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killemall8

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Everything posted by killemall8

  1. killemall8
    Thanks man. I am extremely happy with how it looks. I am trying ot get a buyer for it while offering it with whatever pickups they want. No luck yet. Here is another build i am working on. Macassar ebony veneer on an EXP shape. Macassar ebony fretboard to match.
  2. killemall8
    You sure it is 1 7/8" thick? i have never seen a jackson that thick. They are usually 1 3/4" thick. You should be fine with 1 5/8" thick body.
  3. killemall8
    Thank you sir. Here are a few better pics that actually show the real color and figure. Notice the slightly darker redburst around the edges.
  4. killemall8
    Red is so dang hard to photograph! This is the most amazing figured/ colored guitar i have ever built. It is what i picture when i think of awesome colored flame maple, and i cant capture it in pictures. Here are a few. But it is a lot different in person. The darker red burst around the edges really explodes in natural light. Looks like a ruby.
  5. killemall8
    Yes, this was the first guitar i tried it out on. I had higher expectations for it being sprayable, but it didnt work at all even after being heated up. It sprayed horribly and turned white instantly. so i just brushed it on in a thick coat instead.
  6. killemall8
    Thanks man. Red is the hardest to photograph. I dont get why. This kind of washes the figure out, but htis is what the color looks like.
  7. killemall8
    I also think i may have found a solution to my finish problem woes. I found a polyester finish that is designed for surf boards. It cures by UV/ sunlight. It literally dries rock hard in 3 minutes once exposed to sunlight. I just used it as a sealer on a strat and it worked great. Gave me a great clear, hard flat surface to spray color and clear on. I think it solved my finish problems of it sinking into the grain. Since it cures by UV light, in that 3 minutes it is as hard as it will ever be. The color came out amazing... I dont have pics of it yet though. but this flame maple and color is something close to a PRS private stock look.
  8. killemall8
    Thanks everybody. I have one other strat i didnt post yet that is going to be much better looking than the ones i posted. It is actually just maple veneer. It comes in 1/42" thickness. I just glue it between my neck laminates.
  9. killemall8
    As long as i have been around guitar building i have never heard that term. Sounds made up to me.
  10. killemall8
    Third we have a Quilted makore King V. This one is for another repeat customer, his 3rd of mine as well. This one has bookmatched quilted makore veneer on both the front and the back. Waiting on a proper sized drill bit to drill the posts for the tone pros bridge, since they use a ridiculous size.
  11. killemall8
    Next up was a flame maple strat. This flame maple veneer i got is INSANE. It has an easy 5a figure and is quartersawn. I could have made the color more vibrant, but my friend saw it and liked it the way it is and is going to buy it like this. Same exact specs as above, except with a zebrawood fretboard.
  12. killemall8
    Yes yes, i am still alive. Slightly! Being OCD with a strong will is difficult. As much trouble i have had with guitars, my will and desire to not be defeated still keeps me building these things. I am sure it will kill me at some point. I have built a few so far this year. I cant believe i started off the year only building strats. But hey, its what the people want. Here is a Quilted Makore strat i made for a returning customer. This is his 3rd guitar. He was going to put the hardware on himself again. 25.5" scale, 7 piece Mahogany, walnut, paduak and maple neck. 24 fret pau ferro fretboard Bookmatched quilted makore veneer on top Awesome looking flamed mahogany body. I also started to carve the heel and back horn more dramatically. It feels great and looks cool too.
  13. killemall8
    You can, but it is a lot harder to get them to seat evenly.
  14. killemall8
    Any pics of the madrone?
  15. killemall8
    This should be awesome! Cant wait to see more progress.
  16. killemall8
    I would personally put the switch closer to the bridge in line with your playing hand, unless you use the knobs a lot. I find that most players use the switch WAY more than they use the knobs.
  17. killemall8
    I figured it would be more trouble than it is worth. Was just a thought though. Thanks for the input.
  18. killemall8
    I was more thinking of copyrighting so i would be able to sell the design.
  19. killemall8
    I am interested in copyrighting my EXP shape (obviously with a different name) Is it possible to do for a 1 person shop? how extensive is the process?
  20. killemall8
    If that was the only flaw on my painted guitars, i would be the happiest i have ever been. better on your first try than me 10 years into it.
  21. killemall8
    Thank you sir. I had sold 5 of them in 2 days last time, now i havnt sold any of them at all. I sent one to the UK 2 weeks ago, but it cost 60$ to ship.
  22. killemall8
    Are you measuring to the middle of the 12th fret position, or the acual middle of the 12th fret slot?
  23. killemall8
    I keep screwing up on builds, so i am going to just try to sell these neck blanks. I have a bunch of them. Let me know if you are interested.
  24. killemall8
    Tung oil and danish oil have different purposes. Danish oil doesnt really build up, it soaks in and hardens inside the wood. Tung oil and tru oil build up on the surface. Lemon oil is a cleaner, not a hydrator. You should use danish or boiled linseed oil on the fretboard.
  25. killemall8
    I just use danish oil. Its a pretty simple process. Also, the loudness of your guitar is probably because it doestn have the pickups in it yet, along with the small chamber.
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