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DC Ross

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Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. I use a Line 6 Pod X3 Pro, and really like it for the versatility, but the AES/EBU output seems tweaky. It's my main bass rig and my 'sometimes' guitar rig. If I had the cash, I'd definitely go for a Fractal Audio Axe FX.
  2. If you don't want to go the heatgun route, a healthy (cough) dose of denatured alcohol may do the trick.
  3. Fretfind 2D is still there, they just changed the interface and location (for some reason...) http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/
  4. +1 In case you were curious as to how they do it, go here.
  5. Thanks guys, I've been working on documenting all of my jigs in my "spare time" Like Chris says, it's aluminum and can be cut with woodworking tools, but it'll dull them. I used a non-ferrous metal cutting blade in my chop saw to cut it and an old, junky file to smooth the edges. As for where to find the track, I bought two server racks at a going out of business sale. Rockler has something similar, but they're definitely not cheap.
  6. Ah, I see what you meant now. Like Drak says, it's kind of up to you. I'm in the finishing stages of a guitar with an oiled neck that won't be glued in until the body is clearcoated.
  7. You'll need to remove any finish from the neck where it mates with the body (and vice-versa).
  8. A couple of things: 1. If you can actually route the neck angle accurately to 1/100 of a degree, I applaud you. 2. Go here to figure out the angle using measurements from the bridge you'll be using.
  9. Here are a bunch of dimensions: http://www.jemsite.com/jem/necks.htm
  10. I'd say anything more than 1/2 the thickness would be too much
  11. Would love to see some pics if you will No prob, I'll try to take some this weekend.
  12. Simple answer: Supply and demand Why else can Gibson ask 2x again as much? Because people will pay it. Another simple answer: Man-hours. It takes way more than 12 to complete a PRS. Heck, it takes an experienced guy 45 minutes just to level sand after base coat. At any rate, I'm not trying to convert anyone, we all have our preferences, and noone is going to change anyone else's mind.
  13. CNC isn't the issue here. It's the incredible amount of work that comes after. As we all know, routing and rough shaping only accounts for a small percentage of the time and effort, which is what the CNC process does. Bodies don't come out of the machines ready for spraying any more than they do after you take your angle grinder to the top to carve it. And postal, PRS isn't trying to "pawn off CNC cranked out guitars as handmades." Just the opposite, they're very open, honest and actually proud of the fact that they use the technology to make better guitars.
  14. The title pretty much sums it up. I'm looking for a good 12 string TOM or wraparound with individually intonatable saddles. Any ideas? Thanks!
  15. Thanks for the heads-up about the site. It's going through a redesign soon anyway. Here's a pic of my aluminum dragon, sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.
  16. You could build one of these(scroll down the page a bit) : http://www.luthierscooltools.com/Dwgs.htm Anyone know how this jig works? The picture doesn't really show anything. I'm trying to decide between the various different designs and I'd like to know what this jig's approach is. The platform that the fretboard is attached to swings side to side. It's basically an upside-down version of the other jigs that have been posted. I made a similar one, but it rides through my thickness sander.
  17. I use brass and aluminum as inlays, gluing with epoxy, and haven't had any issues. You just have to make sure that the fret slots are wider than the fret tangs, cuz it's not going to compress
  18. If you're inlaying it, I'd set it a few mils beneath the surface and top it with Magic-Glos. It's a crystal-clear UV-curable epoxy.
  19. Not to turn this into a tonewood discussion, but IMO, I think wood has less of a tonal effect on Strats (especially trem-equipped) than any other guitar. The pickups are mounted to a flimsy piece of plastic, the strings transfer vibration to a bunch of springs, and they were designed to be cheap, quick and easy to produce. It all adds up to some great guitars, mind you. You'll end up with some awesome Stratty tones if you go with a 25.5" scale and good single coils.
  20. I use a 3/4" Trimaster on my Grizzly 14", and it's been great -- going on about two years now. I of course take care of it, release the tension when not in use and keep it clean.
  21. "Secret information?" Seriously? When anyone can just go to GC and measure it for themselves? Neat.
  22. IMO, PRSs are the only high-production guitars worth their cost. They have exceptional quality control at many points along the production line. The consistency between guitars is amazing, and the amount of (USA) handwork is incredible. Here's a fun test: pick up three of the same model Gibson (I did this with 1960 Les Paul reissues), and see and feel how different they are from each other straight out of the box. Do the same with PRS Custom 22s. Keep in mind that these are all around the same price point. The PRS is, quantifiably, a far superior instrument.
  23. A customer brought a box of Guitarfetish stuff ("floyd-compatible" body, floyd, neck, etc...) for me to assemble. In addition to a bunch of other problems, the bridge pickup route went too far south, so I had to add a shim to the bridge side of the route to be able to place the studs correctly. So much for a 'cheap' partscaster. He'd have been much better off getting a Carvin kit.
  24. Nice! Not quite as good as "Rhythm In Jump, Dancing Close To You," but still pretty good
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