westhemann

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry310071 once again you are agreeing with yourself...i am turning this matter over to admin

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry310415 and why in this thread do you answer your own question?again...the one post is the same ip as the other post(msduke and dino)but yet a different ip than the ones in this thread. i think you are playing the forum..or trying anyway...if the "other guy" is not you,but just someone else at the shop or at your house,why would you answer the question on the forum instead of person to person?if you know this "other guy" why is it not mentioned?

dino...you mind explaining why the guy agreeing with you has your same ip address before i must send you on vacation for breaking forum rules and having two memberships?what else am i to assume here?

that guitar is much too nice for an ass like that....tell him to call bc rich andask how long it would take them to build a custom shop guitar,and how much it would cost in the end... personally i would keep the guitar and reimburse him for the hardware and wood he paid for,then finish it for myself... to be honest...the gall of the guy burns me up....if what you say is true anyway...

i must say though...gorilla glue is the messiest thing you could have possibly used...except perhaps for radioactive foaming kangaroo turds...(i know...where are you going to find a 'roo next to a nuclear power plant....)

the s is brighter with more snap than the sa...so i guess that makes it a little better on the clean tones

well...alot is dependant on what you expect from a finish..."what is a beginner to do?"i firmly believe all told the preval sprayers plus a "reasonable cost" finish such as catalyzed laquer or varnish is much more cost effective than the spraycans...but again,if you want only a decent but not really durable finish,then minwax(defthane)polyurethane is fine...but you really must wait alot longer for cure... let's do the math http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/clearcoatand.html nitro in a spraycan from reranch...16 oz for $13...how many cans would you say it takes for a guitar body?let's go conservative at 5...thats $65.. wait...now that's what i paid for the catalyzed varnish....thinner,catalyst,paint...everything...an entire gallon of it.and it cures much faster and harder than any spray can nitro i ever used... but you still need spray equipment preval sprayer from stewmac...$6(actually a little less)...power unit replacement...$5...probably 5 power units and one jar to do the body...that's $26 so really...even if you buy a quart of 2 pac...it is still more cost effective to do the "expensive" finish...plus you get the benifit of a better end product and an easier time making the finish presentable to begin with..... i don't know...i mean i have done my share of spray can finishes...and the defthane poly was by far the best of those....but it still makes me sad that i spent so much time on a finish that doesn't really last. to be honest,i doubt i will use the varnish for more than just redoing some guitars i have lying around...practice and such...it is better by far than the spraycan stuff,but i still want to go the whole nine yards for my explorer... my plan is to play with the varnish for the next month or so,then finish the explorer in 2 pac auto poly.......probably with the preval sprayer(yeah i know) this summer i plan to build a spray shed...at that point i will get spray equipment and start shooting it properly. bottom line is that spraycans are a stepping stone,nothing more....by all means start out with spraycan pain(defthane or minwax polyurethane)...but eventually everyone must move ahead to the next step in one form or another....

i understand the bad feeling...it's the same feeling i get when i have to stomp on a cute little puppy because it was born with it's brain outside... sorry...that's not really true...i have not done that since i was a kid...

oh...one more thing...don't be confused by the "water white" term...it's not water borne,water based,and it is not white water white just means it is clear....rather than amber tinted like some laquers and such

the metal zone does not destroy tone...you just have to set it right....it has very tight,focused distortion and chording works well with it...you can hear every nuance of a full 6 string chord,and can clearly hear when you change a finger position on any string in that chord. people that think it destroys tone may just not understand what a good live metal tone is....but it does not come across well during recording,that's for sure

sure...just have a whole bunch of guitars floating around with the myka name on them which myka will wince at every time he thinks about them....hopefully slabbefusk,the part of you that died is the part that accepts "good enough" i fully understand why you had to destroy them....i have a few that will get their own funeral once i am finished trying things out on them

