Quarter
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Everything posted by Quarter
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I have one of those Bosch bits and it works just fine.
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Supershort Scale Guitars?
Quarter replied to the telecaster kid's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Fender made Musicmaster's, Duo-Sonics, and Mustangs in 22.5" scale. 22.5" is a popular lap steel scale too. -
This guy has lots of different router bearings http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateb...4QQftidZ2QQtZkm
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I did one of those recessed bar retainers out of a piece of 3/8 x 1/2 aluminum bar stock for a lap steel I'm working on , works great.
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I can't answer specific about your proposed setup, but you may be able to add more air storage volume to your compressor to compensate. I've plumbed in portable air storage tanks to up my stored CFM. Another handy container is a 40 - 50 gal water heater. Both are rated for high pressure and can make a significant improvement where high CFM is needed for shorter durations.
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+1 ... bought some bearings for my Craftsman from them, amazing selection.
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What are the dimensions of the body and your rough wood? I'm sure someone here can help figure out the best way to lay it out.
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Nice score!! ... and if you can make a low spot in hardened steel with 0000 wool, your a better man than I
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I've had good luck with just poking a pin hole through the foil for easy dispensing and then storing the bottle upside down when not in use. Any skin that may form is then on the bottom of the bottle.
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I think a black base with a deep blood red and gold would look cool.
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I've had luck with the wet sanding with Tru-Oil on mahogany. I applied a good wet first coat, let dry a day, then used 320 to wet sand, wiped excess off cross grain, wait a day, couple more coats, then lightly blocked with 600, then more coats.
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Heard some good things about the Hipshot machines. Like the Schaller M6's pretty well.
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Thanks jmrentis and ooten2 I've been doing some lap steels and have been thinking of ways to do some colorful and fun fret marker inlays on an upcoming project. From Drak's original post, it seems to be just a dyed epoxy. On closer look of the fill, I don't think there is any sparkle in it. The mottled / marbleized look appears to come from varying transparencies of the different heights of the remaining wood in the underlying low areas, a very cool effect.
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That blue sparkle fill looks cool. Is that an off the shelf thing or where do you get sparkle to mix in?
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Thanks, I was very happy with how it turned out. I did the grain fill kinda like how you would do in a french polish. I applied a good wet coat of Tru-Oil, let sit for a day, then took some 240 and wet sanded with Tru-Oil, wiped it dry across the grain, let sit for a day, then went on with the normal coat applications. Here is a full pic of the maple / mahogany one And here is a mahogany / maple version I also did
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As a fan of Tru-Oil, I'd say spend $6 and get a bottle to test with. It is easy to work with, drys quick and gives maple a nice butterscotch tone. If you don't like it, you can easily sand it down and do something else. Here is a maple / African mahogany lap steel I finished with Tru-Oil.
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Looking forward to seeing how it works out for you
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What Do You Guys Usually Pay For Mahogany?
Quarter replied to killemall8's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
That is 25 board ft, you paid $3.84 a board ft, a very good price. I've been paying around $5.50 a brd ft for African. -
Birchwood Casey has a Aluminum Black® Metal Finish product. http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/bluein...=1&subcat=5
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If you like Tung Oil, I'll bet you will like Tru-Oil too. Tru-Oils main advantage I think is it drys quicker.
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Eastern and rock / hard rock / are the same, just different names / terms. Sometimes also called sugar or just hard.
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A question about shellac ... I have some flake that I picked up, but don't know if its dewaxed. It has some bits of bug etc, so will filter it. Will filtering it remove wax too? Or how would I dewax it? What is the best way to filter? Thanks
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Thanks ... they are called ferrules. Those came with the bridge, but most sellers don't usually include them. To do string throughs you really need a drill press. A trick I picked up, I believe it was from here, is to carefully drill the two outer holes first, then flip the guitar and remark and drill the remaining middle holes from the back. I put it together in a neck through fashion. The center wedge gets done first, then I glue up the 3 side strips to make a "wing". For the chambering I set up a fence on my drill press and hogged the bulk of the wood with a forstner bit and finished up with a router with an edge guide. These pics should explain it better. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...nd/chamber3.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...nd/chamber4.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...d/chamber1s.jpg
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Lap steels are fun to build and play For the first one I built, I started here http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/lapsteel/, and expanded on that. At the time I had just some basic tools, a cheap benchtop drill press, hand plane, jig saw, sander, chisels, etc. Its more work with hand tools, but it is definitely possible. For my latest steel, I have since geared up a bit more with a band saw, table saw, thickness planner, and jointer. Some more pics of the latest http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...dchambered6.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...chambered10.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...chambered12.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...end/topdown.jpg Good luck with your project
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I picked up one of those Harbor Freight benchtops a while back on sale for around $35. Not a perfect tool, but way better than a drill stand and certainly worth the $35.