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GregP

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Everything posted by GregP

  1. Interesting stuff! A bit boomier in the mids than the Carvin. A bit of tweaking to suit the axe (although it already sounds good!) and the clean tone's going to be stonkin'. Distorted tone is already good... almost indistiguishable from the Carvin in places. Greg
  2. Egg-zelent work. Thanks for showing that you don't need a tonne of specialty tools! Greg
  3. I'm dum. It's the maple that's the small piece-- it shouldn't be overly heavy that way.... or at least not moreso than a big slab of Korina is in the first place. ;-)
  4. I'm still new... and ignorant... but I thought the ratio of maple to korina in that particular piece would make that thing fairly heavy and also snappy-sounding? Or have I learned nothing as a padawan apprentice? Greg
  5. Those prices are ridiculous. PM in...
  6. Love it! It really does integrate well with the lower horn, as you intended. Success! Greg
  7. Thanks for that. At first, the thought of the electroacoustic sustainer didn't appeal to me, what with the extra cables, etc. But on second thought-- I'm not in a band, and nor am I likely to be in one in the forseeable future, if ever. If the feedback becomes a part of my style in the meantime, I'll consider a magnetic style or just deal with the cable when the time comes. Cheers! Greg
  8. I always wanted a sustainer... but I can't sacrifice my neck position, as it's the pickup position I use 95% of the time. Are there any other options? ie. Will it work in the middle position? Greg
  9. Also, when a vote's to the wire, and for their own reasons people vote one particular way, it in no way diminishes their respect and admiration for your work; it just means that they had to pick only one. I'm sure many people would love to own the Korina dinky.
  10. I'd be curious to find out, too. The 'open face' and 'split pole' are grabbing my interest. Greg
  11. Soapbar pickups are generally just plastic. It'll be tough getting an even coat with just a brush, but any kind of paint that's used for plastic models would work. Try a hobby shop to see what they have. As for economy, I dunno-- it'll depend on the kind of paint they recommend. Either way, were it me, I would probably still lightly sand with fine sandpaper to give a bit of a 'matte' texture to the surface before painting. The usual disclaimers about me talking out of my butt apply. Greg
  12. Well, 'all' is pretty all-encompassing, but you'll find that yes, they should 'all' be the same if they're made to Fender specs. Other manufacturers have tele look-alikes that won't necessarily conform to Fender specs, though. Greg.
  13. No idea. You could always shim if there's not enough wood. Line up the neck, ignoring the wee gap that's there and only focusing on centering it. Mark your drill locations, etc., and then figure out the best way to get some wood-to-wood contact AFTER everything lines up nicely. Of course, I don't know what I'm talking about, so I'm just hypothesizing. Greg
  14. The 'right' glue will have a different brand name depending on what country you're in (Titebond is the one recommended on this forum most often), but as far as I know all you need is wood glue. If that's not correct, I have to rethink my entire project. <grin> Greg
  15. Nice! I hear that a stead stream of Chet Atkins and Albert King during the last trimester will sort a baby out really well. Greg
  16. I started with chords, including a F barre chord, fingered the 'cheaters' way by only barring the high F and C and not reaching all the way across to the low F. Of course, I didn't know the names of the notes, I just knew how to hold my hand. The song? Proud Mary, CCR version. How long did it take? 2 months... ugh... In the meantime, I sort of learned a few other chords, kind of. I wasn't as good as Dan the Man, that's for sure. Greg
  17. Also, as I was closing the Googlefight window, it suddenly occurred to me: "Ninjas" is the incorrect pluralization of "ninja". The plural of 'ninja' is simply 'ninja'. It's possible that this grammatical oversight coloured the results. The updated and grammatically correct googlefights produced the following results: Pirates Vs. Ninja or Pirate vs. Ninja Now, Ninja win straight-up, even against ALL pirates, which would include aforementioned hackers and computer savantes. Imagine how easily they would crush the pitiful pirates of the sea, if you took their (superior, let me remind you) brothers in arms wielding computer mice out of the equation? Greg
  18. Incidentally, I followed your recommendation and started off with Freud. ;-) In my case, since they didn't have 7/32" in stock where I went, I just got 3/16 and I'll go a bit wider in subsequent passes. Wish this thread had come along last week, though-- although I suspected that a 1/4" bit would be fine with shimming and silicon, I decided to play it safe and go for a smaller rather than larger bit. That'll mean more precision on my part when I do the subsequent passes. I'm not good at precision. <laff> Greg
  19. Your proof is weak and flabby, much like a pirate. Proof of my own If bespectacled computer pirates win against eyepatch-wearing sea pirates, then you can bet that a ninja will trounce either. Cheers, Greg
  20. I think most people will find that the aperature of the ferrule is a wee bit smaller than the string-through passage to the top of the guitar. Of course, this will depend on the ferrule. You can always have a peek, sjaguar.
  21. OR, Buy some MDF, which is really easy to work, and make your template using other tools, like a drum sander (just as an example). Greg
  22. I think part of what they're trying to say is that if you're going to try to do something 'free hand', you might as well go all the way and do it completely manually, ie. with the chisels. ;-) Of course, they're very subtle in their responses.
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