criss

Thanx for the relpy will do

i want to do a headstock and it needs to be painted after the Mop is in . Do i mask the logo or do i just paint over it and scrape the paint later . Any tips would be a big help I ve done lots of fretboard inlays before so know how to inlay just never done any that is painted later Cheer Criss

Thanx for all the input fellows . WIll try contacting du pont and see what they can do . Thanx again Criss

Thanx Mark But all the du pont codes in oz don t match up to the U.S codes , so i have run into a wall at every du pont stockist in Oz . Cheers and thanx again Criss

Hi Was hopeing someone could spray some of there fender colours onto some paper or thin wood . Would send you out the money for postage and your time etc . Mainly want them so i can get them color matched in Australia , have been buying re ranch but can only get this sent via shipping and its takeing ages to get here . The more colors you can send the better , then i can keep these for future projects As i said i don t expect this for nothing , i can send the money via paypal . Cheers Criss Melbourne Australia

I think the feel of a neck is all subjective , one mans trash is anther mans treasure . Ive played and im sure other have too other people guitars and they don't like the feel . So if i buy a pre made fretboard and attach that to my guitar neck am i still truely building my guitar ? And should i start makeing my own pots , bridge , tuners etc to be a real builder . Hmm maybe i should start makeing my own strings too .

I put a pencil mark down the middle of the neck , that way you know not to sand there and expose the trussrod . If you need to take off a fair bit of wood just keep checking your measurments as you go , and once down to where you want to be add the line down the centre . Used a cheap rasp file from a $2 set of files so i guess its worth 50 cents . And also used cheap pack of $2 sand paper . I spent 4 hours ( not in one session ) shapeing the neck alone . I have only done a few necks , but if you take your time and measure etc etc its really not as hard as you think . If one man can do it , then you can . im not a expert and may not be the best necks on the planet , but i have no doubt you can easly make great necks if you take your time and ask questions etc . Same goes for inlay i was so scared by the whole deal , i put it off for ages . But after i did it i found it is not hard . Same thing applys , take your time and be patient . To me at first guitar building was full of voodoo , but its realy not as hard as i thought . Same applys im no expert but i can already make a very good guitar , not amazeing but still a very nice guitar . Im not trying re invent the wheel , take my time and up to now have had good results . Theres no reason you to can't build a nice guitar

I use the dremel to cut out my inlays . Ouick and easy . i won't bother with the saw again unless it was very intricate . i use spray adhesive to attach my pattern and used the dremel stone to do the final shapeing . In my view if your cutting out your average inlays , Shark fins , blocks , bowties , sculls etc , the dremel wins hands down . I can knock out a set in easy 1/4 the time it takes by saw . You do waste a little bit more MOP but its really not a issue as the waste is nt really that great . If you do use a dremel , wear goggles and a mask , MOP stinks when it gets hit hard with a dremel and there s lots of dust you don't want to breath in . And you gotta look after your eyes from the flying dust etc If you ve got a dremel give it a go , use the stone type wheels etc . Dead easy even for a newbie . Quicker , no busted blades and good results .

How much wood do you leave on the guitar top when you rout your cavitys ( toggle switch and for long post pots ) Im doing a flying v flat topped body is 37mm thick and need your input , i dont want to go to far with the rout . And do you drill your holes thru the guitar top before or after you rout . ? ANy tips would be great .

Guitarfetish has very cheap parts , but they are not junk . I ordered a set of his 59paf s , and they sound to my ear easy as good as semour duncan . $48 for a pair of paf s , exellent . Watch his sales on flebay , you can get some huge saveings . Buy in batchs is what i do , i got 2 string thru hardtails ( gold and black ) plus set of vintage pafs and a few other bits for $60 . he is also a great fellow , friendly and helpful .

Im building a Polka Randy rhoads V and ive put the double action truss rod in so you have access via the neck pickup cavity . My question is whats the best way to cover the top of the guitar truss rod channel that runs between the end of the finger board and the pickup cavity . The top of the truss rod allan nut is just below the guitar top and ends inbetween the end of the fret board and neck pickup cavity , im guessing i should use a thin bit of wood and glue it on top . ? How do i do this without glueing the rod , or should i do it another way . Any help would be a big help as im kinda stumped Thanx

http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/tips/eangle.htm If you already have your bridge this is a good way of double checking . Could be worth a look see . HTH

