VanKirk

I wanted to use inserts and bolts on my tele-ish project so I could have a more contoured heel on my bolt-on neck. I should be OK as long as I don't drill into the truss rod or top of the fretboard. Will I need ferrules or can I just use the bolts alone? Maybe just a washer instead of a ferrule? I'm a little worried to tear up the wood without some kind of washer or ferrule. Anyone have any advice?

Ah I see...that is perfect for me The lower part would be a tone ajustment and the top the volume ajustment (except if anyone suggests why that shouldnt be done) Exactly my plan on my guitar. I'll also have a 5-way super switch (or maybe PRS style rotary, haven't decided) for full use of pick-up options. You can have separate volume and tone controls for each pick-up with only 2 holes in the top of your guitar + the switch. I don't like having alot of knobs and switches cluttering up a nice figured top but I still want to control volume and tone separately on both humbuckers. I like the look of these knobs at Stew-Mac. I was thinking of ordering them with black on bottom knob and gold on top to give my project a gold framed in black theme.

I use the Dava's as well and I agree, they're the best pick out there. Easy to hold and any gauge you need depending where you hold them. I got 2 metal-tipped Davas for x-mas and I use them ocassionally on my electric but not all the time. No problems with string wear. I don't use them on my acoustic though, too bright for that and I like to use my fingers anyways. They do have lotsa bite, really bright sounding. I only use a little fast alternate picking but it helps ALOT to do that.

I had the same problem when glueing my maple top to alder body. As I tightened the clamps, the two pieces kept sliding. Was very stressful to keep them straight and clamp it tight. Next time I'll drill holes and use wooden dowels to attach the top & body together where a pickup and neck route will be then I'll glue and clamp. Beautiful neck Hyunsu!

I'm surprised Satch isn't on the list but from what is there? hmmm....Eddie has been playing some innovating stuff to the masses for a long time now. Steve Vai would be up there on the top. I'm not into Yngwie but he does some crazy playing. Guess I'd have to put more thought into it but I'm not gonna I think he just wanted to correct the mispelled topic more than make a valid point.

Sweet! Thanks, Derek. Do these bolts need a ferrule or can they go directly into the neck?

WoW Myka! That neck to body join is TIGHT! I hope I can get mine that close. Mad skills, man!

I have a G&L S-500 (My baby, Leo Fender signature model) with a maple neck that I've played for 11 years. I love the dirty look where I've worn through the finish at my favorite fret positions. I also love how it sounds clean and fingerpicked. Nothing like the sound of all 3 pickups on, fingerpicking on a maple neck strat. I also have a rosewood fb strat that I've modified. I love the sound of it with a little distortion on the neck pickup. Great blues tone. Think Buddy Guy tone for maple and Stevie Ray Vaughan tone for rosewood. Maple= Bright tone, more high end. I find it is really responsive to pick attack/dynamics. Rosewood= Dark tone, more mid-range to bass. Just sounds heavier to me. Down and dirty, in-your-face when distorted. Both are VERY cool just different. My ramblings are subjective of course not to mention from a blues player's view. Go play both and decide for yourself. :D

...and 160 more posts in the last 4 days. again WoW!

I measured the gap and it's 1/32" wide X around 3 1/2" long. AARGH! Well, I've decided to do be a stained top with a black back anywho so it won't show.

Man! I shoulda had more clamps! There's a small section where I can see a 1/32" gap about 3" long I did learn a few things for my next build though: 1. As Lex & my friend stated, before glueing, drill through the top & into the body at a place where it will be routed later and insert some type of rod or screw to prevent the two pieces from slipping while glueing. This would have saved me ALOT of stress. 2. Use LOTSA clamps and cauls to evenly clamp the two pieces together and prevent any gaps. Several in the middle of the body and lots around the edges. The bearing on my bit had a collet that kept it in place. This collet had a small allen screw that attached it to the shaft of the bit. This leads to: 3. Make sure this allen screw does not stick out further than the bearing. This causes it to cut into the body. File this allen screw down if necessary. (I filed it but after it put a 1/2" long gouge in the body that I had to sand out). BTW, I'm glad I took pics along the way. They will be good reminders of what I did wrong so I won't make the same mistake twice.

I agree with BLS. Since it's a used guitar you should just play them both and decide which one feels the best, sounds the best and has the least amount of fret buzz. Watch out for worn saddles that could constantly break your strings (easily replaceable though if everything else seems OK). I worry less about the look & features and more about the playability then anything else.

I had to learn the hard way that the little 2" x 2" wood squares were not enough to distribute the force Man, I'm just waiting for the "WARNING! THIS THREAD CONTAINS BAD ADVICE" pic to show up under one of my posts Oh well. I'm hooked now and I already have plans for a second guitar. Possibly a neck through with P-90s. Well, after I modify the shape of the free P Bass I got from a friend into something similar to the Flea Modulous bass. The P bass was metallic purple in the middle and burst out to pink I've stripped the top but I need to take some pics of the back before I strip it. It's good for a laugh.