by the way a gallon will do considerably more than a couple of guitars

sher-wood water white conversion varnish...it is a catalyzed varnish which has a timetable of 45 minutes from spray to sand,then spray again and repeat until finish is as thick as you want it,then stop,wait ,buff,and let sit i would reccomend a week before checking the hardness before assembling(it claims full cure in 24hours,but at the thickness of most guitar finishes,i would wait a week and check) it costs $35 for a gallon...plus $22 for the catalyst,plus about $10 for the thinner...be sure to specify full gloss because the catalyst varies depending on desired gloss...it claims "bartop durability" and it hangs well on a vertical surface. i am not going to say it is as hard as auto poly,because i don't think it is...but it seems to be as hard as proffesional nitro finishes...but it claims more resistance to fading and checking ask for the info sheet with it,they will make a copy of it for you. one very important couple of things...has to be at least 70 degrees f to spray and during cure....it also has a chart saying how fast cure is at higher temperatures,it has a pot life of 24 hours,but i have been using a pot up within 30 minutes or so,then cleaning the pot and mixing more...read the info sheet for the full spraying and sanding schedule... make sure the dyes or pigments you use are compatible with varnish also....5 mm is maximum thickness of finish to prevent chipping....but each coat should be no more than 1/2 a mm thick until it cures,then add another until you reach what you want.ask as many specific question as you can think of while you are there about it

if you have a spray set up already,and you do auto painting,then why are you messing around with wal mart,etc?they have nothing you want...all those places you mention are nothing but hobby houses,more or less. you need a specialty paint store that deals in high quality finishes...like sherwin williams or any place that sells 2 pac laquer/varnish/or polyurethane.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemde...IT-KC210/212-QT i know you said you don't want to order online...but you need to get over that or else find a specialty store local.those places you mention do not have high quality clear...not in any i have ever been in...they have house paint and hobby spray cans.the big cans of one part paint are not any more quality than the rattlecan stuff...they still have been adapted for a longer shelf life...if they were not,they would harden in the can 2k auto clear is exactly what you need...and sounds like you already know where to get it. just so you know,most guitar manufacturers use the same paint as the auto houses

i have an 81/s/s in one guitar...they are awesome single coils...very snappy,i prefer them over the sa as the sa is a bit less snappy

stop posting repeat topics...you are very bad about that and if you are going to continue asking questions without searching,the least you can do is wait patiently for the answer in the original thread..what you are doing is "blowing up" the forum...akin to paging someone who doesn't want to talk to you over and over and over until they get angry and finally call you back...it is rude,shows your impatience,and makes people not want to help you...i myself ignore your questions most of the time because of the way you behave THREAD CLOSED

been a long time since i looked into the minwax...but i believe it is the same formulation as the defthane...i think it is made at the same plant.. like i said,the defthane ultimately gets pretty hard...but it takes forever to cure...though not as long as the deft nitro... but seriously...all spraycan stuff is messed with to increase the shelf life...it has to be made to cure slower in order to increase the shelf life...i just don't see any way around that. lok...i have a reasonable solution for ya'll...try out the preval sprayers at stewmac....all in all i think they come out as only slightly more expensive per guitar finished(if at all)...i would have to do the math though... the preval unit comes with a jar and the aeresol part...the aeresol refill is available seperately...so if you clean your jar often,you only need one of the entire units with many aeresol sections... so far,one aeresol unit sprays a little more than 120 cc of liquid...you can buy a 2 part finish or a catalyzed varnish(which is what i am using right now)and spray according to the paint directions on the paint you buy(mine is 3% catalyst/15% thinner)and it sprays right through the aeresol...all it is is a compressed air canister.it works very well. so i spent $65 total on paint,thinner,and catalyst,then a little more(don't recall the #) on the preval sprayer and replacement power units...and i have enough paint(high gloss clear)to spray roughly 10 or so guitars(i think..) personally i think it even comes out cheaper....defthane is nearly $5 a can if i remember right,and it takes like 7-10 cans per guitar. and with the preval unitys there is nothing to clean except a jar...right after painting you swish some thinner around in the jar and that's it.i think it's pretty cool... i'm not saying it's the be all/end all...but it's pretty easy and you can use it to spray a better product...any type you want...but i would look into each finish and make sure it can be sprayed thin enough to go through it...my varnish sprays quite well through it at the reccomended 15% thinner