I use a product called enviro tec its a two part resin . Drys clear and rockhard , no bubble probs that ive ever had . And ive poured this stuff over a inch deep for model projects . What you can do if you do get bubbles once you ve poured your epoxy is blow on the top useing a drinking straw .Sit your straw just above the epoxy and lightly blow , you ll see the epoxy move a little and bubbles should go bye bye once they are exposed to air . This will kill any bubbles and you have control over the spot your blowing . ( just a light breath will do the trick , dont blow so hard to send your epoxy flying out of your rout . But your best bet is do a few tests on some junk wood first . Its very easy to do but test a few times . This should all work with epoxy , but get 30min drying so you have time to work with it . It should nt be bad re bubbles if you mix it correctly . ie dont go crazy whipping it up to much . Worst case is lay it down in two or 3 thin layers , the straw blowing will easly take care of any bubble in the thin layers . Lay one layer down , clear any bubble with your straw let it dry then repeat . Should be a easy job , i cant see why you could nt do it in one pour . Pour half the rout deal with bubbles then pour the rest . Job done no bubbles should be the result , you don't need vacum machinces for small jobs like this . A 2cent straw and some time should be all you need . Do a few tests and get back and let us know how it worked out . HTH

I would take my time and look around for a good gibson les paul . The Prs is a good unit , but in my humble view a great les paul will wipe the floor of a Prs everytime . I ve tryed quite a few Prs when my brother was going to buy one , we took along my 83 les paul custom to A/B with the Prs . And without a doubt the les paul was much better for the sound my brother wanted . Ask yourself Why do Prs want to copy the les paul ? Because even they know there is something about the les paul combo of wood ,shape etc that you just can,t produce unless you copy it almost exact . But after saying all that your best bet is keep playing every and any Prs and les paul you can get your hands on , and you 'll know when you come across that special guitar . Secret is take your time and play lots , you ll soon know when your playing a dog or that special keeper . There are dog Prs and les pauls out there and many gems too . Its your guitar so buy what inspires you , and something that is special to you .

Thanx for all the kind words people Bytrix There realy is nt much to it . step one is to cut out your inlay pictures and mount them onto your MOP . I used spray on adhesive , its cheap and wont swell your paper . I tryed to use white glue at first but that swlls your paper . Now you can cut out your mop with a jewelers saw ( takes ages ) So i used my dremel with a fine cut off wheel ( make sure you wear goggles the wheels shatter sometimes and go everywhere ) , you don,t have to cut them exact at first . Stay out side the final shape , then use your dremel grinding stone to get the final shape . Its very quick , you can knock them all out in around 2 hours . It realy is very easy . Its just like dot to dot stay in the lines type of thing . Once you have your bow ties ready , i put all the dots into my board . Rule down the centre , then rule from one side of your board to the other . This will make a cross , the centre is where you punch your board for drilling . ( rember to work out how wide you want your board to be first ) Use a bradpoint drillbit , you can put the point right on your punch mark . Once again all very easy , take your time . And put some tape on to your drill bit once you have got how deep you need to drill for the dots . ( test first on the end of your board you wont need , drop a dot in and see how deep it is ect ) Drill your dots now I used more spray mont on the back of the bowties ( cut the excess paper off ), then i superglued the bowties to the board . The paper you glued to the back of the bowtie will help when you need to remove the bowties , i did't crack one as its only the paper that is glueing to the board with the bowtie mounted ontop . ( kinda a version of setchs exellet tape inlay method ) Trace around the bowtie with a scapel , take your time you don't have to go real deep just kinda scrape around them . When youv finished traceing around all the inlays you just use a scapel to slide under the bowtie and they came off easy . Or you can just push hard on the fat end of the inlay and they pop off fairly easy . Rub some chalk onto the board and rub it with your thumb , you ll see how it fills the scapel marks you did around the bowties . Now grab your dremel and set the debth to a little under your mop thinkness and start to rout out our shapes . Take your time and stay close to your chalk marks . i brought the dremel router base for all this work . easy stuff again , just like drawing inside the lines but your useing a dremel I use superglue to glue in the inlays and used a radius block to sand everthing flush . It realy is much easyier than i thought . And you can do a few tests on the end of your board to get some confidence first . Supplys where brougt from perry ( see list ) 1 ounce of MOP ( prob get close to 2 sets from this ) jewelers saw ( Did nt use this much at all ) Mop Dots Router bit ( i think its stewmac 5151 carbide bit ) Ebony Fretboard Pre slotted 25''scale radius 12 '' Radius Block 12 '' Other bits i got localy Dremel Stand super glue Scapel sandpaper If you need any help just say the word . Im not a expert but im fairly confident now . Hope this is of help You can do it too people Now go be one with the MOP and your fret board