killemall8
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Everything posted by killemall8
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Thanks Mike. I got the neck pocket and bridge hum routed, and the bridge holes drilled. Ran out of light to do the rest of the routing. I will finish it up tomorrow and glue the neck in. I have enough mahogany for 2 more EXP guitars. I just really cant decide on top wood. Or find anything decent for that matter.
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Oh, And that is a fly on the fretboard, not a knot.
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Neck carved. The hard parts are over for this build!
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Got most of the neck done for the SS.
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Are you direct mounting the pickups? If not, the neck pickup ring is going to hang off.
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That is pretty intense. It reminds me of Mike and Ikes for some reason.
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Read the other posts... We already went over that.
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Come on man, ibanez headstock on a rhoads??
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I personally think its only worth it if the extra effort results in extra quality. Another interesting thing with this finish. I Wet sanded it all. Hit it with the 10" random orbital buffer. Still had a little orange peel after i buffed it. It sat for about 2 hours. Then i put in on my couch like i always do. Woke up this morning, and wouldnt you know it. the couch left marks in the finish like it was still tacky when i put it down. Makes no sense at all to me.
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Are you talking about the fretboard/ neck taper? or the profile thickness? for the fretboard/neck taper, i just draw out the taper on the neck, bandsaw, and then double stick tape a long joined piece of MDF along the line. Then use a router with a bearing bit along it, just like you would a body. Perfectly straight, smooth taper.
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Started wet sanding the spalty earlier. NEVER! NEVER again will I attempt to do a full gloss finish on this type of guitar again. It has so dang many angles and edges. It takes forever to sand. Every. Single. Bevel.
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Thanks Carl. The more i work on these the more I am pleased with the design and flow of it. I still cant believe i came up with it. The design is really taking off with peoples interest. On my facebook page, it gets a lot of love, and i get quite a few messages about them. And also, whenever i post progress pictures, i pretty much get committed buyers half way through a build. The last 3 i have made i had "sold" before they were done. Its funny, because i was pretty sad once KL and i agreed that i wouldnt use his headstock anymore. And then i end up designing something that i like better and that has just as good of a market. I think i have the paint issues sorted out too. I think another factor that the lacquer primer was still gassing off after i sprayed basecoat. So it was cracking to release it.
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And here is another Supa Strat i am doing for a previous customer. The maple/ walnut neck will belong to this.
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Thank you sir. Here are some pics of recent projects and progress.
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Well, in any light, i cant see any blue on the black at all. But then again, you spray a TON of coats compared to me. 12 coats is pretty intense. I only sprayed 5, and i thought that was a heck of a lot.
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Since i have so many projects going on, I figured i would join the club and make one cumulative topic. Here is a big stack of oncoming projects. Along with a few more that arnt pictured.
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Scott and Pros, I have always thought i was in the absolute ideal climate for spraying guitars. But i really have no idea why finishes continue to shrink forever. I left one painted guitar out to dry for about a month, with 2k clear on it. I leveled it, buffed it, and it sat for another month. It was absolutely perfect when i first buffed it. Even after that next month, it started to look not so mirror perfect anymore. I dont know, i really dont get it. guitar2005, The blueness went away on mine within a few minutes. On the black part of the burst, when it first was sprayed, looked completely opaque blue. But after it dried, it looks jet black. I have had some waterbased polys stay really blue. And if you add a tint to them, they look florescent.
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Even with conversion varnishes and 2 part auto clears i still get shrink back. Scott, This is all alder and maple, so no pores to fill. Even still, i have had finishes turn orange peely(ish) after it was sanded perfectly smooth and buffed. I am starting to think that NM just isnt the right climate for smooth gloss finishes. with 100* temperatures and 0 humidity, it just never seems to stop drying or shrinking.
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I have found that every water based finish has a bluish tint. With the 7000, it goes away when it dries though. 18psi? Thats it? That is pretty low. It seems like it wouldnt even spray at that low of PSI.
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so, It has been 18 days since i sprayed this guitar. And yet, still isnt hard. Just another reason i hate lacquer. I had high hopes for it, but nope, just the same as all lacquers. It has been non stop in the 90s here, and it has been hanging in the garage with airflow. And i am willing to be that as soon as i wet sand and buff it, it will shrink back.
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Pretty cool video! Haha, so you are one of those guys who uses the bandsaw with the guard all the way up, all the time, huh?
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Turn Epiphone Into Gibson?
killemall8 replied to ZakkWyldeWannabe's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Technically it is possible... But it is a terrible idea, and will cost more and take longer than the whole guitar is worth. What is wrong with the neck that is on it? Chances are, the only difference is the inlays and the headstock logo. Why go through all that to make a copy? -
DevilBiss Is a VERY good brand of spray gun. They are extremely expensive. Should do great for spraying guitars.
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Replacing A Stripped Truss Rod Nut
killemall8 replied to MerlinTKD's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
If its not completely stripped round, try the next bigger size up in allen wrench. Sometimes you can still get it to catch. -
John, I have to wonder, Why do you always search for so many alternative woods and methods, when the proven ones are easily accessible? Why go through all this, only to maybe find out it's not going to hold up? Maple is really cheap. Or even go for soft maple if you have to. Its still stronger than mahogany.
