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Deft Laquer


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I got some deft laquer clear from Wal-Mart in the quart sized can... few questions

It claims that it doesn't require wood filler, is this true.

It claims that you don't have to sand between coats, is this true

I got it in the brush on type, is that bad

they had one can of aerosol deft that didn't say it was fast drying like the rest of the cans and quarts, is there a difference in outcome between fast drying and regular

I apply it in this order (right?)

grain filler

sanding sealer

laquer (a few coats)

dye (alchohal soluble)

laquer (many more coats)

note that its not to late to trade this stuff for aerosol.

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The Deft is nitro and if you are brushing it, expect to be sanding your bunn's off for days.

You'd be better off with spray.

There is no such thing as fast drying nitro, stuff takes quite a while to cure.

For a good finish, you always have to sand no matter what it is.

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There is no such thing as fast drying nitro, stuff takes quite a while to cure.

It says to recoat in 2 hours and its dry to the touch in 30 min but how long should I let it cure for before buffing

My dyes just came, I put them over a few clear coats right?

And it says that it doesn't need grainfiller, is that right?

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Like he said it's nitro so give it a nice 3-4 weeks, there another thread and I think Drak or Litchfield pointed that as long as you can smell fumes it's not completely cured... I havce waited 3 weeks already on mine and it's still smeling, so I will give it 1 more week...

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Nitro does "dry" very fast - unless you're piling it on, it will be dry to the touch (when spraying) soon after it has been applied. It takes much longer to cure (to get the solvent out) and that's what takes weeks to do.

Most of the cans of nitro that I've seen recommend waiting 4 hrs between coats but from asking around here, most people seem to wait about 1 or 2 hrs between coats and still get good results. The lacquer isn't wet during that period though (unless you've put too much on :D ).

Anyway, I think the confusion here is between the terms "dry" and "cured". Big difference between them when it comes to lacquer.

I think Drak or Litchfield pointed that as long as you can smell fumes it's not completely cured

Yeah, I that may have been the thread that Drak was helping me with. I put about 30 coats of lacquer on a guitar and didn't know how to tell when it was ready for buffing. The problem is that 30 coats by one person may be equal to 20 coats of another depending on the solvent ratio, how thick it was applied, .... so, he recommended that you check for the smell of the solvents. I think that takes all of the guess work out of it and is very good advice.

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Nitro does "dry" very fast - unless you're piling it on, it will be dry to the touch (when spraying) soon after it has been applied. It takes much longer to cure (to get the solvent out) and that's what takes weeks to do.

Most of the cans of nitro that I've seen recommend waiting 4 hrs between coats but from asking around here, most people seem to wait about 1 or 2 hrs between coats and still get good results. The lacquer isn't wet during that period though (unless you've put too much on :D ).

Anyway, I think the confusion here is between the terms "dry" and "cured". Big difference between them when it comes to lacquer.

I think Drak or Litchfield pointed that as long as you can smell fumes it's not completely cured

Yeah, I that may have been the thread that Drak was helping me with. I put about 30 coats of lacquer on a guitar and didn't know how to tell when it was ready for buffing. The problem is that 30 coats by one person may be equal to 20 coats of another depending on the solvent ratio, how thick it was applied, .... so, he recommended that you check for the smell of the solvents. I think that takes all of the guess work out of it and is very good advice.

yes it will be dry to the touch in 4 hrs, and you might able to wet sand the next day, but if you are planning on putting the guitar together or dry sand or buff it you need to wait until all the "fumes" (which are the thinning solution) get out.. if not when you push hard on the finish you will smudge it... the skin is hard but the inside still soft until about 3-4 weeks, you can check it by pushing in an unconspicuos space with your nail, if the fiish gets marked, it's not ready for finishing, I will wait atleast a week after the final clear coat to color sand and polish... Unless you are in a hurry and wont mind messing up the finish, thisonly apply to spay can and nitro liquids.

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I don't know about that but I think it defeats the purpose of the oil... I will say try in a piece of scrap to see how it looks, but I think that as long s the wood is prep right the coats of nitro will bring the same tone on the wood as will the tung oil. If you want to give it a different tone, just stain it and then apply the clear.

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