some things t think about...ho would you get rid of the first fret?because the strings are likely to rest on it as they break over the nut,which would cause buzzing because the strings would not seat well... if you get rid of the first fret entirely,how would you cover the truss rod rot which would then be exposed? if you get rid of the first fret,and your truss rod is a dual action,there will be nothing for the truss rod nut to work against... i say it's a bad idea

well...i have never even thought about it...i think it would work...kind of like a permanent capo...but all of your fret markers would be off...your 12th fret would then be 11....and it would look very bad. but why would you want to do that?what is wrong with 25.5"?

i don't think i understand your question....it seems as if you think chopping off the 24th fret will somehow shorten the scale from 25.5 to something less than that...that's not how it works,buddy....the scale is based on ALL the frets placement...22,24,or 93 frets is not going to change that in any way...your bridge will still need to be 25.5" from the nut....no less it would allow you more space for pickups...but that's it

well,i am not trying to dig at you dino...but as a matter of curiousity i must say the question by aidlook was fair...although worded a bit harsh.. now...after starting replying to this topic it just so happens that i have started refinishing a guitar i built years ago and finished with spraycan polyeurethane(defthane brand) when i first did the refinish i let the guitar sit for 4 months before assembling,and it was still soft enough that the hardware sunk into the finish....but after sitting in my music room for the last few years,it has hardened to the point that it is extremely difficult to sand off...and i mean extremely.i think it may be as hard as anything else...now to repeat,that was defthane poleurethane...not krylon or anything else. the guitar i finished in krylon is still not as hard as you need guitar paint to be...during sanding it balls up in the sandpaper...and that is after about 3 years of sittingon my wall. but i don't believe the hype on any "brand" of spraycan nitro or anything else...it is NOT the same as what gibson uses....it may well be the same company(mcfaddens)...but to put it in a spraycan and have it sit on a shelf with a pot life of UP TO A YEAR it absolutely HAS to have additives(retarders and thinners of some type)that cause it to be so....and they cause full cure to not be reached anywhere near as fast... it is very easy to put up pics that show a very nice finish upon completion,but that says nothing for the durability...none of the guitars i have refinished have had the durability of the factory finish that you normally see on everything these days...and i have to say that is because the spray can mix is inferior....in every way. and i think all of you that are so dead set on rattle cans are going to find the same thing out on your wn...it gets very frustrating when all your time and effort just goes for nothing in the en. as a hobby,you can paint for fun with spraycans....but if the desired result is to be compareable to what yo see on ibanez,esp,etc...or even gibson with those nitro finishes,the spray cans will not get you there...sorry.

yeah mickgaurd...transmission fluid turns mahogany very red(but good luck finishing it),and dran-o really changes the color of alot of woods...including mahogany. light?i think you are out of luck...uv naturally darkens alot of woods,but that just happens no matter what. there is one substance which is well known to change the percieved color of wood and other substances on application....it is called paint...and i think you may be trying to get a bit foofy when the answer is really in the realm of the mundane

keep in mindhe already said he would take it down to 21 frets if he needed to.

no,thickness does not depend on # of coats...sherwood for example reccomends a coat of no more than .5 mm each time...as many times as you want up to 5 mm... krylon is much less per coat,hence the greater # of coats needed to reach the same film thickness i believe you ARE a bit confused,as you said..hehe

sorry dino..i would love to have one of those spirited debates with you...but your argument is flawed because it is entirely based on supposition...besides my internet connecetion is giving me trouble right now. bottom line...forget the voodoo...the good finish is the good finish..tone plays no part.pick the finish you like and go with it based on durability or whatever else...all the tone stuff is just so much hooey.