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This is kinda funny cause this doesn't come up often, but I've answered this exact question to 3 different people in the past month. The problem is with the way your bridge pickup is made. Pickups like tele neck, tele bridge, P90s, 2-cable humbuckers with covers are problematic for this. The reason is that they generally only come with a coil-start and coil-end wire. Annoyingly, they don't expect people to want to phase switch so they multi-purpose one of the wires as a GROUND as well. They figure you're just going to solder it to ground anyways. What I mean by this is they are running a jumper from one wire to the cover/plate to ground that too. It works fine when in normal. However, when you swap the wires, your 'hot' now is a ground hahahaha. Solution: Unwire the jumper that goes to the cover/base-plate and run that independently to ground (either with a single wire or by upgrading the entire pickup to have a 3-conductor cable out). Best of luck! Chris

Ummmm.... that's REALLY quartered. Not sure what you mean by "This is about as close"... Chris

That's great. There's nothing quite like a big leaf mohog OM! I love mine. Obviously it works amazingly for necks, bodies, back/sides, etc. if the wood is of correct dimension. Chris

Buy 4/4 flatsawn wood in the right length and laminate it up as per dpm99 said. Or if you can find nice 8/4 perfectly quartersawn (sapele is a good bet there) you can use that. But yes, if laminating and not using perfectly quartered, or perfectly flat (turned on edge and laminated) you should oppose the grain so stresses cancel out. Chris

If you like the idea of them, but not the look check out CatsWhisker Pickups UK. He does one called the Siamese which is a TRUE single coil (rod mags, not a blade) with a P90. The best part, chrome covered Chris

2, 4, 7, or 12. Chris

It does not need CITES to my knowledge. Brazilian mohog is just big leaf mohog (commonly called Honduran) grown in Brazil. I believe the stuff FROM HONDURAS needs papers. But not brazil... I pick that up paperless from my local yard on the regular. It's good mohog, especially if it's aged... But it's no holy grail find... Your local lumber yard probably has some. Chris

Hot! Sold! Building one. Chris

I currently use the LMI rods. I think we've steered off course a little bit here. I'm looking for the best LOW PROFILE rods. Not just rods in general. I have to build a neck that's .68" at 1st, and .77" at 12th... that's a thin neck. I'd LIKE to put a double-action in... but it's looking like they may all be the same thickness- give or take. Chris

I'm making a friend a replacement neck for his Ibanez Prestige... It's pretty thin. .68" at the first, .77" at the 12th. The necks this model comes with are 'titanium reinforced' I'm guessing due to the thinness. I'll be doing carbon fiber rods to counter this thinness. However, I DO want to put a double action rod... I really don't like single actions especially when using harder fretboards which can get some compression back bow from fretting. What's your favorite low-profile double action rod? I currently use the LMI ones. At 3/8" depth, if I go it's a thinner .22" FB I can sneak out .85" behind the rod. I'd LIKE a little more, so I'm open to recommendations. Chris

If you go that route I'd be happy to be available as a reference. Chris

I have a walk through on that forum for building mine. Cheap ad easy. Chris

Thread was done this weekend I just got off my lazy butt and made a 27/28 double-sided template in alum. Chris

Hey guys. Thanks for all the help. Took some OLF advice and I now have a 27" and a 28" I love the metal scale, that's hilarious! I do the same with my 25.5". Cut off one fret and you have 24-1/16" for jaguar Chris

Gah! I do have 34" and 35"... sadly I made them to be only 24 frets! It looks like I'm going to have to make this one too. Was kind of hoping to avoid that as I hate jig building and stuff, especially for something I plan to only use once. Meh, if you see a pic of a scale template up later today, I caved hahaha. Chris

Hey guys, I have to slot a board for a build that's getting a 27" scale. I don't generally build baritones so I don't have one, nor do I really feel like shelling out a ton of cash to get one. So I was thinking... anyone wanna lend me their's? I'll obviously cover shipping both ways! Thoughts? Chris

I'm gunna say that if I were to build one... I wouldn't care if I had poles for all strings, unless it bothers you aesthetically. Look at diagrams of the fields, not the poles look... You're covered Also, I seem to remember seeing a tele 12 where 6 went through body, the other six anchored at the rear of bridge old school tele bridge style. Chris

You sir are awesome! Thanks! Chris

You're ballsier than I. I have this innate fear of routing the neck pockets before things are carved, sanded, etc. etc. Your belly carve is extremely original. I really like it! Chris

No rush! Thanks in advance! Chris

I'm thinking about putting one of the VS100s on a build I have in progress right now. Since I'm not generally a trem guy, haven't built before with a Fender-style trem, and specs seem to be hard to find online, I was hoping you could help me out with some measurements? - How high off the body did you sit the bottom of the base plate? I've heard this can affect playability but I'm not a trem guy enough to really know much about how. - What's the height to the bottom of your strings on the Es? - Lastly, you seem to have a different sized "block cavity" for the trem block from the front then you do from the back? From the back it appears bigger as you see a "lip" of the top left? What was the reason for this? Also, the routing templates I have found for these online have this extra bit cut out so that they're not a perfect rectangle (with rounded corners). Your's doesn't have this, your's appears to be a standard rectangle with rounded corners. Did this work fine for you? What dimensions were your cavity? Thanks, Chris

So I don't update these threads very often. Mainly cause I build slow as molasses sometimes cause there are so many different projects. However, there's stuff to show here! Yay! I set the neck on the tele-esque as it needs no angle so I just went ahead and did it. Also got logos inlaid into these headstocks and like 3 others. And finally, I routed out the pickguards. I'm super happy with how they've turned out! Still have to make the metal sections for the Jaguar-esque one, but you get the idea. Actually managed to video and edit the routing of that pocket! Hopefully will get it done with a Myka jig here in the next week and then I can put out my "How to Route Neck Pockets" tutorial. Chris

I change my answer to a PERMANENT holding SPDT lol Chris

My order arrived today and I TOTALLY get what Lenny was saying about how to wire it as a kill switch now that I have one in my hands. Don't know how I didn't see it... but literally just connect the two lugs of this button to the two lugs on your output jack. That way, when the button is pressed, it connects the two lugs, and routes EVERYTHING to ground. Durr... I will say though, I'm not sure what I'll do with the "person" button I ordered as it's VERY tall. But I'm glad I ordered it! I saw a couple buttons with 3 lugs instead of two and was HOPING they were some form of SPDT... they're not. They're still a momentary switch. Just this time it's a momentary REROUTE instead of connect. So the signal goes from the comm. lug to lug A until the button is pressed. For the duration of the press, the signal goes from the comm. lug to lug B instead. Not sure what this does to help me yet, but I'm sure I'll find something fun Oh... there will be fun Chris

I'm hoping there's some time lapse there or I was just put to shame and this went together SO quickly! Looks nice. Didn't know how I'd feel about that deep carve with the multiple woods AND binding.... but I like it now that I see it. Where do you live man? Looks nice as heck off your balcony! Chris