dcamp67

Agree with PP, build the kit.

If price is an issue, why not go with a combo instead if a head/cabinet? They are usually cheaper for the same output wattage, and you can always rent a cabinet and use the 8 ohm line out if you need the cabinet power at an outdoor gig. I use a Fender Stage 100, and have only had to rent a cabinet 1 time for a big outdoor event. Alot of the time I just use my Fender 30 for bar gigs, It's plenty loud enough, and we mike it thru the board to the P.A. anyway. Musiciansfriend has a blem Stage 100 here as an example. You can't beat Fender tone with onboard effects for $417.00 Rock on.....

I KNEW it wasn't English I was hearing when I was there!!!! Everyone tried to convince me that the English spoke the same language as us over on this side of "the pond", but I understood the damn Scots and Irish better than the Yorkies and northerners!!!! Tell me, master of ESL, what is your first language up there?????

Why? Is it THAT good????

Sorry wes, you're right...

Never mind

Can the Hipshot be fitted with the Graph Tech String Saver Saddles?

Curtis You are doing great for someone who hasn't been playing that long! There has been lots of good advice given here regarding feel and touch, and I agree with it all. Don't forget to learn some of the (boring) technical stuff, though. Learn the location of every note on the fretboard (it's not that hard, take your time, one string per day) and start learning the basic movable scales (here). The scales are great for warming up, and will form the foundation for knowing how to relate lead to your chord progessions as you write. Learn the circle of fifths, and how the chords relate to each other. I know this seems like a lot of theory, but it's realy not, and I DO know how boring that stuff can be. The theory will help you understand how the music works together, and give you more "feel" for the song, which will translate into your playing. BTW, the magazine at the 7-11 was probably Guitar World, BUY IT!!!! The current issue has a ton of good info on practice regimentation, and how to improve. I bought two extra copies so I could cut it apart and tape together the good parts. The last thing I would suggest is to find someone to play with. Why are you learing to play guitar? To sit around in your bedroom and shred? No, to play in front of others. That means with other musicians. The earlier you get used to timing yourself to another persons playing (even if THEIR timing sucks!!!!!) the better bandmate you will be. I remember the first band I joined, I had only been playing about 1.5 years, and the other guitarist was a flat out SHREDDER (who couldn't keep time to save his life). I learned more, in a shorter period of time, than I had before or since. Being responsible to the other members of the band to know your part and the other guitarists part of 35-45 songs will drive you to practice more than anything else!!! Good luck, and keep practicing!

There is one on ebay right now for those of you who might be interested... Here you go!

It's "My Sherona" and it's by "The Knack".

If I may be so bold as to jump in the deep end here and dogpaddle with the Olympic swimmers.... If you havent done it already, the MOST important thing you can do is to learn and commit to memory exactly where every note on the fretboard is. This will make learning the scales infintely more easy, and relating the scales to the progession more simplified. I played for a few years, and struggled to memorize scales (generally learning "patterns" rather than the scale itself) before I sat down over the course of 1 week and learned the entire fretboard map (one string per day, don't make it hard on yourself!! ). I have been able to learn scales, rather than memorize patters, ever since then. Second most important thing you can do.......... HAVE FUN!!!!!

BUT.... if you take off too much wood with a power sander, you make the neck too thin (manufacturers don't put a lot of "exta" wood on their necks...) and likely to snap when you put the tension of the strings on it.

I just finished hand sanding the laquer and stain off the neck of my project. I used 220 and 320 dry grit cut into 2" X 2" squares to get everything off. It took me about 20 hrs. of sanding (and a true appreciation for the Zen meaning of "patience" ), but I didn't change the contour or remove any excess wood from the neck. My .02? Go slow, be patient, do it right. You only get 1 chance to get it right before it's screwed up and you have to buy a new neck. Good luck!!!!!!!

If I'm planning on putting a Tung Oil finish on my Mahogany neck, do I need to use a wood filler before putting the oil on?

Thanks for answering, wes. I WAS considering a JET, but I did a search on ER in this forum and have read most of the stuff about him, as well as following the links to other forums and reading the "thoughts" there. I think I will try to find another seller of Jeff's guitars......

Wes, why do some folks here have a problem with Ed? I have scanned his site, and while he seems to be an SOB, he seems like a fair buisnessman. Any reason why I shouldn't buy a guitar from him?

I read this description as to how to do a LP-style carved top, and will probably use it. Three questions: 1) Does the curve follow the outer shape when tracing the lines for the router to follow? 2) Are there any templates to show where to stop, or how much to leave on the "top"? 3)Has anyone found or used another method to carve a LP-type top (other than just chiseling it out, or guestimating with a sander)? Thanks.

The Washburn that I am currently redoing was an non-recessed Floyd, and it dented and marred the finish. I had to sand the dents out, they were so deep that moisture and heat wouldn't raise them. I am either going to fill the trem cavity and use a TOM or Bigsby, or retrofit a Gotoh/Wilkinson trem assembly. I don't like Floyds to begin with, but if you are goin to put onr on, rout the recess and use the cork/rubber to protect..... Good luck!!!!!

Does anyone know if [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Guitar,_tremolo/1/Wilkinson_Gotoh_Vintage_style_Tremolo_Bridges/Pictures.html#details"]this[/url] will drop in and replace a Floyd trem without any body rout modifications?

Can Tung oil be applied over an India Ink or other kind of stain as a matte finish/protectant?

The Edge used one, apparently. Here is a site that tells a littlr about it. Scroll down to the third guitar discussed.

I did some searching thru the links section and found this MightyMite There is a Gibson neck blank there. but I don't know if it's bolt or glue.... Good luck!!!!!

Hi everybody, just a quick update. First, much thanks and props to Brian for steering me in the right direction on how to get that glued in neck off. I used a wagner heat gun set to low temp, and waved it back and forth across the top HB pocket at a hight of about 6" for fifteen min, then went around to the back by the heel and waved the gun around the joint for about 5 min. With a MINIMUM of pressure, the neck fell out into my hand, smooth as butta! Now I can get to work on routing out the trem cavity and filling it for the stop tail/ bigsby. Does anyone have any opinion of which I should install? The TOM or the Bigsby? I'm kind of torn, the Bigby on Joe Perry's flame top LG looks SOOOOO SWEET , but I love the feel of a stop tail TOM. Than again, I want some kind of trem option, just not that Floyd..... Opinions are being solicited, and are appreciated.

Thanks for the link BLS, it is exactly what I want to accomplish. I decided to sand the finish off the body today, until someone can help me out with the glue in neck removal, my hands are still singing to me from 8 hrs with the orbital sander! Anyway, I'm still looking for some help with the best way to get a glued in set neck off without destroying either the neck or the body. Thanks!

Hi all, I have read thru all the threads and you have answered so many of my questions without my even having to ask them. Thank you already. I still have two questions that I need answered before I start the whole project. First off the project is a Washburn RS-10V that I want to refinish, flame veneer the top, and convert the Floyd Rose bridge to either a stop tail or a Bigsby trem. My questions are: 1) how do I get the glued-in neck off to do the work on each piece separately (and is it even necessary to take of the neck)? 2) How do I fill in the cavity left by the removal of the Floyd? What is the best kind of wood to use, etc. I know the veneer will cover all the wood lines and dowel plugs from the Floyd mount, so in not worried about neatness until the final sanding and staining. Thanks for your help beforehand. This is a great site, and I will purchase all my stuff from Brian's site to help support it.