avengers63

What makes it multi-scale? By definiation, it does have fanned frets, but what else does it have that we're not aware of?

On other notes: +1 to one entry per month. +1 to having a build thread before entering. This one should be more of a 'rule of thumb' than anything else meant to deter non-contributors from entering. By example, I wouldn't complain about Perry's entry despite not having a thread beforehand because he contributes regularly. +1 to a time limit after winning. +1 to limiting the number or frequency of pro entries. The pros have a significant advantage over the amateurs in equipment, time, experience, etc. I have the sneaking suspicion that pros get a certain number of 'respect votes' as well. The naming requirement seems a bit hokey. That one could be dropped or modified.

Actually, it happened in the Feb-08 GOTM. Sir, allow me to direct your attention to this month's contest. Please notice that Trynyty's entry "The Ouroboros", while a custom ax, was comissioned and purchased. He came in 4th in a field of 9. I'd say he did alright for himself. EDIT: SORRY!!! I posted this before reading the remainder of the comment it's quoted from. While Brian already stated his thoughts on simply designing the instrument, which this guy did, I disagree with him. As I see it, it was a purchased instrument. If I had enough money, I could contract a custom ax from Gary Kramer himself. I could hand over exact specs and a wad of cash, but I still wouldn't have built a dang thing. By Brian's thoughts, this would qualify as a "project guitar". Again, I respectfully disagree, and feel that these should not be allowed.

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Was that the one on an Australian woodworking forum that started out asking what his B.C.Rich Gunslinger was made of? If so, I saw that one too. For your amusement: This was the suggestion for a poplar or alder body. Use shellac to raise the grain, then sand it all off? Uh.... NO. Grainfill after staining? Shellac (sealer), then sanding sealer on top of that? This, my friends, is why y'all told me I HAD to buy Flexner's book, which I did. For that, you have by gratitude. There's way too much finishing misinformation floating around out there. Finishing isn't really that hard - it's just time consuming and easy to get monkeyed up.

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It depends a little on what type of finish you'll be applying. If you'll be painting it, it won't matter much. If you'll be staining or dying the wood, that needs to happen before the sealer. If you're just doing a natural finish... I'd rather let one of the more experienced guys handle that one. EDUCATED GUESS: And that's ALL this is. Don't take this as anything other than my gut instinct. It would seem to me that it'd be fairly easy to tell if you're through the sealer ot not. The sealer makes it look wet, just like clear finish. I'd say that if anything still looks wet, you're not through. Also, I wouldn't think putting new sealer over any leftover sealer would hurt anything. BUT - you shouldn't mix finish types when possible, so if different things were used to seal.... I don't know. Sealer can be lacquer, shellac, or possible something else. I know you can use shellac to seal then put something else over it, and lacquer is it's own sealer... Anyone else?

Understood. And the ax looks great too.

I certainly can't argue with that. I totally get it from both a business and principle perspective. In that light, you certainly have every right to be torked about it. Is there anything you can do to copyright the process or protect your intellectual property?

If you're going to do that, why not just use flamed or quilted maple? The drawback is having to finish it, but even that might be less work. AND... you'd not have the heartache of messing up that expensive waterfall bubinga.

That makes you an innovator. Take pride in that. When you see a bunch of partially scalloped necks like you've done here, you can say "I made that happen." Seriously - we're all really standing on the shoulders of giants. In a greater sense, we're all copying from someone else. Now, someone will stand on your shoulders. That's really saying something. Stand tall, Perry, stand tall.

Sorry dude, but for me, the second you start throwing pentagrams or upside-down crosses or other similar items on the ax, you might as well throw it away. I wouldn't care if C.F.Martin himself made it. And yes, I felt this way before becoming a Christian.

I'm the ecaxt same way with computer products. With the exception of Windows & Office, I refuse to use any Microsoft products. The only reason I use Office is because I got ahold of an unlicensed copy. Otherwise, I'd use OpenOffice. Windows is only because I don't want to learn Linux. XP is finally stable, so I'm not messing with it. Anything else, though, I completely refuse to use at home. I'd rather fiddle with learning something else that will work every time than mess with MS product. It's all on principle. So yes, Xanthus... I feel ya! Stick it to the man! All yer rules are bringin' me down, man!

