshly worked. A year later it's a dark, rich reddish brown. But the sapwood doesn't darken appreciably. So sometime next year, that fretboard will have an amazing level of contrast. I highly encourage you to get the line of demarcation as close to the middle as possible for maximum impact. 

How do you like to finish padauk? I believe it needs something like maple?

[henrim]

2 hours ago, nakedzen said:

How do you like to finish padauk? I believe it needs something like maple?

I believe some people leave them raw. I put a dab of oil on the one I made. Padouk is more open grain and lighter colour that for example rosewood so it does suck dirt in it. If I was to make an other one I'd possibly use a little more oil. Raw or lightly oiled padouk gets considerably darker in less time than a clear coated or shellac treated surface.

[avengers63]

2 hours ago, henrim said:

Raw or lightly oiled padouk gets considerably darker in less time than a clear coated or shellac treated surface.

What he said.

Nothing will stop it from darkening. In your case, I would put a barrier finish like lacquer on it for the same reason you'd do that to a maple board. The sap wood will get filthy in a hurry.

[nakedzen]

I don't mind darkening, it'll fit better with the korina. How about ca fill, then tru oil? My usual go to, and I have it already. Lacquer I'd need to order from somewhere, and I don't have the space or tools to spray so it'd be something like britetone. I'd prefer to have a natural look, tru oil gloss is the most I'd go with.

[avengers63]

Any given barrier finish can be used to pore fill. You simply have to sand-back until the pores are filled. If you use c/a, you'll almost certainly seal the area around the pores, preventing the oil from penetrating.

Strictly speaking, you don't HAVE to pore fill the fretboard. But if you don't you'll risk the pores filling up with gunk.

[nakedzen]

I guess I'll pore fill with shellac then.

 

Also, well shit

Fix doesn't look too awful from a distance. I guess. It's a personal guitar so I'm fine with that.

[avengers63]

12 minutes ago, nakedzen said:

Also, well shit

 

I feel ya.

If you had any idea how many times something like that has happened to me.....

[Bizman62]

11 hours ago, avengers63 said:

If you had any idea how many times something like that has happened to me.....

To any one of us, to be precise. There's reglued splinters in each of my builds, often more than just one.

Am I seeing right, did you make it worse before making it better? I mean, did you cut more wood off down to the fret slot instead of trying to make a smaller patch?