Kevan

I'm glad you guys enjoyed my little chunks of humor in an otherwise all-business site. There's nothing like combining a line from "Commando" with an old school PG/Ibanez ad for one big laugh. LOL For the record, I left Paul's at the LACS for him to pick up. It was an early b-day present. :-P I'm not sure if he's put it in yet or not. We'll see.... I have NO CLUE as to MSRP or street/FleaBay prices on these. I'll toss out a HUGE guess and say more than $5. :-) There is no Tremol-No booth at NAMM (unless one of you wants to give me the $2500 necessary for their smallest display space, 10' x 10'). Showings/demonstrations will be by invite-only at our hotel suite. Don't expect pics/video of Ed Roman from the Tremol-No suite. :-)

NYJ- It turns "on" and "off" via the two thumbscrews. It differs from the TremSetter in that it does NOT bring you back to "zero" if you break a string. The Tremol-No will NOT cure any tuning/floating issues you might currently have with your trem. It is simply designed to lock and unlock your trem. It will, however, work with a TremSetter. Imagine this ultimate setup: TremSetter D-Tuna Tremol-No Floating bridge tuning heaven.

Mike- if you want to put it on the front of your guitar, I think there's a position open in the tech dept. at Guitar Center. LOL

I've got a little sumtin'-sumtin' for you guys: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...opic=4337&st=0& Enjoy.

I wanted you guys to have a 2 week head-start on the NAMM folks. Don't let "Glensite" fool you. It was posted here FIRST.

This is the first formal announcement of the Tremol-No. My name is Kevan Geier, and I'm the inventor of the Tremol-No. http://www.tremol-no.com http://www.tremolno.com (NOTE: The site is constantly being updated) Let me know if you guys have any questions and I'll get them answered as best I can.

Dan- an Australian company had the same idea in the mid-80's. They sold their idea to WD Products. It was a little plastic tube piece with a 4-40 rod at the end for "adjustments". Basically a "one-way" product. (Funkle- thanks for the pic) The wood block method is alright, but usually a pain in the ass-takeshi. There's a better way. A *much* better way. And it's coming soon. :-) Dis-believers: Brian (the site owner here) will have his "better way" to test out in the next 24-48 hours, depending on mail delivery. Ask him what he thinks of it. Trem owners are about to be very happy.

- When you camp out for 2 days for G3 tickets, still knowing full-well that Yngwie is the third G. - When you finally hear the last bearing burn out in your Dremel, and subsequently hold a small, private ceremony and bury it in the back yard. - When you get "sawdust boogers". Ebony sanding produces some interesting ones. - When you can fluently justify spending $700 on a 30x30x2" piece of spalted maple. - When you can hear 'the sound' of single-coils thru a Marsh*ll stack....on a recording. - When you can hear 'the sound' of humbuckers thru a Marsh*ll stack....on a recording.

The FR *patent* has expired, but the copyrights and trademarks are still owned, which means they could, potentially, get paid....depending on what you guys come up with, and what's used in advertising/marketing. You're right- there are a few piezo-equipped trems out there, but L.R. Baggs and Hoshino came up with the only double-locking one. If the designs here are ultra-different than what's currently out there, then consider filing for design and utility patents (about $7,000 to $10,000, or more) come up with a product name and get that copyrighted and trademarked (about another $3000). Then there's materials (say about $1000), and your shop time (figure $70/hr.) Cheap, eh? :-) Unless your design is *way* different than the LR/Hoshino design, you might end up paying royalties....if you sell them to the public. If you do them as a "one off" or "one for a friend", they probably won't hassle you.

Owners would include: L.R. Baggs, Ibanez/Hoshino-Gakki and Floyd Rose Industries. You can build one, but you'd end up paying all those folks royalties.....for about 19 years. :-)