For shape, balance, and seated playing, I'll be adding some small body horns. The trebel-side curve will be a bit more pronounced and extended so it will sit on my thigh. The bass-side will get extended a bit for strap-attached balancing. Overall, though, I'll be trying to do as little as possible to the body.

Ok, I'll bite. Why would you do that?

Yea... We don't live here.

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I leveled mine with 320 and started wetsanding with 400. It turned out fine. It'd depend on the thicknes of the finish if you'd sand through or not. I suppose I'm fortunate I laid it kinda thick.

Anyone remember this? It's almost time to rework the whole thing. The body has a number of issues: no balance, impossible to sit & play, and it's made of plywood. I have some 2" jatoba coming in this week, some of which will be used to make this body with. (I'm also getting 10"x1" sapele, 8"x2" zebrawood, 4"x2.5" mahogany, and 17"x1" mahogany, but that's another story! ) I wanted to use the jatoba because it's dense & heavy. I figured that'd help with the balance. The weight shouldn't be a problem due to the lack of size. Also, I have some veners in stock: walnut, rosewood, fiddleback ash, lyptus, cherry, ribboned sapele, maple, and one or two others I can't think of right now. Many of these are large enough to cover the face of this body. I have some banding material as well: 36" strips of maple, something medium-brown, and something dyed black. Here are my thoughts. 1) Paint it yellow, just like the current body is. 2) Cover the face & headstock with a veneer (probably rosewood) and bind the whole thing with the maple banding. My gut says that the little body & single pup doesn't lend itself well to a pretty wood surface. My craftsmanship says this is entirely possible, so go for it. But, just because a thing can be done does not mean it should be done. But it'd be pretty! But it doesn't really fit the style. But it'd be really fun to make. But then I have the diamondplate p/g for nothing. But I can sell the p/g with the old body. Can you tell I'm torn? I don't have any qualms about painting over the wood at all. Jatoba may look nice, but it wasn't bought for the grain. It'd be someting entirely different were I suggesting to paint over the zebrawood. Nothing is stopping me from making 2 bodies. The veneered one would have a square edge, the other rounded. It's my intention to make multiple bodies anyway and try to sell them on eBay. I really don't want to make the veneered one and then fall in love with it. I already know I love the basic shape in yellow. I don't want two little ones! If I love it, I'll have to have them both. I'm rambling now. I should stop typing my inner dialogue and let y'all give me some feedback.

It's about double that here, but $7-8/bf still isn't TOO bad. Be careful about the weight. Purpleheart looks cool, but it's heavy. IMO, PH is best served as accent instead of the main wood. If you're set on PH, consider a 1/4" top instead of the whole body.

Sorry - I just can't justify the expense right now. And no, I don't know anyone with an airbursh or a spray booth. FWIW: I changed my mind on the color. I'm going with a nice medium blue. I know it's kinda boring. I can always strip it later when/if I ever get an air gun.

Well, that's that! I knew there was a perfectly legitimate reason, I just didn't know what it was. Thanks!

My gut reaction was to moisten it somehow and clamp the heck out of it between a couple pieces of whatever. The mini-ax looks really killer. Very classy, very fun, very cool.

+1 to making your own body. I'd discourage carving up anything other than a pawn shop special. If you do the carve instead of the heel mod, I'd be concerned with having enough material on the trebel side of the neck pocket. If you get it too thin, you might affect the stability. If this route is taken, go to the store and clesely examine any & all bolt-ons with a very deep recess to see how thick the trebel side of the neck pocket is. When you do yours, don't go any thinner than those.

If yer gonna keep it red, I suggest one more step. Sand back just a bit and add a lighter yellow/orange dye to top it all off. That should make the quilt really pop and add about another 6" of depth to it. The reason I suggest this is that right now it's pretty dark. I feel it'd be nicer if it were a little brighter. If you like it dark, then by all means leave it be! It does look great now. For my tastes, though, it could be better.