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johnsilver

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Everything posted by johnsilver

  1. johnsilver
    Setch, that little saw in my pic does tend to wander (nothing to do with my skills ). I got one of the double sided pull saws last Christmas but haven't used it for much yet. jmrentis - glad things worked out.
  2. johnsilver
    That sounds like a good answer. I used a thin kerf pull saw for cutting down a Tele style headstock. This isn't an identical application to what you want to do but not entirely dissimilar either. Because the saw blade was fairly flexible, I had to take care but in the end got a nice even and straight cut. So, if you want to try your pull saw, it should work.
  3. johnsilver
    Sweet! My son's is an Indonesian made Squire Bullet. A future project (after I complete the three underway).
  4. johnsilver
    OK, brain spasm alleviated temporarily. I was thinking of lyptus. According to their site, this stuff is dense like maple and rivals cherry or mahogany in appearance. Apparently it machines and takes stain well. I'll bet it even grows in the shape of a guitar body. Anyone had experience working with this wood?
  5. johnsilver
    I'm having a brain spasm now and can't think of the name of a tropical hardwood hybrid developed by a major forestry products company and grown in S. America on plantations. Supposedly, it has properties similar to mahogany. Anyone know the name?
  6. johnsilver
    That's sweet. I've been threatening to make my youngest son's Squier a project. Did you have to do much neck / fret work to make it more playable?
  7. johnsilver
    Hydro - very, very nice. Congratulations.
  8. johnsilver
    Geo, I use the double stick tape from my local Ace Hardware. All of the big home centers have it also. Sometimes it is called double stick carpet tape. Its pretty strong so you have to be careful when you try to unstick your fretboard.
  9. johnsilver
    Perry, very cool. A lot of work that I hope is well compensated.
  10. johnsilver
    My StewMac finishing book has several recipes that reference masking after spraying with vinyl sealer. Their procedure says to wait "several hours" after spraying the vinyl sealer. You might want to try to spray on scrap and see for yourself. I usually have some of those Preval sprayers on hand to test this sort of thing so I don't have to load up and clean a gun.
  11. johnsilver
    I'm in a weird mood so I'll jump in again. Asylum, hopefully you can find a top bearing bit. They are very useful in guitar work. There are lots of members on this forum from Australia so maybe they can advise a local source. If you can not after an exhaustive search of brick and mortar and on-line sites, pm me. Soap - you had a Dremel at age 12? Sweet! Drak - good to see you in play. Woodenspoke - I personally appreciate your concern for the safety of a fellow member. My advice, of which you are of course free to ignore, is that you can find what you are looking for on this forum and others can as well. For you, that may involve ignoring many thousands of posts that will no doubt frustrate you. Its all about them damn geetars.....
  12. johnsilver
    Apologies if this is too basic a question. What type bit are you using with the templates - a bit with a bearing to ride along the template edge?
  13. johnsilver
    I've bought probably a dozen fretboards from LMI - ebony mostly but also rosewood and maple. I've bought them flat and radiused but all slotted - 3 different scales. All have been high quality and accurately cut. The slots were all cut to appropriate depth when they arrived. After I radius/sand/inlay, sometimes I've needed to increase slot depth. For that, I bought the fret cutting saw from StewMac for $24 (0.023" kerf). I use it to clean out slots and to increase depth if needed.
  14. johnsilver
    Don't know exactly what you are looking for - how about these? About halfway down the page there are vintage strat knobs.
  15. johnsilver
    Sounds like a good solution for the binding. And the yellowing looks good.
  16. johnsilver
    Mortarman, I just came across this thread. Very nice! I'll bet you can't wait to get it strung up. Were you able to work out the 1/4" binding in the cutaway? I don't know anything about Golden Age pups. I put a Duncan Custom and Duncan Pearly Gates (bridge and neck) in the LP I completed recently. My son is the player and he is very happy with them. Great work.
  17. johnsilver
    It will help the folks here if you tell what type of wood you were using, what your sanding procedure was and what finish you applied. All of those variables can be involved in the problem you are describing.
  18. johnsilver
    I played with the heat gun a bit. The variable heat is a great feature. Once you set it, a constant temp is maintained, and you can dial up or down and it responds quickly. At the lowest heat setting, I can hold my hand comfortably a few inches away without moving it. At the highest temp, better stand back cause somethings gonna blow. Fair warning though. The gun is a little bigger that I thought when I bought it. Not too big by any means but bigger than my wife's mini hair dryer.
  19. johnsilver
    Exactly. Especially the part about gluing my fingers to the body. I've used Weld On and the method WezV describes and prefer his method mucho.
  20. johnsilver
    David, congratulations on the new workshop. How exciting, and that on top of a move, etc, etc. All the best in your new digs.
  21. johnsilver
    Quite right. Thanks for the help folks.
  22. johnsilver
    I just tried out the nailer / stapler. I've never used one before. I had a ball punching brads and staples into scrap baltic birch plywood. Probably doubled the weight of the plywood pieces with metal. He he. Don't know how long it will last but looks to be useful. Now I'll buy some different size brads / staples. Any thoughts on the most useful sizes for general hoo haa?
  23. johnsilver
    Primal, you described the problem exactly. Jon, his current 7 string is 1.895" at the nut, which is just wider than 1 7/8" (1.875"). So you are saying that common Floyd locking nuts vary by 1/8". If I added 1/8" on to his existing measurement, the nut width would be just wider than 2" (2.02"). It seems to me if the manufacturer's choices vary by 1/8", that may be a good starting point for me.
  24. johnsilver
    I think the process being recommended is to drill out some of the inlay, route out the rest leaving a small margin around the edges and then removing the edges using a sharp chisel or something similar to pry it out gently. That will leave a clean edge with which to fit the new inlay block. By routing out all the way to the edge, you run the risk of routing into the edge and changing the shape of the pocket.
  25. johnsilver
    Agree completely. This happened to me on my first set of block inlay. Here is a thread that contains advice on how to fix this from Clavin - inlay artist. chipped inlay thread
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