I posted this in the other thread, but it fits here too: You're better off buying an old(er) Ibanez Double Edge equipped guitar (RG-6-CST, S-6-CST, 2020x, 620x, etc.), and transplanting the trem and preamp from that. It's the only double-locking system ever made. Ibanez does not sell the Double Edge system individually. WARNING: There are a bunch of very sensitive wires in that Double Edge system. Take EXTREME caution when working on/removing them. You could damage something and not even realize it. Oh yeah, and screwing with it will void your warranty. (Isn't that what this site is about- voiding your warranty as quickly as possible? LOL) If you need any help with wiring the Double Edge, or pulling one out, feel free to contact me. Who am I? I'm the guy that drew the wiring diagram that Ibanez sends out to people. :-) Also, forget about stereo jacks and stereo cables with the DE system. There is no stereo panel jack (that's what the jack is called on Ibanez/Jackson guitars). There's not enough room to put stereo/mono switching inside- I've tried. The 9-pin "box jack" that is out there, works on Strats (wtih some chiseling of wood) and a few others, but not on 'super strat' bodies. If you'd like a full description of "what does what" in regards to the wiring of 1st Gen. DE systems, CLICK HERE. A wiring diagram is available upon request. 2nd Gen. DE systems, such as the 620x, have a different preamp, and already have the KJG Wiring Mod done to them. I don't have a drawing for those, yet. :-) (Creepy- I just noticed that it's 3 years EXACTLY since that first post about the KJG Wiring mod! Ooooo.....)

You're better off buying an old(er) Ibanez Double Edge equipped guitar (RG-6-CST, S-6-CST, 2020x, 620x, etc.), and transplanting the trem and preamp from that. It's the only double-locking system ever made. Ibanez does not sell the Double Edge system individually. WARNING: There are a bunch of very sensitive wires in that Double Edge system. Take EXTREME caution when working on/removing them. You could damage something and not even realize it. Oh yeah, and screwing with it will void your warranty. (Isn't that what this site is about- voiding your warranty as quickly as possible? LOL) If you need any help with wiring the Double Edge, or pulling one out, feel free to contact me. Who am I? I'm the guy that drew the wiring diagram that Ibanez sends out to people. :-)

Danny- - Thread titles must be clear as to what the topic is. Do not post "Did You Know" or "How Do I" et. al. as titles. You need to be much more specific. - Work on the spelling...PLEASE! You're killin' me over here... http://www.wordsmyth.net It's free, and it's good. PLEASE! Bookmark it! Now! From here on out, I will simply delete threads instead of correcting them. Sorry man, but that's how it works.

Dan- Good to see another "vidiot" here..heh heh...Lectrosonic rules! LOL. We've got to get you one of those shirts that says "Got 9V?" (field audio guys will get that joke) This might sound like a little bit of pimping, so try to let that slide, but..... I know of a very uppity store on Long Island with Taylor 'Goldfish', and other super-pricey acoustics in their sound room. The amp they swear by: Ibanez Troubador. These are guys who love their boutique amps, and custom EB/MM guitars. They dig on that little amp. Definitely something to check out in your amp quest.

Man oh man, do I want to put up a huge post here...revolutionizing the guitar world...while making DaveQ a happy camper (and millions of other players/owners/builders)... .....but I can't. Not yet. Soon. I promise.

PGM wiring diagrams available here: http://www.ibanez.com/wiring/models.asp?t=e

Just turned 34. Next year, a whole new demographic. :-)

Danny...my man....work on the spelling, ok? Thanks. The Tone Zone pickups are extremely versatile. I have them in about 7 of my guitars (matched with the Air Norton). It's by far my favorite pickup combination in a guitar. DiMarzio makes a quality product that will last a very long time. Their customer service is also excellent. The other bonus is that they'll do whatever color you want (within reason) at no extra charge. Nice. If you're looking for "funk", you'll probably want to stick to single coil pickups (a la Str*t-type sound). Works for Nile Rogers....and he's fairly funky :-) In the end, it's gonna be up to YOUR EARS to make the final decision. We can sit here and type all day about how one pickup is "better" or "cooler" or "funkier" than another, but in the end....it's all decided by your ears. Good luck on your tone quest.

You need to go here: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/wiring/co...colorcodes.html Cross-reference what colors match what 'direction' (north-south, et al) on your specific pickup. Solder. Done. :-)

http://www.noproblemhere.com Shawn Lane passed away this evening (9.26.03). I'll be downstairs practicing his version of "All Along The Watchtower". RIP Shawn. You rocked.

