black_labb

i make mine using a 10x10mm aluminium u section, the inner dimensionsa are 7mmx8.5 (1.5mm walls). i put a 1/4" (6.35mm) rod through it and thread one end using a coupling nut (just a 20mm long nut of the correct thread), which is the adjustment end. on the other end i put a 10mmx10mm piece of steel on the end, and attach that to the rod so that the rod does not spin when tightened (and so it has something to pull on) i attach this square piece to the rod by drilling a hole into the steel end, and through the rod where it will be, and then put a piece of a nail or bolt into the hole (should be snug in there) and glue it in. this stops the rod from spinning, assuming that you have made your channel accurately at 10mm, otherwise you can shim around the square endpiece. i have been making my guitars with a body end adjustment, as it allows me to use the easily obtainable/cheap coupling nuts and also leaves more wood around the headstock, which can be prone to breaking when truss rods go through there. here is a pic adjustment end locked end this one i took a pic of was from when i was using grub screws, but decided that that was silly, and just a waste of time tapping the piece, as it doesnt need to be adjusted. i had recessed the point where the grub screw hit the rod after taking the pic, which made the grub screw flush and ensured it didnt spin. guitar with it in the guitar has a s curved end to the fretboard, so it had to stick out further on this design. on the designs i am making the nut only protrudes 4-5mm from the fretboard, which can be covered by the edge of a humbucker ring, and be acessed by removing the neck pickup using the ring end of an 11mm spanner. if you were to use a smaller rod then you would also have a smaller size nut, but i like using the 1/4" rod, as it creates a very stiff truss rod, acting similarly to carbon fibre rods in a way, but in the same space as the truss rod. edit: just clarifying that the rod went into the aluminium u section from the pics, was sitting out to show how it went in. that should be easy to understand, but my description is probably pretty horrible as im very tired (somehow still feel the need to procrastinate about going to bed).

for the bass neck, why not do a 1piece design with the wenge, and use a maple skunk stripe? thats a design ive always wanted to do, but i havent yet. just a suggestion though.

one advantage is being able to have it any length you desire. i make mine because its one less thing to think about when ordering parts.

i believe tony iomi recorded with p90's on early black sabbath albums. not 100% though

im not going to read all of it, but the harmonic node thing is useless.placing it under a node on the open string (lets say neck pup at the 24th fret) it picks up the 2nd harmonic stronger than anywhere else, but it does not pick up any of the 4th harmonic, as well as the 8th 16th ect. if you move it just a bit, then you will pick up both harmonics. the way to look at it is to put it closer to the bridge will give it a brighter sound (less fundamental) and closer to the neck will be warmer.

thanks guys, i seem to have found a page with a few tips. using the term pigment made the results from the search more sueful. heres a link for anyone interested. http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/a...ques/epoxy.html apparently coloured chalk and fabric dyes can work well (their the ones that caught my eye, ther are others). i will give them a try. has me thinking about making some swirl patterns by making 2 seperate mixes of different colours, then swirling them together a bit. ill probably just stick to using the epoxy normally, but may make a few test pieces.

not "Chandlers" A chandlers is any marine/boat supplies place just like you know what to expect from a butcher here endeth the lesson i'm sure there are other ways of dying it i just thought that it might be an idea possible not explored anywhere on here. i feel silly, oh well, you learn something everyday. thanks for the response

is chandlers a marine/boat supplies place of some sort?

hi guys, im looking to do an inlay on a fretboard using died epoxy to get a red inlay into a rosewood fretboard. what would you guys suggest i use to dye the epoxy, and where would you usually get it? i assume its some tye of powder from what ive read, but i couldnt find any more info other than that when i tried searching. thanks

id personally put a maple skunk stripe and do it 1 piece style. would make some nice contrast. my quartersawn maple-wenge-quartersawn maple neck with a stripped ebony fretboard hasn't needed any adjustments, and its thin. (thats with a larger steel rod than usual though in a u channel). but id hate to not have it and something go wrong.

great looking build. the black/white contrast is great. i like the horn, but seems a bit out of proportion to the body. makes teh neck look a bit too small for a 5 string.

im also impressed with that. not only is it a great looking guitar, but there seems to be alot of originality as well (and the original parts are well done too). i like the tennon going in so far, good idea. should be a very strong neck join. im going to be a doing a similar thing with a small hollowbody, where the neck tennon acts as the solid piece within the body.

actually its your second post try to post a topic once only. im not sure what you mean by bar frets. do you ahve a pic to explain with?

as for the first question, the wires comign from a single coil both do the same thng, as well as a 2 wire humbucker. the wires are just connected to different ends of a pickup's winding. some people believe that using the outside of the pickup as the grounded side (or negative) then you reduce the hum as the outer coils will act as a shield to the inner's, but otherwise there is going to be not difference. wether the other theory is true i dont know, but its possible.

ive seen a 1 piece bass neck made by fender in the 70's or 80's, so its not too bad as a fretboard.

thats what i was refering to. looking forward to seeing the finished work.

another name for naptha is shellite, which is the name that is used for it in australia. wouldnt be surprised if that's the name you should look for in the uk

if you want to just use the speaker then it would noit be a big deal. id just cut the wires going from the current output transformer to the speaker and put a jack and socket (the long tubular sockets, not the skeleton sockets used in guitars) and then unplug that from the amp and plug the other amp in. you would have to determine the right impedance on the speaker, but you can get the right value from measuring the dc resistance. if its close to 8 but not much higher, it is 8 (same things with the other values which are commonly 4 and 16). if you do this make sure to put the socket connecting to the speaker, as opposed to the other way around.

that would work, but id probably suggest doing it yourself, all you need is some contact cleaner/. just spray it into the gaps of the pot and let it run out, then twist it for 10 or so turns right the way around. not a big deal once your into the amp.

looks great, the pickguard really works well with the design. what kind of wiring are you putting on that? is that an uncovered pot or a little switch? if its a switch is it a series paralell switch for the bridge? seems like a good idea. no pots?

the thing about bluesy tone, is it tends to be fairly bright guitars fed into a mellow or darker amps usually. that tends to be the traditional sound at least. either way, he should give it a go and see what comes out

i tried searching but didnt find the answer, but what do yiou sue to ptint the epoxy? i assume its ome type of powder. where do you usually get it? thats a great looking build. i like the use of the rosewood for the neck. thanks

interesting modding going on here, good job. the auminium would wear down as the surface corrodes and creates a protective layer, but this protective layer rubbs off easily, which is what is happening. good to hear that you got another one working well. nice looking mods.

thats a great looking build. did you find it difficult making the guitar being in a wheelchair? i can imagine some steps being a bit complicated as your not able to get over the guitar in the way many people can. great looking instrument, and glad to hear you like the sound.

i can understand some of the somments about my build. the only thing that i regret is cutting off the end of the fretboard. i thought it would keep up with the angled theme, but it doesnt suit it that well. if it were wider i could have done a nicer curve to it, but at that angle it just looks like it was cut off. i guess i keep that in mind for the next times. reguarding the plain wood, i personally prefer something like walnut or oak to flamed maple. just my opinion, and i know that i feel differently than about 95% of guitarists. i do like flamed necks though. thats just my opinion. i chose walnut as i thought the colour would look great on the build. the fretboard is a bit rough with the edges, but where it is rough it doesnt show on the photos really. some of the edges look bad due to the resizing of the photo and/or the angle the photo was taken on. im not saying its better than it looks, just that the roughness you see isnt really there. i will smooth the pickguard at some stage when i take it apart. overall im very happy with my build. it is an excellent player and sounds great. and congrats to oz tradie on winning (seems to be that way), and a great build.