Not to get off track too much but I've noticed that even the best camcorders take crappy pics and the best cameras take lousy movie clips. Seems that one dedicated to each is necessary. Anyways, good job on seeing your project all the way through and learning alot about what to do and what not to do in the process I'm sure Lotsa fun ain't it? Can get a little stressful too but worth it in the end.

Here's the hardware that will go on it: A Hipshot Babygrand Bridge & 2 Dimarzio Virtual PAFs (Dimarzio's from Brian at universaljems.com...cheapest and best service anywhere ) The maple strip on the left was finished (3/4 of it) with just tru-oil (about 6 coats). The maple strip on the right was finished (3/4) with diluted walnut stain then tru-oil. The square of maple in the middle is unfinished and I will probably make that my control cavity cover. The small pic shows the scrap of alder behind the pick-ups finished with Formby's tung-oil. I like the stained piece the best because it adds a more 3D effect to the flame. Oil finish samples and hardware Another pic close-up

Ok, don't say I didn't warn you I'm prepared for the backlash. Anyways, here's a newbie hack glueing the flame maple top to an alder body. I wished I had more clamps...obviously I just rough cut the shape out of the maple and after the glue sets I'll use the alder body as a template for the final top shape. I thought this would prevent any slipping when routing the top. YaY! neighboor just saved the day with more clamps

Cool Yeah, I need to start taking more pics. I'd be embarassed to show the clamped top with glue oozing out all over the place and some exercise weights layed on the top MKG, just so you know, the earlier pics of the finished guitars are not mine. They are the style I am modeling after so I can't take credit for an original design. I'll go get some pics as soon as I remove the clamps...and clean off some of the excessive glue. I must admit I'm VERY happy with how well the two piece top glued up. Barely a visible line. Anyways, thanks for the encouragement and pics will be up within the next day or two. I left the top clamped for several hours and it seemed fine. I even left the top and body clamped together while waiting to glue so the top wouldn't warp. Any advice as to how long I should leave it clamped? oh, yeah I'm bald as a bowling ball. Lost it at 15 but the fiance likes it and I stay cool in the summer, hehe. BTW, MKG your HOT!!!

I just got done glueing my top to the body......and I think, if I had hair, It'd all be grey. I put down a nice smooth layer of glue on the top and on the body and smoothed it with a credit card. Then I lined it up and started clamping. Everytime I tightened one side the whole thing would slide and shift a little bit. I was stupid and took the risk by not following some advice given to me by a builder friend. He said to use dowels where my pickup and neck routes would be to hold the two pieces together while glueing. My dumbass thought "naw, I can do it". I finally got it but man that was stressful trying to keep it all lined up as I clamped and before the glue set. I hope I don't go out there in an hour to find the two pieces completely misaligned.

I just wanted to clarify...I talked again to this builder and he said it's not the string vibrations (*SLAP*). When the top of the pocket in the neck route to the back of the body/neck pocket is too thick, your hand can hit it like a brick wall if it doesn't have an all access neck joint. So...I thickness planed the body down and got the maple top planed & flip joined up this weekend. I'll glue up the top to the body probably tomorrow. It'll be just under 2" at the thickest point by the time I carve the top. BTW...I've decided to use a walnut stain and sand back a little then use tru-oil over it since the test scraps came out so nice. ...and I've totally wimped out on the dye and laquer finish I just don't trust myself but my stained and tru-oiled scraps came out really nice so I'm not too dissappointed with myself (we'll see when it's done, hehe) I finally got my bridge in so after I glue the top, I'll route the neck pocket then mount the bridge posts. Then goes the pickup routes and finally the top carve. Pics of my progress soon

10,000 f'n posts. Holy sh*t! Congrats! That takes true dedication...to the slam thread j/k 10,000! ahhh crap! I thought I was in the rant section. sorry

...maybe wet with water (ALOT of water) to show grain better for the pic?

Straight

Myka's 009 guitar process At the bottom of the page Myka shows how he used wipe-on dyes to get that beautiful finish. As for clear-coating, I know that stew-mac & reranch both have spray-can laquer but I'm not sure of the compatibilty with the wipe-on dyes Myka used. If they were compatible then you wouldn't need a spray gun. Also, Stew-mac sells the preval unit. With that you can mix your dyes in a jar and screw it onto the aerosol powered can. If I were doing alot of bodies I'd buy a nice gun & air compressor with oil/moisture traps but since I'm just doing one (for now) on a limited budget the wipe-on or Preval products seem like good alternatives. I still think if your looking for pro-quality finishes with less prep, final sanding & buffing you need the whole she-bang.

Excellent link Ace! Great arrangements & sound. Just the kind of acoustic stuff I like to listen to. Thanks!

I've never had any trouble with my Weller. Easy to find many styles of tips for it too.