Here's a link to the RS page for Multimeters: http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?cat...02%5F000&Page=1 The one for $59.99 looks good....and has the PC interface for printing out reports. Here's a link to the PartsExpress pages for DMMs: http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?we...ectGroup_ID=425 Some decent stuff in there. I'd guess it's a bit more durable than the RS stuff. I'm really hard on tools (just ask them), so I look for stuff that can take a beating, or has a lifetime warranty, like Craftsman hand tools. For Fluke stuff, there's McMaster.com (pages 649 thru 651). They [Fluke DMMs] are pricey, but....it's a name I trust. I'm sure some of the RS or PE DMMs are fine. Hell, mine doesn't plug into a PC. :-) McMaster only does non-company orders via their online store. If you want an actual catalog, become a company. :-P If this is your first DMM, I'd suggest something in the under-$100 range, probably from PE. Check out the Tripplet 3303 or 4404 models. Those should last you a good long time and both are under $100.

http://www.radioshack.com Decent multimeters for those on a budget, and a good return policy if you hate it. :-) Option 2: Look for anything that says "FLUKE" on the front. They're the industry standard, and are extremely reliable. I've had a Fluke 87 for years now and it's wonderful. Only had to replace the battery once. Oh, and I've dropped it or bumped it off many a table. :-P These units will cost more than the RS ones, but....they'll probably outlive you.

That "little bastard" is actually an extremely versatile switch. :-) Moreso than the Megaswitch. From the sounds of what you're asking for, you're looking for JPM-type wiring via a OTAX (aka VLX-91) switch. Is this correct? I did have the OTAX memorized way-back-when....when I was working on the KJG Wiring Mod for Double Edge guitars....but....I've slept since then. :-) Here's the KJG Wiring Mod diagram: http://www.jemfest.com/misc/kevan/dewiring-full1.jpg It's got the two DiMarzios with the OTAX switch, and a unique selection combination. Just ignore the piezo wiring stuff. It doesn't affect the DiMarzio wiring in any way. They're totally separate. Hopefully that helps in some way. I'll try to dig thru my notes and see if I can find the info on the OTAX 'build'.

The guitar you're referring to is the Transperformance LesPaul. It's a tad bit more than a "self-tuning guitar". It actually offers 118,000 different tuning combinations, all at the touch of a button. Yes- it self-tunes, but it is also constantly tuning the guitar while the unit is on (something like a dozen times a second). My friend Dave Beegle worked on the project with the guys at Transperformance. Dave also owns one. It's a pretty neat setup, but....HEAVY as hell. As if LPs didn't weigh enough. I remember the original version Dave had (circa 1996) was MIDI controlled, so you could use your feet to change the tunings mid-playing. Vai has one of these split trems on one of his white JEMs. Pic is here: http://www.vai.com/Machines/guitarpages/guitar108.html I'm not that coordinated. I'm sure Vai is. :-) I've seen just about every trem concieved (patents will do that to ya). I used to own a Wonderbar trem system, made by Washburn. It bolted flat onto the face of a body. No routing necessary. It worked on a cam/roller-based system. Not bad, but not the best either. Kahler had the Spyder (I think that was it) that was a "partial route" similar to the Wonderbar. Kahler also had the AutoLatch, which didn't do a very good job of turning your trem into a fixed bridge. Kahler also had that "Palm Arm" that could be attached to their trems. It had a big, flat handle-type head on a short arm. It was screwed in on the top side of the trem. It could be used for....ummm....errr...uhhh...did anyone use that thing? LOL Parker's trems don't have conventional compression springs. They work off of a plate-type spring, much like what you'd find in an old 60's studio reverb box. Pretty neat concept. JohnUK- toss me an email. I have some info for ya.

Naptha falls into the solvent category, though it does evaporate quickly (and makes a really pretty flame when ignited! Most of the "flames" you see in movies are courtesty of naptha. It photographs very well). I've not tried the eraser method, though it did work on my SATs. "A-C-D-C....A-C-D-C....A-C-D-C..." :-P WD-40 is a good suggestion. Make sure to clean off the body really well if you go this route. My suggestion is to use Goo-Gone. It's great for removing adhesives, and won't hurt your finish (of course, test in an inconspicious area...like your buddies PRS. LOL). Pour on a little bit of Goo-Gone, swirl it all over the adhesive with your finger. Wait about 10 minutes. Come back with a paper towel and wipe off the adhesive. Clean up with your favorite cleaner or polish; I usually spray some alcohol into a paper towel, wipe the area clean of any debris, then polish it with a cloth....but that's just me. Goo-Gone is good stuff. The $1.49 bottle should last you about a year. :-)