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RGGR

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Everything posted by RGGR

  1. I might steal that idea. First was thinking of this:
  2. Zebrano/Wenge/Maple, he? Any pics?
  3. Yesterday made pittstop at my local woodsupply store. The guys/girls there were complaning I was stopping by there way to often lately. I told them, if you enjoy doing something, it's hard to stop. So I was forced to pick up some more body blanks for future projects. (More about that later, first wanna finish current projects). While sieving through the wood supply, I picked up some maple, and some thin Wenge laminates, for future neck purposes. For my 8 string neck I picked up a nice Ebony fretboard, and I saw this nice thin blanks of Zebrano, that would be perfect for Maple/ Zebrano/Maple neck laminate. I think this would look nice in a 5 piece neck, having this small laminates of Zebrano in between the maple. Question now is ......Wenge would be perfect laminate candidate, as Wenge is very hard and stable. I never heard of Zebrano as neck blank material, and wonder how well it would perform as a neck laminate. Any ideas, suggestions, opinions. I got this quote of the net: Another option would be two Ebony laminates in the neck.......and although I think it will look awesome.....with the Zebrano is would more bring the neck and body together as one.
  4. If you're dealing with just a tid/tad/tiny bit of difference....I would say Epoxy. It's so much less cumbersome then the plug/redrill option.
  5. How would you go about replacing fretboard on binded neck. Meaning, current neck has binding, and I would like to replace the fretboard. With tutorial on this site, I'm pretty confident I could pull off a standard fretboard removal. But with the binding....I guess you have to remove and re-apply that too, right? Comments are welcome.
  6. Did some rough sanding on neck this afternoon. Front Bottom
  7. There are no neck Autocad files out there. You have to roll your own.
  8. I agree with you in theory. For newbie it's not an easy job, but for a newbie building a guitar is not an easy job. Reading your first thread I think it can be do-able for you. Why I come to this comclusion is, that you access to a lot of the necessary equipment. And your approach makes sense. First the choice of wood. For guitar you're after (with EMG pup combo) Alder or Mahogany makes perfect sense. Read up on both woods do search on Alder Tonewood on this site and you will find tons of information about this wood. Tone is perceptive and it's like explaining the color red to a blind man. So read up, and make a pick. The Alder body would be tid bit lighter, and maybe bit easier on your tools. You have the drawing of the guitar you want to make. You need to copy that to MFD template and use that as routing template. For neck wood: Maple would be a good choice. It's nice to work with, and can be finished super smooth. Fretboard: order pre-radiussed and preslotted from LMII.com. Saves you sh*tload of headache. For Floydrose.......you need to be good with Autocad and should be able to create good templates. Look [url=http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html]here
  9. Saw that the Kahler trem came without the toplock nut, what are you gonna do concerning the top nut???
  10. With this lighting, I kinda like the body.......the neck on the other hand is total no-no.
  11. Don't think this one will get an Ibanez logo. Ibanez never did fanned frets, so I think this guitar outpasses them.....will see what get's on the headstock. With Tele bridge I can make front of bridge follow angular line of frets, like the Conklin design. Have probable access to powdercoat unit so thinking of golden saddles on black (powdered) modified base plate. On basis of Warmoth PDF, I will start drawing somethings up in Autocad. Will see what looks best. They haven't answered my emails yet. And yes, their single string bridge looks very nice, but unfortunately I think it's too wide. Would love it if they make a 10mm wide version of it. Going the fanned frets route means I have to c*ck up my own bridge (or modify an existing bridge)....which makes things more complicated. Definately not as simple as ordering one off the selve. This Black Machine design is also starting to grow on me. I think when some more guitars are finished I'm gonna do one of these. Thin body, strange headstock, nice simple white binding on black guitar.
  12. Yep, that's wny I have to take another route......
  13. I think $285 for some simple standard graphtech saddles and some simple flimpy metal design.......is a bit steep. String thru body is not a problem. I kinda like that concept. What I don't like is that this design is way to wide (15mm), and yields a spring spread that is too wide for what I'm after. The ETS ones look very good, but will yield same problem in width area, I think. I set them a email asking for dimensions. Haven't heard back yet. Conklin has interesting design that looks like copy-able by cutting up two of these Tele style bridges
  14. This guy know his stuff, the last bike he painted won the Biker Build off in Daytona in 2006.
  15. Seriously not impressed with number of options in the single guitar string bridge department.
  16. Just talked to the guy......JS-7 currently has its candy apple color, and is working on the flames .....Hopefully full guitar is done first week of March. That's the trouble with these guys.......they deliver excellent work, so lots of people bring their projects, with result that work piles up, and up and up. Then again, I'm not in a hurry. No customer waiting for this puppy. The customer is me, and the customer wants it done right, instead of quick and dirty. So we will play the waiting game again. Tons of other guitar projects keeping me busy.
  17. Yep, is the way to go IMHO, only trouble is that with this kinda set-up it's impossible to have angle headstock.
  18. By putting the straight fret lower on the neck, so further away from the head/nut, you created more slanted frets closer to the nut. By putting it at the 5th you have the most confortable frets (almost straight or straight) in area,you often use for chords. So putting straight fret at 5th fret makes good sense to me. This is what the guy from Black Machine wrote on his website. I'm buying that. It's trick to keep fretboard as slim as possible. Nice slim 51 nut, and nice slim bridge spacing.
  19. That's part of the motivation to build this guitar to begin with. The whole 8 stringer idea is so darn intriging. And last few days I have been reading up on the issue concerning 8 stringers.......and the more I read about it (sevenstring.org, jemsite, here, etc) the more it all starts to come alive. And there are so many opinion and ideas of the "right path" it's almost like a religion. Lot's of opinions on fanned frets. Some aggressively against the whole idea. Sucking it all in, chewing on the different opinions, experiences, and ideas.......the fanned frets idea has won me over. I think it makes absolute perfect sense. Only real downside is that I can't order preslotted fretboards from somewhere, and I can't use a standard 8 stringer bridge. Something that will make the build more of a challenge. Looking at what's out there, this 884 from Black Machine seems to be the route I want to take. 884 Looking at the specs: Fanned frets: 25.5"-28" (workable compromise) Nut width: 51mm nut (manageable, so far manageble goes with 8 stringers) Staight fret positioned at the 5th fret (clever!!) 24 frets (personally I will use 29 or 30 to eliminate the need for a neck pup) Strings 9-11-16-26-36-46-60-84 Not overly enthousiastic about the thin body and the headstock. So with that settled it's time to look at the headstock. Ibanez on their RG-8 has this obese looking fat headstock, not my cup of tea. While some people made some better looking mock-ups. Together with FretFind programm a first mock-up should look something like this. I need to do some more fine tuning and start hunting down some single string bridge suppliers. Width of those suckers will determine the bridge spacing.
  20. Probably water-jet or laser cut. The black can be dyed black epoxy, at least that's my guess.......
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