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Neck scale length


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Helloo.. I'm ordering a neck and body from Warmoth and I'd like a 24 and 3/4" scale length.. Thing is that I'm worried about intonation problems.. Is there anything I've got to look out for or anything I've got to specify to the dudes at Warmoth regarding the body?? This is a first time project, so assume I know absolutely nothing about guitars... Which is kinda true, anyway.. :D Thanks for the help!!

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Interesting though, the site says that the 24 3/4" scale necks are a direct replacement for fender necks. The same goes for their baritone range as well. It sounds like they dont adjust the bodies in any way, perhaps they dont intonate properly?

(i wondered the same thing when looking at their baritone necks a while back)

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  • 9 months later...

This is kind of along the right lines, so here goes:

I'm rebuilding an old Tele Thinline body i picked up, and chose to use a 24.75" scale length neck from Warmoth.

Now having put laid everything out, the heel isn't as far up the neck as i expected, to allow the correct scale length.

Currently, the scale length stands at 25-1/8".

The bridge saddles can't move the required 3/8" to negate this effect.

I assume that were i to piece it together now, intonation would be, well, shocking.

Have i overlooked something obvious/important, or is my only option to take 3/8" off the neck pocket, thus moving the neck further into the body?

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  • 3 weeks later...
This is kind of along the right lines, so here goes:

I'm rebuilding an old Tele Thinline body i picked up, and chose to use a 24.75" scale length neck from Warmoth.

Now having put laid everything out, the heel isn't as far up the neck as i expected, to allow the correct scale length.

Currently, the scale length stands at 25-1/8".

The bridge saddles can't move the required 3/8" to negate this effect.

I assume that were i to piece it together now, intonation would be, well, shocking.

Have i overlooked something obvious/important, or is my only option to take 3/8" off the neck pocket, thus moving the neck further into the body?

Do the bridge saddles have to move 3/8"?

I make it 3/16"

If your new scale is 3/8 shorter, that means your 12th fret to bridge distance has been shortened by a proportional 3/16", that's not so much.

If you have intonated using a meter, the intonation is probably flat above the 12th anyway and needs to be tempered, which would bring the saddles forward slightly. You might find you can just get away with it. If it doesn't have through-body stringing, there may be enough room in the pickup cav. to shift the bridge a couple of mm forward as well.

I wish you Stateside guys would go metric it's much easier! B)

:D

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Helloo.. I'm ordering a neck and body from Warmoth and I'd like a 24 and 3/4" scale length.. Thing is that I'm worried about intonation problems.. Is there anything I've got to look out for or anything I've got to specify to the dudes at Warmoth regarding the body?? This is a first time project, so assume I know absolutely nothing about guitars... Which is kinda true, anyway.. B) Thanks for the help!!

What type of guitar is it? Strat, Tele, other?

:D

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This is kind of along the right lines, so here goes:

I'm rebuilding an old Tele Thinline body i picked up, and chose to use a 24.75" scale length neck from Warmoth.

Now having put laid everything out, the heel isn't as far up the neck as i expected, to allow the correct scale length.

Currently, the scale length stands at 25-1/8".

The bridge saddles can't move the required 3/8" to negate this effect.

I assume that were i to piece it together now, intonation would be, well, shocking.

Have i overlooked something obvious/important, or is my only option to take 3/8" off the neck pocket, thus moving the neck further into the body?

Do the bridge saddles have to move 3/8"?

I make it 3/16"

If your new scale is 3/8 shorter, that means your 12th fret to bridge distance has been shortened by a proportional 3/16", that's not so much.

If you have intonated using a meter, the intonation is probably flat above the 12th anyway and needs to be tempered, which would bring the saddles forward slightly. You might find you can just get away with it. If it doesn't have through-body stringing, there may be enough room in the pickup cav. to shift the bridge a couple of mm forward as well.

I wish you Stateside guys would go metric it's much easier! B)

:D

Very true. I think what i was trying to get at was 3/16" was the minimum needed to get it into shape, but that would leave the saddles at the very end of their screws, which presumably could make tuning and intonating everything problematic later on.....

As i haven't attatched the neck yet, i have some freedom to play with (though as i said, moving the bridge isn't really an option).

Structurally, if i take the 3/8" off the neck pocket, thus removing anything between the neck pocket and the neck humbucker cavity, is everything to to be happy? (apart from ending up with the end of the fingerboard nudging the pick-up?)

And being from the UK, making everything metric would be so much easier..... :D [though i think i'd be unhappy about going into a pub and asking for 568 ml of bitter.....]

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Whoops sorry, I just tend to assume in these forums.... :D

You don't need to remove the 3/8" just 3/16"; say 5mm. You only need to remove the amount needed to bring the 12th fret towards the bridge, that should bring the saddles within range; there's no reason why the saddles should be right at the end of their screws if you do this.

All you are doing is contracting the scale from the fixed point of the bridge. If the scale is 3/8" shorter then the nut moves by that much, the 12th fret by half that (3/16), the 19th fret by 1/8 and so on...

There should be no need to adjust the saddles at all, if they were correctly positioned before.

If you want to improve their range, try nudging the bridge plate a couple of mm forward, or fit extended screws

Try this: measure the distance from the club end of the neck to the 12th fret, then subtract this from the 12.375" that represents the distance from the saddles at their furthest reach forward. Measure the resulting distance forward from the sounding point of the saddles wound to the end of their range and mark the position of the end of the neck on the body.

As the saddles only have to come back to compensate intonation this should give you an idea of the optimum position of the neck pocket. No guesswork.

B)

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I'm at University of Nottingham, studying Economics, inbetween doing lots of music stuff - with bands, but mainly promoting independant gigs. And working part time in one of the finest music venues in the country B)

Shame you're not in Bristol you could've popped in to see me at Sound Control, I could've shown you a few tips.

Still, feel free if you're ever down this way. Just be sure to mention the forum or you might get the bum's rush i reserve for timewasters!

Eltham

:D

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'm at University of Nottingham, studying Economics, inbetween doing lots of music stuff - with bands, but mainly promoting independant gigs. And working part time in one of the finest music venues in the country :D

See all those building sites in the middle of Nottingham..... They're mine they are (The old sorting office, the old telephone exchange & the two new BIG student accomodation blocks. :D

Shame you're not in Bristol you could've popped in to see me at Sound Control, I could've shown you a few tips.

My old house mates lives there now, he's a bit handy on a guitar. My bro used to live there too.....& a few of my drinking buddies used to go to uni there. Never know, next time I'm down I might pop in.

What's that over there............I think it could be the topic. I think I'll head back towards it B)

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